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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: August 21, 2018, 7:18 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
Look at trying ducking air into the heater from the passage foot well. It's not that you are not going to get engine fumes in a Seven, but why add to them?
DaveW


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PostPosted: August 26, 2018, 6:54 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
The motor runs and fires up fine (always the second crank). But, it won't recover from revs as shown by the video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_SsTOB4re0&t=3s

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PostPosted: September 7, 2018, 9:37 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I found at least one reason for the idle issue, there is a big vacuum leak at the throttle body. it is about 95% fixed and I wonder if the other 5% is the lightened flywheel which will be fixed when I chip it.

I started working on the brakes. The Toyota brake calipers have a hard line that comes out the bottom of the caliper and then wraps upward to the top to meet the flexible hose. The center of the hard line is about 14mm above the center of the bleeder screw which seems odd to me.
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I also installed all of the M/C's to see where I am starting from and to get an idea of how the balance bar works.
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PostPosted: September 16, 2018, 10:32 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I tried off and on all day today trying to figure out how to wire my hazards and turn signals and failed miserably. I think I fried the flasher unit as it doesn't work any more :(.

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PostPosted: October 7, 2018, 10:27 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I have been working to clean up some of the wiring, focusing mostly on the rear. I now have a "harness" and working brake and reverse lights.
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File comment: My assistant demonstrating the brake lights
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PostPosted: October 16, 2018, 8:57 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I have been working on the car but not much to really show for it. I did get my "matching" knob for the heater fan (left) to match the brake bias knob (right). I also found a choke cable that will work as my temperature control when connected to the heater control valve (bottom center). ultimately everything will be in proper alignment but I keep making changes so things are way off at this point.
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PostPosted: October 17, 2018, 10:15 am 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
I'd call what you're doing with the dash "working smart." You're making changes when it's simplest and least expensive to do so. You'll end up with a better end-result because of it.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: October 17, 2018, 10:54 am 
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Joined: May 27, 2006, 9:46 pm
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
I agree - that's the way I did it, and it worked out extremely well. It took me several months of tries, off and on, to get it just right.

I initially made a wood dash, with what I thought at the time would be my final layout. However, when I saw it "in the flesh", the layout just didn't work. It occurred to me that the first thing anyone sees when getting into the car is the dash, so it needed to be "right". A haphazard layout was going to bug me forever, so I ended up shuffling gauges & controls around many, many times, until I was finally 100% happy with it.

About that point I also discovered that using wood simply wasn't going to work. Many of my gauges, switches, etc. were designed to go through a dash no more than, say, 1/8" thick material, as opposed to the 3/8" mahogany-faced marine plywood I was using. While it was possible to make large cutouts & inset thin metal panels to account for that, it ended up looking..."sub-optimal".

So, when I got to that stage, I laid out a traced out the shape & general hole locations on some 1/8" aluminum, cut out the outer shape, then carefully laid out a Sharpie grid over the whole face (so I could ensure holes were perfectly aligned, level to the frame/scuttle, etc.) & cut out all the holes. I mounted it in the car several times during the process, checking angles, visibility of gauges, accessibility of controls, placement of warning lights, etc. to make sure it would work, as well as look good. The most important gauges & most frequently used switches needed to be closest to the driver (for example, oil pressure needed to be closer than voltage, and the wiper switch needed to be closer than the heater fan switch).

I looked at dash layouts from many of the favorite cars I've owned (Austin Mini Cooper, Porsche 914, Porsche 944, Miata, etc.) & adapted my Locost dash to reflect what I liked best about each of them.

Then I covered it with leather-grained automotive vinyl upholstery & finished it off with a polished aluminum panel for the switches & pull cables. I'm extremely happy with the results which, I think look pretty clean.

I've seen a few local cars where the builders didn't take their time & do a well thought-out layout. They look a bit amateurish, and a small misalignment of a gauge or mismatched switch gear was glaring to my eye.

It's good to see you taking your time and really getting the dash exactly the way you want it!

:cheers:

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PostPosted: October 18, 2018, 10:26 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Thanks guys. I know I stole the masonite idea from someone on this site. I learned that the dash configuration is critical in my E30. I put a smaller wheel in it and suddenly I couldn't see the vital bits but I steered how I wanted.

So, with this build, I thought I would really take my time get everything in and then rearrange until I am happy. Revs, oil pressure, and coolant temp are the most important things to me so that is how I placed them. I think I might mount the accessory power outlets in the tunnel (facing up) instead of in the center stack. Your thoughts???

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PostPosted: October 18, 2018, 10:30 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I have been working on the other side of the dash this week (fire wall). I got a split grommet for the coil wires to pass through the firewall and I think it will work out just fine, although it was pricey.
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PostPosted: October 21, 2018, 7:21 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
playing with the dash and accessory locations. I use some scrap aluminum for the center to see about moving the USB and Cig. outlet into the tunnel. Any thoughts on this??
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PostPosted: October 21, 2018, 7:25 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Reworked the UCA's this weekend. I had too much caster with the other setup (11 deg) so I had to add a 15 degree bend in the rear leg to move the UBJ where it needs to be. As measured with my $11 eBay camber/caster gauge, I am set at 4 deg of caster with plenty of adjustment.
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PostPosted: January 6, 2019, 9:12 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
First Drive!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74RlLrhV1Ig

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PostPosted: January 6, 2019, 10:06 pm 
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Joined: December 24, 2007, 5:11 am
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Location: Seattle area
Congrats! What fun that must have been. And nothing fell off! Hooray!

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PostPosted: January 7, 2019, 7:28 am 
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Looks good! Sounds good! :cheers:

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