LocostUSA.com

Finished installing the radiator today. I found that the radiator I picked was about 1" to high so I trimmed the aluminum pegs from the underside (don't know what they're for but I didn't cut them all the way off, just trimmed it up). Fits perfectly now.
See pics attached.
I don't think I'll be working on mounting the radiator fan yet. I've got a bug to finish the electrical and my dash and get the car started again before proceeding with the fan.
Things left to do before driving it down the street and back (no skin, no lights, no dash, no fenders):
*Brake lines
*Emergency Brake line/mount
*Driveshaft enclosure
*Dash
*Electrical
*Connect radiator
*Replace hoses
*Mount battery
*Attach a few more screws to engine mounts
*Secure nose cone
*Buy or make pedal box and install
*Connect clutch, throttle cable, and brakes to pedal box
*Add additional support to steering wheel
*Redo temporary exhaust/muffler template

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I like your radiator grille design. Reminds me of the look you get when you tell a 2nd grader to "smile". Seriously, for some reason, the look is good and should be explored. Definitely not expected in a 7 kind of car.

Bill

Dwight,
I believe the posts on the bottom are to sit into a rubber bushing and the one on top is similar. The honda's have a small metal mount for the top that slides over the top post and then bolts to the chassis. That way the radiator isn't firmly mounted and shaken to bits.
http://www.amazon.com/Mishimoto-MMRS-ARD-Aluminum-Radiator-Integra/dp/B004MEGXME/ref=sr_1_19?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1427477919&sr=1-19&keywords=honda+civic+radiator

Don't quote me on this one but i think thats how it goes. I noticed that most people end up tilting the radiator back a bit to make it fit.

gavin

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

Thanks for the info guys.
It's definitely not a finished product. I plan on putting some thick mesh just on the inside of the nose cone to (hopefully) block the unsightly radiator without diminishing air flow much. That should help the whole 2nd grader smile look.

Good to know about the posts on the top and bottom of the radiator, Mnot. I used the springs that came in the kit which act as spacers & vibration reducer....I hope that's adequate to keep the radiator from "shaken to bits".
I did tilt the radiator slightly back, but with the info on what the aluminium pegs are I'm glad that I didn't tilt it any further just grinded off the pegs - as I imagine tilting it too far back would reduce air flow through the radiator

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The more I think about it the more I'm disagreeing with the whole "Definitely not expected in a 7 kind of car" that bblue said.
In fact I think it's very similar to the picture shown on page 14 of this post, specifically the image located at: download/file.php?id=41691&t=1
The width appears to be similar, maybe not the height.

But again, I really think the mesh will hide the radiator a bit and keep it safe from rocks.

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Dwight,

I think your choice in radiator is a good one. The mounting lugs are for the stock set up which is been around a loooong time.

Hate to bring things up after the fact but a Civic fan bolts right up to the rad.

Coax me a little and I'll send you photos of how I handled it. Don't want to hijack your thread with bunch of photos.

Good looking build.

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Larry in Seattle

Thanks Benny for the compliments, I plan on mounting the fan right up against the radiator on the back side (a pull instead of a push). I found that the fan that came free (although a descent 10 blade fan) does touch the radiator as it spins, so I plan on leaving a .10" - .25" gap between the fan and radiator. I found that the fan should line up (almost perfectly) with the front of the chassis. I plan to use a descent gauge steel and run a plank from the chassis to three or four of the mounting points. I think that should be sufficient to mount a very light weight fan.

Today I worked on reinforcing the steering column so that the steering wheel could bare more weight (driver getting in and out). I also started looking at the fuel injection wiring harness which got burnt slightly during some testing and finished mounting the drive and passenger seats. I also replaced the turn signal assembly (broken during disassembly) and mounted the steering wheel straight on with the alignment of the tires....adding my new $15 Lotus removable steering wheel horn to it. Looks good, I'll add some pics later.

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Been awhile since I did anything on my Locost. But Memorial weekend gave me a renewed vigor. Ran the speedometer cable from the transmission to the back of the gauges - and yes, I have the same problem as everyone else with the line near the connector for the transmission - the cable just doesn't bend enough and if I were to force it then it'd probably wouldn't do it's job. Created a template for the driver and passenger side drive shaft cover....blew the dust off of everything, sat in the drivers seat and went vrooom vrooom a few times....beer in hand...so yes, it's drinking and driving cuz the keys were in the ignition....but figured I'd get away with it cuz the car was in the garage...door closed...engine won't start...just cranks. Speaking of starting the engine....I filled up the tank a bit and found that the fuel pump was dead...it's getting power but making no noise so I ordered a new one off of rockauto for $28 with shipping. This one is an external-tank pump meaning I had to clean out stuff for the internal-tank pump, no biggie. I'm expecting the pump to arrive by the 10th, I'm hoping that was what was causing the engine to only run for a few seconds....well I mean the only thing. Started looking at the windshield that I bought from Jack and it looks like a pretty easy task 'cept I've misplaced one of the mounting brackets for it (driver's side), so I'll need to rummage through some boxes to find it. I think I have done enough research for running the emergency brake line, I'm thinking of placing the emergency brake in the left side of the passenger's leg area - I saw this on a...I think...Robin Hood Replica on ebay or a Birkin...can't remember - but thought that it might work for mine.

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After a bit of tinkering I changed my mind about the emergency brake. To mount the Miata emergency brake handle I created a "H" pattern out of 1" sq steel tubing. If I mount the emergency brake handle on the drivers side the mounting bracket will be flush to the frame of the drive shaft. Having used the larger frame for the locost, I found that I do infact have plenty of leg room. The emergency brake will be on the side of my right knee when my feet are touching the pedals. I'll be getting a replacement "front" emergency brake cable (the part that links to the handle) tomorrow morning, my plan is to run the cable line through the 1" sq steel tubing at the lower/driver side of the drive shaft tunnel and out to underneath the trunk. Phone was dead or I would've took some pics...maybe tomorrow. Also created a template for the nose cone grill, found customcargrills.com but didn't find any grills in the scrap pile that I liked and correct size, I do like this grill http://www.customcargrills.com/proddeta ... _Rectangle as it should hide the innards (radiator). And it's a similar though more dense pattern to the Prisoner's Lotus 7, but I'm not planning on doing a replica to that.

I'm thinking of running the rear brake lines through the lower drive shaft tubes just like the emergency brake line, I think it'll protect it a bit more. I had ran the fuel lines through the top tubes and it seems to be working great - though I haven't been able to drive it yet...still need a few more things.

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Are you saying the brake handle will be located on the side of the tunnel or on the top.

You REALLY don't want it on the driver's side of the tunnel anywhere it can touch your leg under hard cornering or bumps.

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

^ Agreed. I put mine on top of the tunnel towards the passenger side, but not over the edge. Passenger comfort is a secondary consideration. I'd also reconsider running brake and fuel lines through the frame tubes. The reason for that would be possible wear from vibration and not being able to check it until there's a failure.
Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172

yup, mounting the emergency brake handle on the side, not the top of the tunnel. I plan on checking the wear of the gas line every few months to see but given the thickness I don't foresee an issue, it was an easy pull through so I seriously doubt issues with wear during vibration, but there's always a chance - agreed.

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FYI- This isn't going to be a "racer" it's more of a Sunday drive....and I don't see bumps hurting my leg...hard corners won't be an issue.

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Having them (andy tubing) where you cannot inspect them is one issue, my concern from working with pneumatic and steam lines for the process industry, is did you at least use bulkhead fittings where it went through the frame, or is it an open tube where you came through? If it is not an open tube, you really want to use some sort of bulkhead fitting.

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Dismantalus, Fabricatus, Assemblus.....
Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!

I think I've opted out of running emergency brake cables through the tunnel tubing, Instead, I'll be running it under the drive shaft, I created a mounting bracket for the front parking brake cable to attach to the rear, just need to buy the rear ones now. I'll probably do that after I receive my fuel pump. I also started working on the firewall for the driver-side feet area...about done with that but I'll need to pick up some more metal before I can do the passenger side too. Also finished attaching the rear cage, it was mostly welded on but touched it up and painted it.

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