LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently July 13, 2020, 1:13 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 702 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41 ... 47  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: February 19, 2020, 9:31 am 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Charlotte, NC
I ordered my 4.10 gears on RockAuto.com. The had really good prices on 8.8 gears and install kits. The 4.10:1 was $121 and was a Dana brand part vs the Ford Racing 4.10:1 gears are $167 on Summit. I also ordered an install kit with Koyo bearings. I plan to build the diff while I am waiting to borrow a buddy's engine hoist.

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: February 26, 2020, 11:51 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Charlotte, NC
As I disassembled the car, I weighed the T-bird diff (with trac-loc) vs the lincoln diff (aluminum case and open diff). The T-bird was 80.4lbs and the Lincoln was 58.2lbs. The T-bird weight included the explorer rear cover and the lincoln included the stock cover and mount. I expect that the LSD will add some weight but I am happy to have shaved 18-20 lbs with the aluminum diff. Now I have to regear, rebuild, and refresh the diff in preparation for the blasted and painted chassis.

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: February 27, 2020, 7:42 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Charlotte, NC
To make all things equal, I decided to weigh the diff housings with only the pinion gears because I realized that the trac-loc would be heavier than an open diff. The results were: T-Bird=38.2lbs and the Mark VIII = 24.0lbs.

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 2, 2020, 2:23 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Charlotte, NC
I got the diff back together with rebuilt trac-loc, 4.10 gears, and all new Koyo bearings. I am happy with the pattern with the drive pattern in the center of the tooth but coast is toward the toe. I am inclined to leave it as it is unless one of you suggest otherwise. This is my first complete diff rebuild.
Attachment:
File comment: coast pattern (toward toe)
IMG_3359.jpg
IMG_3359.jpg [ 169.04 KiB | Viewed 3710 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: drive pattern (centered)
IMG_3357.jpg
IMG_3357.jpg [ 170.31 KiB | Viewed 3716 times ]


edit: The total weight of the Lincoln case, trac-loc, 4.10 gears, the explorer cover and mounting bolts is 65.4lbs

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


Last edited by Mnot on March 2, 2020, 9:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 2, 2020, 7:04 pm 
Offline
Automotive Encyclopedia
User avatar

Joined: December 22, 2006, 2:05 pm
Posts: 6656
It looks like high/shallow contact with too little pinion shim.
How thick is the old shim that is installed now?
Typical is .025-.030". Also assumes the bearing cup is fully seated.
Check more than one spot to ensure there are no problems with the carrier and/or ring.

You could try pressing the bearing away from the shim, slide in some shim stock, reseat, then checking again to determine the shim needed rather than complete pressing the bearing off a couple times trying to get close. Don't need much pinion nut torque for checking.

_________________
MV8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om3C1Ep ... D3E18BB447


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 2, 2020, 9:08 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Charlotte, NC
It had 0.0 shims from the factory. And the pinion was marked as a 0.0 from Dana (the new gear set). As installed, it has a 0.030 shim because the first time, the drive was at the heel and the coast was at the toe. this seemed to bring them both toward the center. Backlash is .095". When I moved a 0.01 shim to gear side from the other side, it had 0 backlash. Admittedly, I think 0.035 would be the ideal but, I have 30 and 40 with nothing in between.

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 8, 2020, 10:36 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Charlotte, NC
Stripped the car down a bit more and used two HF engine stands to make a rotisserie
Attachment:
rotisserie.JPG
rotisserie.JPG [ 352.07 KiB | Viewed 3447 times ]

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 20, 2020, 7:19 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Charlotte, NC
My chassis is just about ready for primer and paint! I think that i will make the body panels (sides and back) before primer/paint. I want them to be removable and I am using 0.050 aluminum sheets for the whole car. Any suggestions how to make them? I would like to learn from others successes and failures so I can repeat the successes and avoid the failures.

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 20, 2020, 8:01 pm 
Offline
Automotive Encyclopedia
User avatar

Joined: December 22, 2006, 2:05 pm
Posts: 6656
Fit bolt-on panels as splash guards behind the rear control arms so the rear body doesn’t become a dirt and mud bucket or you can leave the skin off the bottom of the trunk.

Don’t use an aggressive/strong sealer when fitting the removable panels. Use 1/4 inch or #8 stainless pan heads, preferably allen sockets but #2 or 3 phillips is ok.

If you only need access to a small area that is covered by a large panel, rivet the panel like normal but cut an access hole (use a unibit to make radiused corners) then make a cover with one inch of overlap all around and hang it with ½ inch long panhead sheet metal screws every four inches around the edge. If you cut the shortest distance between the unibit holes rather than the outside edge, you can bend flanges around the opening that will make it all more rigid and won’t cut you when accessing.

Fit a step panel (can be wood, rigid aluminum sheet like diamond plate, phenolic, fiberglass, etc) to the area forward of the seats about 12 inches wide to prevent damage to the floor getting in and out with stones in your shoes and makes for a more solid feel rather than flexing as you get in and out.

Use rivets and sealer for the dry passenger compartment. If you don’t want to see seams, lap.

Prime and paint before sealing and riveting panels.

_________________
MV8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om3C1Ep ... D3E18BB447


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 22, 2020, 9:07 am 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Charlotte, NC
Thanks MV8

As I continue to get closer to chassis completion, I need to sort out the tow hook mount. At the moment I can considering putting a threaded tub in the front center under the radiator supports with gussets from the rad supports to the tube. For the rear, I am considering welding a threaded tube onto one of the bottom rear supports. I found that an S2000 uses standard M12x1.75 thread which is a size I can easily tap. https://www.amazon.com/Honda-S2000-Racing-Aluminum-Sports/dp/B07KC4PK35/ref=sr_1_38?keywords=s2000+tow+hook&qid=1584880947&sr=8-38
Pictures of others that have successfully added tow points are appreciated.

Attachment:
File comment: Front: threaded tube for tow hook would be below the rad plate with gussets from the supporting tubes
IMG_3390x.jpg
IMG_3390x.jpg [ 294.83 KiB | Viewed 2003 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: Rear: Threaded tub would be welded to one of the lower support tubes.
IMG_3391x.jpg
IMG_3391x.jpg [ 265.89 KiB | Viewed 2003 times ]

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 22, 2020, 9:50 am 
Offline
Automotive Encyclopedia
User avatar

Joined: December 22, 2006, 2:05 pm
Posts: 6656
It is pretty, but I would not trust it and if it snaps off, your sol.
I'd fit a common sae forged steel eye bolt or use the more aesthetic forged eye that comes on bmws.

_________________
MV8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om3C1Ep ... D3E18BB447


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 22, 2020, 10:34 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: January 1, 2012, 12:44 pm
Posts: 457
Location: Boise, Idaho
In my experience with road racing and open track events, small open sports cars and formula cars are usually towed by wrapping the tow rope around the roll bar and then twisted around itself, giving the loose end to the driver to hold. This was allowed when I took my cat on the track.
YMMV


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 22, 2020, 2:52 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Charlotte, NC
When i was towed at the first auto-x they wouldnt do that because he was afraid of the strap being too close to my head if it were to snap.

MV8 - I agree about the forged eye's but the BMW's use a weird thread that I can't replicate. I might go to the j/y to see what I can find in a normal thread pitch.

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 25, 2020, 10:30 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Charlotte, NC
When driving the car before disassembly, I didn't like how flat the seat was. It felt like I had to support my legs while driving and it would likely cause fatigue over a short period of time. So, I made some seat mounts to go between the seat and the sliders that raised the front of the seat about 10deg. This solution caused another problem, the shoulder supports of the seat now conflicted with the arches of the frame that follow the arc of the rear fender :boxing: . After coming up with several options, I opted to narrow the arches by 1/2" to allow for the space I need. I then boxed in the inside of the arches with another piece of 14ga scrap left over from the floor.
Attachment:
IMG_3392x.jpg
IMG_3392x.jpg [ 391.31 KiB | Viewed 1677 times ]

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 29, 2020, 10:09 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Charlotte, NC
Creating templates for panels. I will make a seam at the roll bar between the sides and the boot because there is only about 1.5" showing when the fender is attached. I am nervous about getting these right on the first try, I only have 2 10' sheets. I plan/hope to have the aluminum wrap around the top chassis tubes so that the panels are bolted on from the inside instead of the top. This is because I dont want the allen heads to interfere with the cowl or the bonnet.
Attachment:
IMG_3398x.jpg
IMG_3398x.jpg [ 312.85 KiB | Viewed 1561 times ]

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 702 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41 ... 47  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 13 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY