LocostUSA.com

Please include a link to the discussion that you mentioned, i would like to read it. I am not sure if you noticed that i have a tube going from the lower part of the chassis to the bottom of the coilover mount. The round tube would be in tension when the car is on the ground resisting the torque of the coilover on the mount.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

I see the triangulating piece now.
That's much better but still not a HUGE fan of it welded out from the body like that. (personally).

this thread. viewtopic.php?f=38&t=17408

basically, the bracket with much much less overhang twisted off either by fatigue (what I and others thing) or from force of hitting a pothole on track (what the owner thinks). The welds failed in the weld affect area and tore.

welds are GREAT in shear but suck in moment.

That was a terrible accident. 1 bad thing after another.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

I did some homework and some trial and error. Without the round tube from the bottom, when i put the car on its own feet, the shock mount flexed 7.8mm which is much more than I expected. I can see how it would fatigue over time and cause a catastrophic failure! The calculation that I did for adding the round tube at the bottom is below which shows that the tube should be sufficient as it is assuming good welding (cough: "Briggs" :cough)


Using the 1/2" tube as I have it now is enough but I am considering one of two options:
1. Simply use a bigger tube such as the 1" x .120" that i am using for the control arms which has the tensile strength of 26,540 lbs
2. Use 2 small diameter tubes in a triangular orientation both coming from the bottom chassis rail near both control arm mounts, meeting on the shock mount either at the bottom or on the sides.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

Thanks for reminding me of what I need to review for my PE exam this fall...

Well time in the garage is scarce as expected but it exists. it took me a week to make these new front LCA's. not because they are all that difficult tom make but i was only able to steal 5 min here and there, running out to get the tooling setup, then change a diaper, then cut the tubes, and feed the older kids, bend the tubes, etc. but I'm getting there.

I still need to trim the lower part of the legs where the rod ends go but you can tell that they aren't the same length. The new LCA's will have a brace/plate at the LBJ to contain the shock mount and a small tubular brace between the rod ends and the bends to brace it near the chassis attachment point.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

It's been a week and a half and all I have gotten accomplished is that I cut the legs and tacked everything together. And added a 1/2" brace similar to the Caterhams. It doesn't have the shock mount but is noticeably lighter than the first set of FLCA's

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

Looking good!! Let me know when you get them finished. I'll pick them up and weld then out for you.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Not much garage time since the new boss arrived.... but i have gotten the front end almost back together. LCA's are now rod ends and i remade the upper ball joint holder by cutting off the threaded stud and welding the tube to it. I did this because the original setup gave little room for adjustment once the coil-over was in place. Now I have tons of room I had to sacrifice ease of adjustability for alignment but it is worth it.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

everything is tacked together and I think it will work out well. I changed the diagonal support for the shock mount to a 3/4" x 0.120 wall tube (first picture). I can get to about 7* of caster with the rear upper link at 90* from the chassis (second picture). I am contemplating ways to move the upper link's mount rearward to get a better/stronger angle. Ideas or opinions?

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

Before you get to far down the road, you may want to mock up your brake hose fitting(s) at full lock. I looks like a tight fit even using a banjo bolt. Dave W

Thanks for the suggestion Dave, I ran out to the garage thinking "oh $hit, I didn't think of that" but I am okay. The hose goes in to the bottom at a slight downward angle and Toyota used a short hard line from the caliper up to the top of the caliper and. Then the flex hose connects to that short hard line. I don't know if I will use that setup because my M/C is on the floor.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

I had the same issue, could not bend a hard brake line in a real tight 110* bend.
I used a Summit Racing banjo on my Toyota brakes. The bolt is 10 x 1mm and they have a bango with a metric ID and a male fitting for a AN-3, so you fit SS braided lines. You may have to also get a fitting to go from AN to metric if using the Toyota hard line metric Tee fitting(s).
If you go the SS braided AN brake line route check out [inline] on E-bay for some nice lines with chrome Fittings.
Dave W

Gavin finished getting his control arms Fab'd up and gave me permission to weld them out. I just finished the lowers, I still have 1 more upper to do. He's waiting on me to have a roller, better get to it!









These are before and after wire brush. Gets rid of all the color.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Oh, MAN, I wish I could TIG!! Equipment cost is holding me back from trying, though

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Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/