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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 1, 2018, 5:34 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 543
Location: Charlotte, NC
Thank you, I think your dash looks great. I love the Smith's Gauges, it makes me remember my 70 MGB (first car). I like the idea of a glovebox too. What did you use for the box itself?

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PostPosted: January 1, 2018, 9:22 pm 
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Joined: May 27, 2006, 9:46 pm
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
Thanks!

Believe it or not, the box itself is for cat litter - it had a handle on it. I cut off the top couple of inches, made some thin aluminum right-angle brackets, & riveted them onto the four sides of the box, giving me something to screw onto the back of the dash.

The box is lined with black, dollar store 1/8” neoprene. The latch is from a 300ZX glove box, and the inside LED light is from Princess Auto (Canadian version of Harbor Freight).

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PostPosted: January 16, 2018, 11:03 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I mocked up the dash using masonite so it can hold the actual gauges. I think it looks about right from the driver seat. The gauges are high so it is easy to see without dropping my eyes too far.

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we also bought the kids a 12V John Deere Gator for $200 from Walmart!

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PostPosted: January 17, 2018, 2:40 pm 
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Joined: March 30, 2011, 7:18 am
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Location: central Arkansas
Yeah, I have the same issue. For both me and my wife to see all the instruments without moving a hand off the steering wheel, and to clear the steering column and the chassis tubes behind the dash, the instrument layout looks sort of random instead of everything laid out in a nice pattern.


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PostPosted: February 19, 2018, 10:34 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I have been working on seemingly little things lately but that is all the time I have had lately. I bought a Miata battery on promo for $120. it weighs 24lbs and has 320CCA which I hope is enough for my motor considering it will never see the cold.

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PostPosted: February 20, 2018, 3:55 pm 
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Joined: March 30, 2011, 7:18 am
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Location: central Arkansas
320 will be plenty. And my usual admonitions: don't skimp on battery cable diameter, even if it *is* heavy. And run a return cable from one of the starter mounting bolts (with a good metal to metal connection, not paint!) back to the battery instead of relying on a random path through the frame tubes. You're talking about a lot of current and it has to complete the circuit; a unibody or spaceframe usually isn't a very good conductor.


A friend took his big block Impala to a drag race several hundred miles away. Time off work, gas, food, hotel bills, new slicks, race gas, entry fee. First run, his son was driving; did his burnout, dry hopped, and stalled the engine. Gr-ur. Click.

No restarts at the line; they were running eliminations instead of brackets, and a Did Not Start counted as a loss. They loaded the car on the trailer and finished the event as spectators.

The super-duper gear-reduction starter did f-all trying to suck juice through a positive cable the size of a #2 pencil and no particular return path...


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PostPosted: February 24, 2018, 10:06 am 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
TRX, I hear you. I have read several similar stories. I am running the BMW factory positive cable (2/0 cable) from the battery to a resettable circuit breaker (instead of fusible link) then to a battery cut-off, then to the starter.

For the ground I am running 2/0 amplifier cable which has tons more strands than welding cable to the chassis. Then I will run a 10awg wire from the block to a ground buss then back to the battery. The ground buss will also have a chassis connection to make sure there are several paths to ground.

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PostPosted: March 27, 2018, 9:37 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I have gotten a few things done but not much really note worthy. I did get the tail lights mounted. They are all LED from Amazon and pretty darn bright, the stop/brake has 10 LED, Turn has 6 LED, and Reverse has 4 LED. SC Law states that they have to be at least 20" from the level ground to the center of the light which makes it about 3" higher than I wanted but I think it will be okay.


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PostPosted: March 27, 2018, 9:41 pm 
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Joined: March 30, 2011, 7:18 am
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Location: central Arkansas
I like those than the big Caterham style lights. Can you post the part number or link?


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PostPosted: March 28, 2018, 7:20 am 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Here ya go:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FL7VRM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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PostPosted: March 28, 2018, 11:26 pm 
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Thanks!


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PostPosted: June 17, 2018, 7:59 am 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
It's alive! With some help from friends, it fired up yesterday.

https://youtu.be/XBCAQHRUlCk

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PostPosted: June 17, 2018, 10:15 am 
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We are Slotus!
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Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Way to go, Gavin! IT'S ALIVE!!!! Congrats!
:cheers:

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: June 17, 2018, 10:26 am 
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Joined: June 20, 2010, 10:49 am
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Location: Concord, NC
That's Great. I hate I was unable to come and celebrate with you guys.


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PostPosted: June 17, 2018, 12:35 pm 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Outstanding, Gavin!

And, it had lots of spitting and farting at start-up like a proper British sports car (let's don't mention the German engine, eh what?) should have.

You should be proud.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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