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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 28, 2017, 8:17 pm 
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Not much to show on my build but I have been working on it a bit. I pulled the motor and ran a leak down test. all cylinders were 40% and it is obvious that someone had opened it up before. the cams were oriented correctly but the intake cam gear was 180 out. my guess is that someone tried to refresh all the gaskets etc but bent the valves putting it back together. :BH:

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PostPosted: March 29, 2017, 7:19 am 
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Mnot wrote:
Not much to show on my build but I have been working on it a bit. I pulled the motor and ran a leak down test. all cylinders were 40% and it is obvious that someone had opened it up before. the cams were oriented correctly but the intake cam gear was 180 out. my guess is that someone tried to refresh all the gaskets etc but bent the valves putting it back together. :BH:
That sounds EX-Spend-Sive! Ouch... :cry:
How big a job is it to replace 'em? Or is it time/money ahead to get another entire cylinder head (maybe minus cams)? Or... Another engine altogether? Whatever the solution, it doesn't sound like a lot of fun. Sorry, Bro...

:cheers:
JDK

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: March 30, 2017, 5:58 am 
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That sucks Gavin. Is it going to be as easy as replacing the valves?

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PostPosted: March 31, 2017, 8:44 pm 
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I don't know the extent of the required repairs. I made some calls and the machining etc. doesn't sound very costly although it is $$ I wasn't expecting to spend. The cylinder head guy says BMW's are notorious for carbon build up on the valves preventing them from closing completely. Hopefully that is the issue but I doubt I am that lucky.

Upon more investigation, a friend noticed that the thrust was worn way out of spec so that is another issue. I have gone from an engine freshening up to an engine rebuild. But, I have never rebuilt a complete engine so maybe it is an opportunity to learn.

I also read that using VW 16v hydraulic cam followers, aka. lifters, reduces the valve train weight by 30+grams per valve and they are pretty cheap at $8-12 each. might help it in the high RPM range.

I hope to drop off all of the parts next week to have them evaluated. I will keep y'all posted

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PostPosted: April 1, 2017, 4:02 am 
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Fingers crossed for you!!

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PostPosted: April 1, 2017, 7:27 am 
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Briggs wrote:
Fingers crossed for you!!
Yeah, what he ^ said...
I had an engine rebuild kinda forced on me with the Slotus. Two "junkyard" engines that I refreshed and ran and they both failed. Didn't wanna do it, had to, so I did. It's a daunting bit of work to contemplate, but if you go at it step-by-step, it's really not hard just has to be done carefully.

I had the benefit of a couple of good friends that are also good mechanics that answered all my dumb questions. They also steered me to a good machine shop to do the boring out of cylinders and clean up the block and heads. James had things like piston ring sleeves and valve spring compressors, so I didn't have to buy/rent those. I borrowed a book he owns that is a "shop manual" of sorts for Ford V8s. That book had all the specs, torque settings, pictures and instructions for rebuilding a Ford 302. You'll want something like that too. Amazon is your friend!

In other words, Bro, it ain't rocket surgery. You can do it. Take your time, ask somebody that actually knows (that leaves me out) when you have questions, have the specs handy and follow them, you'll be fine... Seriously, I mean, iffen me and Bubba* did it, surely you can!

*Bubba did over-torque all the rod bolts and I had to buy another set, but that's beside the point...

:cheers:
JDK

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: April 1, 2017, 8:04 am 
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The cylinder head guy will put the head back together for me minus the cams so I won't have to worry about that. The bottom end would likely be: hot tank, hone the cylinders, turn and polish the crank, new bearings, new rings, slap it back together

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PostPosted: May 18, 2017, 5:50 pm 
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it feels like I really haven't done much to the 7 lately, probably because I haven't....

However, RacePedals helped me out BIG and helped me (okay I helped him) make the fenders. I think they are the business. It really makes it look like a car and they are light and very strong.
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PostPosted: May 19, 2017, 11:21 am 
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They look like fiberglass. Are they made for Locosts, or for some other application? How much are they? Website?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: May 20, 2017, 7:48 am 
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Yes, they are fiberglass. There is no website, RacePedals made a mold from cutting up metal fenders to suit his design preferences. Lucky for me he lives close by and was willing to donate a ton of his time to make them with me. Look up his build on this site.

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PostPosted: May 20, 2017, 10:08 am 
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Got it. Thank you.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: May 30, 2017, 9:01 pm 
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I have been trying to continue to work on the car as much as I can. I reworked the front lower shock mount twice and I am now happy with it. The issue is that the shock is a female clevis so I had to create a male mount for it. Originally I used a rod end with spacers but I think it had too much lateral load which is the wrong way for the rod end. I ended up using a "recovery clevis" from the 4x4 world measuring 2"x.75" thick with a poly shock mount bushing. all of this is mounted on a 3x1"x0.120" tube with a 3/4" x 0.065 tube welded on the inside across the middle. This setup is solid and surprisingly lighter than I expected.
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PostPosted: June 1, 2017, 1:38 pm 
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I approve!! Let me know when those are ready to weld out, I have drill this weekend I can stop by and pick them up on my way back on Sunday.

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PostPosted: June 27, 2017, 3:43 pm 
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Stopped by Gavin's on my way home from Drill and grabbed his FLCA's. I switch filler wire from 308 to 312 and wow, what a difference!!

Carbon steel is so much easier to weld then stainless, much more forgiving.

Image

I'll have to put a 2nd pass over this one. Larger gap and too much under cut. Will be grinding down the tacks and going over them again.

Image

I'll post up some more pictures once I finish them.

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PostPosted: July 1, 2017, 6:25 pm 
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I am really happy with this new setup. I am confident it will hold up to the abuse I hope to one day put it through. I no longer have to convince myself "it SHOULD hold".

As always, your welds are beautiful Briggs. Thank you!

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