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Purchased some steel braided cable along with most of the adapters I'll need. Finally completed a full brake job on all 4 tires...the back ones were the hardest as you can't just compress the piston - you need to remove a bolt (one next to the emergency brake arm) and under that bolt a allen wrench screw needs to be unscrewed which collapses the piston...this took me a little research to figure out. The pedal box I purchased is slightly too wide for the foot well (maybe an inch), so some modification to the pedal box' mounting bracket might be needed...still thinking that one through.

I also need to do some research on the pedal box as the throttle pedal came with two or three different methods to attach the throttle cable and I have no clue how to use/connect them...pics included.

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So, like most everyone else on here who uses a miata as a donor, I'm running into the issue of the exhaust flange coming too close to the firewall & MC's. I found a different option than making a custom exhaust manifold.... I found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-STEEL-T25-T28-TURBO-MANIFOLD-EXHAUST-FOR-MAZDA-MIATA-MX5-NA-NB-BP-1-8L-/172443067263?fits=Year%3A1995%7CModel%3AMiata&hash=item282668637f:g:CckAAOSw4GVYTyl-&vxp=mtr

Although mine is NOT turbo, I'm thinking that I could use the turbo manifold in place of the stock and fabricate everything else to the muffler. Flyin' miata also has one that's even smaller that is part of their turbo kit, don't know if I could get them to sell me JUST the manifold. Any thoughts out there?

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As-per other topic, can I recommend you don't buy that? The manifold looks Blinky, but the stainless steel is of terrible quality, and I would bet money that it will crack; as I have seen it many times (having replaced them for clients cars). Stainless is, at the best of times, prone to crack due to its inherent properties, but the steel used for these manifolds is just junk; I am sorry to say!

I don't know what "Blinky" means, maybe you meant "dinky"...as in small?
I figure if Flyin' Miata (a big name in after market miata gear) is making/selling it, then it's probably one of the best if not the best exhaust manifold for Turbo'd engine out there.

I do agree with you on the stainless steel/ebay option as I've seen other postings of how ebay manifolds are crap.

Sorry to say that I'm pretty set on the Flyin Miata manifold idea unless someone tells me that it'll break the engine or cause a huge loss in power. I just don't have any other cost-effective alternatives.

Please feel free to chime in with any other ideas you might have, I'm VERY open to feedback.

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Came up with an idea see other post here:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=18679&p=226701#p226701

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Well...since I'm waiting on my exhaust tubing and new muffler to arrive I decided to work on the dash - see pic.
I don't think it's the final version or color. It's just vinyl wrapped marine board, nothing fancy, but it'll do for now until I decide to come back to that.

Also, over the past few days I've been working on brake line placement, acquiring brake parts, replacing brake pads on all 4 sides, modifying pedal box to fit my foot well (just a few clips to cut off and weld in a different place), and creating the driver firewall.

OH! And I almost forgot, I think I've decided to mount the brake bias dial that came with the pedal box on the dash instead of free floating - I've seen both styles and very much prefer the mounted one. Decided to try that seal a leak stuff on the TV commercials as a different option to a floor mat, I sprayed the drivers side first, I was going to test it first but completely forgot to and just used it. It says it needs 24 hrs to dry, so I'll let all of you know my thoughts on it.

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You know, I bought some of the stuff off TV too. It's called "something-Flex", but I forget what the something is [LOL]. I wanted to have the black stuff you can cast, so I can make various rubber parts as I go along. I saved all the rubber grommets used around things passing through metal parts from my donor. However, many are used around large plugs, and I don't know how many of those I'll actually use on the Locost. I may need to make some grommets of my own.

You know, as far as the floor boards go, I read something a couple of years ago that has influenced my thinking. It was a remark from a UK website, where the guys were complaining about how their undertrays were getting all saggy and bumpy from stepping onto the bare metal as they entered the car. I'm going to figure out some kind of light, but rigid piece to set in that area between the chassis rails (maybe kevlar or carbon fiber layered over a honeycomb of some type?) to distribute weight and avoid that problem, I hope. I figure that black rubber stuff would be useful as a friction layer on top to prevent slipping.

Anyway, you're making good progress and things are looking nice.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

That's exactly what I figured, something like a floor mat, easy clean up, maybe a sound dampener, and a non-slip surface...for some reason I see myself climbing into it on a rainy/humid day (like we ever have those in Arizona) and I slip on the slick steel surface and biff my face on the windshield or get the shifter in my @$$....just a phobia I suppose. I checked it before going to work this morning, it's dry to the touch and feels just like molded/fitted floor mat. I'm going to go home and do a sneaker test (get in with sneakers and do the "twist" dance to see how well it holds up)...very scientific and should not be done by amateurs

It did end up having a slight texture to the finished result, I'll try to get it on film and upload it tonight. If it doesn't go well then I'm out $14 plus some sand paper...oh well.

Trying to figure out what to work on tonight...something I've got all the tools and material for....hmm.
Looks like I can work on:
1. Mounting and connecting the coolant reservoir
2. Double check all the nuts and bolts for the front suspension
3. Install front brake pad kit (some springs were wore out, just need to put the new ones on)
4. Clean up the exhaust manifold a bit before getting the new pieces
5. Work some more on the emergency brake mount and cabling.
6. Wrap up and hide more of the wiring harness
7. Mount the diagnostic box, Bias adjustment cable, etc.

Well, at least I have something to work on...

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No Pics yet, been working on the exhaust manifold. I've cut approximately where my last pic shows and affixed a bend which takes the pipe to the side of the vehicle, should be just enough room for the master cylinders though I am thinking of moving the reservoirs and just adding some steel braiding between the reservoir and the cylinders. I think I'm going to go with just a flat black pain job on the car....the frame is already that color and so is the roll bar and the driver/pass floor. I'll need to change out the dash to be a black cover instead of the green. I'm hoping to have almost all of the exhaust system finished within the next few days so that I can start focusing again on the pedal box/connecting it, and placing the firewall for the driver. As soon as that's done, install the ebrake, fix the oil drain plug leak, add some transmission fluid and fix the piece of cooling tubing that bends and compresses....I should be able to drive it around the block. And I'll definitely have pics/video of that.

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Lonnie, a piece of 1/2" plywood cut to fit would work to spread the "step" load. Seal, paint and attach as you like. Easily replaceable and locost. I once had a 911 with a (factory) piece of plywood under the passenger-side footwell carpeting, so its been done before.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

I'll have a pic soon but the current project is only half done. I've cleaned, painted and cured the exhaust manifold, and started working on wrapping the manifold with DEI Exhaust wrap, but instead of the expensive stainless steel straps they want you to buy/use I purchased some O ring clamps (I think they're more durable, cheaper, and easier to put on/off). So, the idea is that the manifold and part of the exhaust will be all one welded piece and the manifold flange will be set directly on the side of the vehicle, so easy on/off of the rest of the exhaust pipe and muffler. You'd figure that a large manifold like that would be too big to get in/out easily, but it's just as easy as the OEM size. I decided to wrap the entire manifold to decrease engine bay heat, though I'm still thinking of relocating the master/slave cylinder reservoirs to help minimize the heat transfer to the brake fluid. I really can't work on anything other than the exhaust right now because the next step is to hook-up and mount the pedal box for my first test drive....It feels so close and yet very far away.

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Well, finished welding/painting the new exhaust system...everything from the exhaust manifold to the new muffler.
I was curing the paint on Saturday and the car had been working w/o issue - 16min into the curing process and the engine just quit....tried restarting alternator is working, battery is good, fuel is in the clear fuel filter, but engine won't turnover.

The only thing I did to it was add the exhaust/muffler. I guess I'll start checking everything this week, forgot to grab a pic...expect one soon.

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Could the exhaust be blocked somehow?

Go back to the basics. Is there fuel on the plugs? Does the plug spark?

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

It must be language.....

The engine (starter) won't turn the engine. Or the engine doesn't fire, cough, backfire, etc., just spins (turns over)?

How do you know the alternator is working if the engine isn't running?

How did the engine quit? Did it just stop like the key was shut off? or did it start to stumble and then stopped?

BTW, if you check the plugs, and they are wet, sniff them for the smell of gas. it could be water!

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766