small ford parts are readily available but beware.
blocks aftermarket aluminum blocks are light but some vendors don't make them and i have seen some, both ford and chevy that were poorly machined with in one instance an oilway drilled too deep causing an internal oil leak.
these aluminum blocks are also fragile, like they bend in a crash or distort if it has been used before and the engine suffered a blow up.
iron blocks, old "seasoned" blocks are now just about useless as they have a two piece rear main seal and cranks are totally different to a late 302,
beware of cracks in the valley which can cause the block to split down the middle.
late blocks made in mexico are the best due to the high nickel content in the iron and a one piece rear main seal.
302 blocks in general should not be bored larger than .030, as porosity will probably occure.
oil return passages in the ends of the block should be opened up and all the flashing in the block should be removed.
cranks, i would suggest a stroker crank but beware of the manufacturer,
late 302 cranks are heavier than early cranks but stroker cranks are about the same weight as stock late crank, do not go overboard on stroke as the oil control ring get into the wrist pin area very quickly.
rod ratio is also a consideration when the oil ring is so close to the wrist pin.
there are two basic pan designs, front and rear pan, on the rear pan the oil pump may require the front of the pan to be modified for clearence and the pump body and block may require clearencing for the rod caps, i recommend usind a rod with bolts not nuts and bolts
use only a quality timing chain and sprockets as some of the cheap ones are all over the place.
again, block inspection and prep are key to a strong small ford and paint the inside of the block with glyptol electric motor paint
head bolts are now only available in "torque to yeald" type so should be used only once, these bolts are designed with a built in washer specifically for fitting 351 style heads on a 302, all aluminum heads have the 351 bolt hole size but hardened washers should always be used on aluminum heads.
the use of this bolt and washer combo will probably interfere with the header flanges on most headers so must be clearenced on the flange.
compression hight is also a factor to be considered, although various thickness gaskets are available, the standard gasket included in a felpro kit compresses to .040.
note with a stroker and a torqey cam, dynamic compression rises very quickly so beware, you won't be able to get any ignition advance without detonation.
one of the main cap bolts must have a stud sticking out of it for the oil pickup.
note that in the block, only 302 parts can be fitted, no 351 parts.
a crank girdle is available for additional support of the main caps but machining is required, a valley support brace kit is available to strengthen this area.
a roller cam and kit is almost a given these days so suitable valve springs should be used, very late factory blocks all have roller cams.
intake and head choice is so wide that i will not recommend anything save that of quench hight should be as close to .040 as possible so check, check and check again!!!! and don't let the static compression rise above 9.5 - 1 for a street engine or our old friend detonation will come a knocking really quickly.
quality must be checked with aftermarket heads that all the bolt holes are good, my edlebrocks were piss poor, and i have seen darts with the pushrod holes in the wrong place.
i would suggest a factory fuel injection system but only one with a MAF sensor or you will not get it to run right with aftermarket parts.
use a factory computer EEC-V with a 104 pin connector as there are many tuners software for this.
flywheels or flexplates, there are two sizes, and you can't get a big one in a small bellhousing 164 tooth and 157 tooth and check the bolt pattern on the crank is compatable.
also the flywheel weight bias is different so go for 50 oz. on a stock style and weighted crank, make sure that the balancer on the front is weighted correctly too, and is four bolt style or you won't get any pulleys for it.
valve gear is a matter of choice but must be checked for correct geometry and pushrod length is somewhat critical.
enough speed secrets for now.
_________________ this story shall the good man teach his son, and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by, from this day to the end of the world. but we in it shall be remembered.
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