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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 8, 2018, 10:30 am 
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Marcus, another one that I use is http://car-part.com/. Good luck! Good hunting!!!

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PostPosted: March 8, 2018, 4:16 pm 
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Thanks Mike, I remembered that last night. There are some yards a 45 minute drive from here that have one, so I'll take a look this weekend.

We did get a minor delay with New England weather last night. Trees and power lines down everywhere, but now my thermometer is reading 75 degreess. :shock:


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PostPosted: March 8, 2018, 4:41 pm 
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horizenjob wrote:
We did get a minor delay with New England weather last night. Trees and power lines down everywhere, but now my thermometer is reading 75 degreess. :shock:
Holy Shite, Brother, that looks C-C-C-C-CCCOLD!!! I wore long pants yesterday, but that's because I was at a job site. You realllllly need to come visit us. (And then in June when it's 118 temp and humidity, I'll come see you!)

:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: March 8, 2018, 5:35 pm 
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In spite of the damage and inconvenience of that storm (and the one last week) it sure looks pretty and peaceful now. You may want to wait a bit longer to visit those "recycle yards", when the yards dry up a bit. :cheers:

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PostPosted: March 20, 2018, 3:33 pm 
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Chuck, yes it's looking that way. After the that picture you can see what happened next in the picture below and we are supposed to get another one tomorrow. At least this time of year it's likely to go quickly after this next one. The sun really is warm some days now.

So I've been looking up a lot of stuff on RockAuto trying to find dimensions on hubs and CV half shafts. It seems I have got myself banned now because I haven't been able to load the site since early last week! :rofl: I wonder what trip wire I crossed. Last thing I figured out was that the Ford Sierra used halfshafts from different generation VW microbus on each side. That's a plus for those differentials, you get access to a bunch of different halfshafts and lots of aftermarket parts.

I found adapters to go from Ford 8.8 differential to Porsche 930 style halfshafts but they are $275 a piece.

The problem I am trying to solve now is going from the Explorer 8.8 diff to the T'bird spindles. The Explorer diff takes larger CV shaft seals than the T'bird axles. I am not sure about the bearings yet. So I was going to order the Tbird half shafts and measure them. Another approach would be to get the modern Mustang diff, which appears to be yet another permutation. Sigh... If anyone knows anything helpful here, please step up! :) I'm getting tired of this...


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PostPosted: March 21, 2018, 5:49 pm 
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Marcus,

At least you folks in Massachusetts aren't immobilized in all ways with snow. You've got a walking path going already. I see Washington D.C. shut down today because there were a few inches of snow. It looks like about 2"-3" to me. Hell, even people in Southern California can handle that much snow. D.C. wimps!

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: April 1, 2018, 9:36 am 
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Weather Update: Easter at Marcus's house...
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PostPosted: April 13, 2018, 3:05 pm 
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Feels like its January 86th around here too. Got about 3" of the white stuff this morning and calling for more on Monday.

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PostPosted: April 13, 2018, 5:37 pm 
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Trochu wrote:
Feels like its January 86th around here too. Got about 3" of the white stuff this morning and calling for more on Monday.



Yeah that quickie thunderstorm just knocked our temps down from 85 to 75 - for about 5 minutes. I feel your pain.

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PostPosted: April 13, 2018, 5:48 pm 
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carguy123 wrote:
Trochu wrote:
Feels like its January 86th around here too. Got about 3" of the white stuff this morning and calling for more on Monday.


Yeah that quickie thunderstorm just knocked our temps down from 85 to 75 - for about 5 minutes. I feel your pain.


Its a pain I willingly endure. You see, I don't like it when it goes above 86F (30C).

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PostPosted: April 25, 2018, 10:53 am 
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Marcus, how are you going to do the rear fenders? Cut holes for the trailing arms to go through, or use cycle fenders?


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PostPosted: April 25, 2018, 3:19 pm 
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TRX wrote:
Marcus, how are you going to do the rear fenders? Cut holes for the trailing arms to go through, or use cycle fenders?
I can't speak for Marcus... and it would sound funny if I tried... But I would vote for holes in the fenders.
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And, like in the picture, the lower trailing arms might be low enough to clear the fenders.

Just my .02, IMHO, YMMV, Beauty is in the eye of the beer-holder, etc, etc.
:cheers:
JDK

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"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: April 25, 2018, 10:05 pm 
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I had planned on tucking the arms in to keep the track as narrow as possible, then finally realized that moving them outboard and lengthening them would only require a slightly wider track since the wheel has to have camber clearance anyway.


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PostPosted: April 26, 2018, 11:09 am 
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Hi TRiX! Are you thinking for IRS or a solid axle?

On Car9 the rear wheels are pretty far forward, probably a couple of inches more than a Locost. So there is less room for the trailing arms and I thought longer arms would help with geometry. That might be especially true for a solid rear axle.

There are a few ideas about how to deal with the rear fenders. A slot for the upper arm is easiest. I'm hoping for Jack McCornack's Lalo bodywork for my car which would hide the issue and look good, I think. Another idea for Seven style was to put the side sheetmetal around the outside of the arms. That was if the state inspection people thought they should be covered. I don't think that would be any harder than just making the flange at the top and bottom of the side metal an extra 1.5" wide or so. Might make a resting place for your elbow too. At one point we measured where Jack's elbow was when he was sitting in the car.

I was also considering cycle fenders for the rear. I had a picture of a seven style roadster by some prestigious UK company that looked quite nice that way, but not sure if I can find it quickly. It was curvier than a Seven, but basically the same idea.

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PostPosted: April 27, 2018, 12:18 pm 
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TRX wrote:
Marcus, how are you going to do the rear fenders? Cut holes for the trailing arms to go through, or use cycle fenders?

TRX, very timely. I’m pondering the same question on my Car9 build. Here’s a side view showing the trailing arms, my 17” x 9” wheels and an outline on the cardboard of the tire OD and fender line. The lower front edge of the fender will be several inches below the lower trailing arm.
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P4264712-1.jpg
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Looking from the front, there is good clearance from the wheel rim to the trailing arms (1.25”) and the cockpit sides (3”). The width of the 245/40x17 tires will be 9.7”, a bit less than the 10” outside to outside width of the rim, so the rim sides make good reference points for tire clearance.
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As the boot tapers aft, the rear edge of the tire would be about 4.5” from the boot side.
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P4264713-1.jpg
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If fenders (with trailing arm cutouts) were attached to flanges on the body, this would make for very wide fenders.

Which makes me intrigued with the cycle fender approach, where tire-width fenders would be hung from pegs extended out from the chassis. But the pegs would be from 13 to 15.5” long with the fender load cantilevered out. Butt-welded pegs (with gussets?) would probably not survive someone sitting on a fender (I love car shows :ack: )

Maybe there is a better mounting solution. I would love to see pictures of other rear cycle fender mounts.

If I can figure out how to chassis-mount cycle fenders, I think it would look cool. And it would probably help keep my boot from looking fat, too.

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