LocostUSA.com

Excellent choice, that will be the least eye catching, been there done that.

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

My thoughts......

_________________
Trochu Motor League

A productive day in quarantine. I used a jigsaw to cut the sides out. I learned a new trick from Kevin Coran on Youtube, put duct-tape on the bottom of the saw so it glides and doesn't mar the sheet. This worked really well, although I used painters tape instead.


Now I have to figure out how to make an 8' brake to do the bottom fold. I plan to have the side panel vertical the entire way so I can fold the entire bottom at one time.

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

If you look at the run, you can segment into sections where there are bends in the frame. You can make a small cut or notch where it will change angles. This makes it much shorter a run to bend.

Thom

_________________
Thom

Thanks Thom. I considered doing it in a similar fashion to what you are suggesting but my metal brake only does 36" at a time and the hinge assembly interferes with any metal sticking out past them.

https://www.harborfreight.com/36-in-metal-brake-with-stand-62518.html

Is there a way to modify it to accomplish what I need?

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

You could cut the brake in half and extend it but that is not what you need. The frame rail is your brake. There are a lot of ways you can do this. Get some wood work sliding C clamps or make some out of 2x4, steel, and threaded rod to adjust. Clamp 2x4 against the skin on both sides. Use a piece of 2x4 or rubber mallet to roll the flange over a few degrees at a time over a large area to prevent stretching the flange. I'll draw something.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

To do the top rail, just clamp around the rail.

To bend the bottom:

Cleco or temp rivet the panel in place so it won't slide around.
Run two horizontal 2x4 outside the upper and lower frame rails.
Run two vertical 2x4 that overhang the rail width by 3 inches at the top and bottom.
Drill the ends of the vertical 2x4s for 3/8 nuts, bolts, and washers.
Use four ratcheting straps to connect the ends of the vertical 2x4s.
The upper straps do not need to be very tight. They just help keep everything lined up.
Roll the bottom flange over evenly at little at a time the full length of the straight area.
Slide the verticals as needed to reach the area blocked by the 2x4.

If it were me, I'd probably just apply pressure through a section of 2x4 with the chassis on it's side and use a big short handled rubber mallet to work it down with my free hand.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

More work which is strictly cosmetic
But you might want to consider put a decreasing radius that on the bottom bend in the panel. Starts by matching the bottom edge of the nose cone radius, and then tapers to a right angle bend near the footwell.
You will need to make buck. But it can be used for both sides. I just clamped the sheet down to the work bench and bent it over the buck by hand.
Davew

Unless you are going into metal forming business, no brake is needed. This is aluminum, not plate steel. I did mine all by hand. I formed the top edge off of the car. Then used the car itself as the forming tool for the bottom bends. here are a few pics and description of the process. I used 0.040" 3030-H14 but the process should be the same with .050" only a bit stiffer. Doing this by hand will give you some experience that will needed for the hand forming over round tube at the rear.

http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.p ... &start=201

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Gavin
Took me a while to find it, hope this helps. The preceding page show the scuttle.
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12234&start=270
Here's a better description, scroll down the page I put the pics back in.
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16609&p=230596#p230596

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Love that form, great idea...

Mnot, what thickness is your aluminium ?
I bent mine by clamping it on a table with some 1X1 maple and then bend it by hand, I did not use a brake. 18 gauge is really easy to bend, 16 gauge would be better on a brake.

Fred

Fred, I am using 0.050 which I believe translates to 16ga.

Perry, Thank you for reloading those pictures!! I certainly do prefer reading picture books Those links have some priceless tips that I hope to duplicate in the coming days.

Dave, I don't know how I could use your decreasing radius buck idea. The lower corner of my nose cone from Jack (the Curtis') is about 1/2" radius. Does your nose have a softer curve at the bottom?

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

I still haven't bent anything but I made the holes for the upper 3 suspension mounts that stick out of the skin on both sides. I took it very slowly so I didn't mess up since I don't have any more aluminum sheets. I also cut the relief for the dash hoop on the DS.

Lastly, I cut the wheel well opening leaving 2" behind the frame in case I want to wrap it around and bolt it too. I don't think I will because the fender will be holding this section on.

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

I was thinking 16 gauge as 0.065 but 0.050 should bend easier. you can do a test piece with some scrap to get the hang of it.

Fred