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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: June 17, 2018, 2:23 pm 
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Joined: December 24, 2007, 5:11 am
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Location: Seattle area
Good for you! Your anticipation was well rewarded.

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PostPosted: June 17, 2018, 11:07 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Thanks guys!

it won't idle because I forgot to add a port for the idle control valve (rookie mistake). That's why we had to keep revving it. Easy fix and it should be good.

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PostPosted: June 19, 2018, 11:09 pm 
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Now I need some guidance....

Do I keep going and install the brake system along with the ancillary electrical systems (lights, horn, etc.) or do I pull it all a part to complete the chassis and paint it?

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PostPosted: June 20, 2018, 1:56 am 
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Mnot wrote:
Do I keep going and install the brake system along with the ancillary electrical systems (lights, horn, etc.) or do I pull it all a part to complete the chassis and paint it?


:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: Yesss do it, or nooo don't do it. For me it all depended on what phase the moon was at :cheers:

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PostPosted: June 20, 2018, 7:20 am 
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While I'm kind of the same (lack of) mindset as Perry... Was that a full moon last week???

I think if you're through welding, or at least think you're through welding, then disassemble and paint the chassis before you have even MORE stuff to take off when you disassemble and paint the chassis.

Or not... :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JDK

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"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: June 20, 2018, 9:04 am 
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Paint, or not paint. It matters not. Just keep moving forward.


Me? I painted then put the brake lines in. I should have done it the other way around.

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PostPosted: June 21, 2018, 2:53 pm 
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So perhaps the consensus is definitely to complete all systems, maybe?

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PostPosted: June 21, 2018, 3:18 pm 
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Mnot wrote:
So perhaps the consensus is definitely to complete all systems, maybe?


I've built the whole car, with everything in place, except brake likes. Take it all apart, paint the frame, start putting it back together, once it's a roller again, I start jabbing the brake lines, a continue from there.

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"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O.
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build, The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered


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PostPosted: June 21, 2018, 9:06 pm 
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I was considering using wire shirt hangers to determine the routing of the brake lines and weld any mounting tabs that are needed for the brake lines, then pull it all apart.

I do plan to run all the wiring so I can check all the accessories etc. and then create nice looms for the reassembly.

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PostPosted: June 21, 2018, 9:52 pm 
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Shirt hangers or solder - solder is easier to manipulate.

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PostPosted: July 15, 2018, 9:47 pm 
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I haven't started on the brake system yet but I decided to give it a bit of a face lift instead.
Attachment:
headlights.jpg
headlights.jpg [ 359.49 KiB | Viewed 1459 times ]

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PostPosted: August 13, 2018, 8:27 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
i got my drive shaft done this week but i am running into a space issue with the support bearing. does anyone know if mounting it vertically vs horizontally (OEM mount is on bottom) will make a difference? Assuming that the angle of the mounted bearing is correct for the angle of the rear driveshaft (2* in my case).


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PostPosted: August 14, 2018, 8:23 am 
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The bushing appears to be voided? As long as the support bearing has equal void spacing in the rubber it should not be an issue if it's mounting is vertically vs horizontally.
To be honest the drive shaft in a Seven is so short that you should not need a mounted bearing.
DaveW


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PostPosted: August 14, 2018, 7:50 pm 
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Thanks Dave. My DS is 925mm long. The reason it has to have the center bearing is because the front half has a rubber flex disc (guibo) and the front half must be perfectly aligned with the output shaft. The rear half is where the angle comes in to reach the differential. Several European cars use this style but i prefer the simple and effective method of a one piece shaft with a U joints at each end. Several manufacturers use the Getrag transmission and I tried to find out if i could swap out the front flange to have a one piece shaft made but i was not able find a definitive replacement. I am using a Getrag 240 5 speed gear box FYI.

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PostPosted: August 20, 2018, 9:40 pm 
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i have gotten a few little things done on the build. I have the heater core in and i am pleased with it. i am not sure about blowing air from the engine bay into the cabin but i guess without a top and windows, who really cares. The wiring is a complete mess but i will clean it up once i take the car apart for final welding and chassis painting.


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