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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: February 13, 2015, 9:11 am 
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Joined: August 11, 2012, 10:56 pm
Posts: 205
Location: Arizona
Thanks everyone for the suggestions and encouragement while I'm getting back into the swing :) It has been a busy few days, but I will have time today and over the weekend to actually get out into the garage

up next:
- add fiberglass to the nose cone
- cut exhaust header tubes at collector, start making the transition which will go inside the collector
- remove oil pan, clean out, new gasket
- perhaps reshape the shift knob to reduce the amount of marshmallow/coprolite, heh

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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: February 13, 2015, 9:32 pm 
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Location: Arizona
Started adding fiberglass to the nose cone today. Had to run out to Home Depot after finding out that my several-years-old can of resin had solidified.

Attachment:
IMG_6478_r.JPG

I probably won't need to use the fancy nose cone bracket in the pic, because a couple simple L-shaped brackets would probably secure the nose cone just as well.

Also, I took off the oil pan and started cleaning it up. Should have a lot of time tomorrow to add more fiberglass, probably reinstall the oil pan/gasket, and maybe continue on the headers.


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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: February 16, 2015, 12:13 pm 
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Joined: August 11, 2012, 10:56 pm
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Location: Arizona
Saturday, I added a couple layers of fiberglass to the nose cone. I also modified a smartphone mount so it would bolt on near the radio on my daily driver.

Sunday, I added more fiberglass to the nose cone. And I replaced the oil pan gasket (blue Felpro) and pan and filled the engine with oil (5 qt 10w30). I must have gotten the gasket crooked while tightening the bolts, because it's already leaking slightly at the front of the engine. I'll redo it today. If it still leaks after that, then maybe the pan is warped from having the engine resting on it. I also filled the transmission with ~2-3/4 qt Royal Purple Synchromax. Soon, I'm hoping to turn the engine over with the starter so I can measure compression.

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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: February 17, 2015, 1:08 pm 
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Location: Arizona
Attachment:
IMG_6555_r.JPG

Added several layers of fiberglass yesterday. I think that's it for fiberglass on the nose cone. Next will be bondo and sanding.


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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: March 26, 2015, 6:55 pm 
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Location: Arizona
Tried to turn over the engine with the starter recently, and only the solenoid would click. I tried with the starter held in a vice, and same thing, doesn't turn.
Attachment:
IMG_6719_r.JPG


This is a new SVE high torque mini starter. Wondering, am I missing something with the wiring? Red cable goes to red/plus on battery. Black goes to black/minus on battery. It seems like it would be difficult to screw this up, but either I've missed something or the starter motor is defective. Any suggestions would be great


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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: March 26, 2015, 9:46 pm 
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Ummmm, Shouldn't that big black ground wire be attached to the frame of the starter? I believe you have wired it wrongly,

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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: March 26, 2015, 11:07 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
Shouldn't that big black ground wire be attached to the frame of the starter? I believe you have wired it wrongly


Bingo! That's right, take the black ground cable off the switched hot side of the solenoid and bolt it to the case of the starter (ground). Tighten the nut back up on the brush bar post and you're ready to crank.

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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: March 27, 2015, 10:32 am 
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@horchoha
@rx7locost

Chuck, Perry;

Good eye, gentlemen! Gawd, I hope you guys are around when I start to do my own "stupid wiring tricks." I'm sure I'll be able to keep you both busy (and laughing).

Cheers,

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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: March 27, 2015, 2:50 pm 
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Location: Arizona
Thanks guys - that's exactly what I was doing wrong. Retried this morning and the starter is fine. The way I had it connected before didn't make the starter motor part of the circuit. Silly mistake now that I think about it. Anyway, onwards.. thanks again

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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: March 27, 2015, 3:51 pm 
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Rob7 wrote:
Silly mistake now that I think about it. Anyway, onwards.. thanks again



Don't lose any sleep over it. They are all silly misteaks once we realize what we've done.

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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: March 27, 2015, 4:35 pm 
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Location: Arizona
carguy123 wrote:
Don't lose any sleep over it. They are all silly misteaks once we realize what we've done.
:)


I was able to do a compression test, and it's not great, but I'll say it's passable for now :lol: IIRC, the donor car had over 180k miles on it, and based on the condition of the engine mounts, I'm betting these were 'enthusiastic' miles.

#1: 115 psi
#2: 125
#3: 126
#4: 116
#5: 110
#6: 125
#7: 106
#8: 89 psi

I also retested #8 with the throttle held open, and there wasn't much change. I added some oil, and it went up to 92 psi. Also, no fuel and the engine was cold for all tests

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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: March 27, 2015, 9:11 pm 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
Quote:
Also, no fuel and the engine was cold for all tests
and possibly a low battery. What you did when wired wrong was to short out the battery with the starter switch. Did you top off the charge before trying the compression test? Those are pretty low pressures. excluding #8, 106 to 126 is not good balance. but that #8 did not rise much with added oil is good though. I'd recheck with a recharged battery and make sure it cranks for at least 6-8 full turns.

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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: March 27, 2015, 10:11 pm 
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Rob7 wrote:
#1: 115 psi#2: 125#3: 126#4: 116#5: 110#6: 125#7: 106#8: 89 psi


If you could adapt your compression tester hose so that you could connect to an air compressor while it's screwed into the spark plug hole you can test #8 to see why it's sick. You would have to crank the engine so that #8 is at TDC with both valves closed and however you can lock the crank so that it can't spin. Put air to the cylinder and listen. Hissing from the intake manifold - bad intake valve, hissing from the exhaust manifold - bad exhaust valve, hissing from the valve cover oil fill - bad rings.

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Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: March 29, 2015, 11:46 am 
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Joined: August 11, 2012, 10:56 pm
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Location: Arizona
Thanks for the suggestions as always

I recharged the battery and retested the compression. Throttle was clamped open for all tests this time. Made sure to get at least 8 turns for each test.

#1: old 115, new 110
#2: old 125, new 121
#3: old 126, new 107 (tested again time and got same reading)
#4: old 116, new 118
#5: old 110, new 100
#6: old 125, new 122
#7: old 106, new 102
#8: old 89, 92 w/oil, new 100

I'll consider getting an air compressor and leakdown tester because of how inconsistent these readings are. Tempting to just leave it for now and finish the rest of the car, though.

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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: March 29, 2015, 12:30 pm 
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Quote:
Tempting to just leave it for now and finish the rest of the car, though.


It's a good future project. There not much point to putting money into the motor before the car runs and then just have the motor sitting around. You can probably run it for a year and have fun even with the low compression.

Thanks for the continued work you're doing on Vsusp. Rob updated it recently so that it accounts for the amount of bulge a tire has when it's sitting so that the ride height and tire size all agree now.

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