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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 25, 2015, 5:17 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
She isn't on the ground yet because my funding hasn't allowed for the purchase of the GAZ shocks but in theory it could stand on its own. all wheel are bolted on, no photoshop here :D

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PostPosted: April 7, 2015, 10:16 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
After mounting my newly refurbished spindles from IRS Machining, I decided to remake my spindle mounts/br@cketz. I figured out that a 3x3 tube with a 3/16" wall thickness is exactly the right ID to fit the upper bushing and 3x3 with a 1/4" wall thickness fits the bottoms. I made a test bracket for the upper tonight with a weldable nut from Grainger ($5 for a bag of 25) and I am really happy with the result.


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PostPosted: April 8, 2015, 6:10 am 
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Looking good Gavin. How long did it take you to cut and drill those? I don't think you will ever need to worry about those bending or breaking on you.

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PostPosted: April 8, 2015, 9:21 am 
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Briggs, it took more time to cut the front side off then it did to drill all 3 holes with the handy HF stepped bit. I am amazed at how well those bits work especially since they are only $10 for a pack of 3 sizes. I agree, they won't break on me and to think that the bottoms are 1/16" thicker. My worry is that the 1/4" wont bend enough to clamp down on the bushing tube. I will try on of the 1/4" tonight and post my findings.

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PostPosted: April 8, 2015, 6:58 pm 
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Like you said, that's where the spacers come in handy.

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PostPosted: April 8, 2015, 10:42 pm 
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i scored another positive day in the garage today. I used the 3x3 1/4" for the bottom and it looks like it will work just fine. It is really thicker than it needs to be by a long shot but it is easy, uniform, and strong. I think i will use a thin spacer so the bracket won't have to deform much at all.
Attachment:
IMG_2038.JPG


I also created a mock shock to test my original design... okay okay, my hopeful design. And, it looks like we are in good shape. The vinyl tube is 2.5" OD the same as the GAZ shock spring. at ride height, I have 17" from the top of the LCA to the top of the rear bulk head. The mock shock is 90 degrees from the side and leans backward 7*.
Attachment:
IMG_2039.JPG

Attachment:
IMG_2040.JPG


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PostPosted: April 10, 2015, 4:01 pm 
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Looking good. The rear shock area looks pretty tight, but looks like you'll have enough room to make it work.

Edit: LCA mounting looks spot on.

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PostPosted: April 13, 2015, 10:52 pm 
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I have been all over the place on the build lately, limited mostly by time but also I have had to find quiet tasks when the kids are sleeping. Today i decided to take a stab at the headers which have really intimidated me. I made this with all 45* bends and i think i have the tubes reasonably close together for the collector although adding a few inches after this point might help get the tubes closer together but it is hard to be sure with the extra thickness of the bends. The lengths aren't the same but close'ish and it is laid out to utilize the pulse order in a clockwise direction (1,3,4,2). I think it should support up to 500 bhp.... until it melts


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PostPosted: April 14, 2015, 6:11 pm 
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That's a great mock-up idea. It's not steel, but that's a good thing! It will at least give you a qualitative idea of how a configuration will look and work. Nice going.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: April 15, 2015, 7:31 am 
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We are Slotus!
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Dang, now all the cool kids will be getting PVC headers too... I'm left out, again... Shucks... :rofl:

Good idea, good way to design your headers!
:cheers:
JDK

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
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PostPosted: April 15, 2015, 8:35 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
To help others, i used 1-1/4 such 40 tube and a 1x4 for the flange. i cut 2 reliefs on the top of the tube so i could force it into the wooden flange and it fits nice and tight. I put duct tape on the back of the flange to keep the PVC particles from getting into the cylinders. 1-1/2" has more choices of elbow degrees.

I measured each primary and i need to make the #4 a bit longer to get them all within 4" between the longest and the shortest. I am not creative enough to make them all exactly the same length but i read somewhere that <4" is a good target, 4-8 is common among "off the shelf", and >8 is total rubbish. I don't know how important it is to put them in a firing sequence 1-3-4-2 in my case.

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PostPosted: April 15, 2015, 9:08 pm 
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Firing sequence is good, keeps things smooth. I guess if you are going to a 4 to 1 collector it doesn't much matter anyway. It would be different if you were building a 4-2-1 kind of header.

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PostPosted: April 19, 2015, 1:39 am 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Shoot me a text in the morning if you plan on working on the car Sunday. I'll swing by if you need a hand.

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PostPosted: April 19, 2015, 10:38 pm 
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Sorry Briggs, i was out of town this weekend.

I got some small things done. The steering column is in its final resting place, i think.... I finally decided that 20* is about right and i wanted the steering column support to be separate from the scuttle so that I can build the scuttle to be removable. With my seat in the approximate location, i have about 670mm from the center of the steering wheel to the seat back (I am 6' 2").
Attachment:
IMG_1903.JPG


I also mocked up my front shocks and it looks like i have s bit of room for them. I plan to make a cross bar for the upper mount so that i can mount the shocks more vertically.
Attachment:
IMG_1906.JPG

Attachment:
IMG_1905.JPG


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PostPosted: April 20, 2015, 1:07 pm 
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Location: Columbia SC
Vinyl tubing and bungees.. You must have taken that suspension from a Prius. No, I think they use marshmallows and bungees. I like the car. Look at making an equal length header for a 4:1. You can get flat spots with unequal length. Not always, but it can happen. Even the stock M42 header is good if it can be modified to work.

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