LocostUSA.com

James I like these Rotary builds. H ow are you doing for road clearance on the sump , a lad building one over here is going for a dry sump. I have been following his build.

http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthre ... 521&page=3


Bob

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Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16640&p=187700#p187700

Mancave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/mypic ... ow/mancave

The sump does not sit too low. I will build a strong steel guard in front of the sump so that if I ever hit something low, the car will slide over it.

I had this same engine in a RX 7 race car and it sat about as low as it does in the roadster.

I will take pictures of the sump clearance soon and post.

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"Don't let the fear of the time it will take to accomplish something stand in the way of your doing it.
The time will pass anyway; we might just as well put that passing time to the best possible use."
— Earl Nightingale

James Cuba
Turbo Rotary "Rotus Project"
Chino, Calif

It has been a while since I posted about building a Turbo Rotary Locost 7.

I now have a running and driving car. The car runs perfect, drives straight, stops great, handles excellent, and plain HAULS BUTT!!!

330 HP in this car being as light as it is equals an E-ticket ride!!

I need bigger wheels and tires to handle the power and... well to look better.

Next will be to continue working on the bodywork and interior.

Here comes the pictures and video.
























Here is the Video!

https://youtu.be/dGCpSYjnah8





Enjoy!!!

_________________
"Don't let the fear of the time it will take to accomplish something stand in the way of your doing it.
The time will pass anyway; we might just as well put that passing time to the best possible use."
— Earl Nightingale

James Cuba
Turbo Rotary "Rotus Project"
Chino, Calif

Car is up and running. I put another post here that has current pictures and a video.

_________________
"Don't let the fear of the time it will take to accomplish something stand in the way of your doing it.
The time will pass anyway; we might just as well put that passing time to the best possible use."
— Earl Nightingale

James Cuba
Turbo Rotary "Rotus Project"
Chino, Calif

Wind noise was terrible. I'm sure you know that. An external mic should fix that. I'd like to hear how it sounds. That's a huge muffler you have.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Yep, I could use a Go Pro HD with external Mic.

Here is another walk around video and start up.

Yes, muffler is 36 inches long. Very nice and quiet and mellow for a rotary.

I want to eventually race at Laguna Seca here in California. They have very quiet noise ordinances there. I knew this exhaust would do it!

https://youtu.be/CbU4rJOAHm8

_________________
"Don't let the fear of the time it will take to accomplish something stand in the way of your doing it.
The time will pass anyway; we might just as well put that passing time to the best possible use."
— Earl Nightingale

James Cuba
Turbo Rotary "Rotus Project"
Chino, Calif

James,
Congratulations on your progress. The attention to detail is impressive. Are you planning to duct oil cooler air through the nose cone and over/around the radiator? If so, the efficiency would be improved by tilting it up to straighten out the airflow path.
I can relate to your task of meeting Laguna sound restrictions. We made many different exhaust systems for the rotary powered GT cars we ran there for two decades.
In my experience, any system (other than a bone stock cat/muffler) pointed right at the sound meter won't pass. (note: our target was to meet 103 db)
We even fielded a turbo 13B Super Production car for a few years. The system pointed straight out the back (shown below) passed at the other tracks, but not at Laguna.
The only way that we could get our cars to pass was to have a left side exit system. You may want to make the 90* right side exit removable and have a Laguna-only extension that goes out the back with a 90* pointed away from sound. Keep in mind the squished oval stainless pipe available from Burns for tight spots.

Looking good.

Ron

Hello!!! it is funny, i just got asked by my dad to swap the 12A rotary in is seven for a turbo rotary to: get the power in the 200whp range (250 would be the ideal target to match my Sr20 engine) and also to get the car at a decent sound level.

I am thinking about the 13BT from 89-92 but i need to do a bit more reading before going and shopping for an engine. If you have any suggestion, im really open to anything!

here is a little video of the car.. noise is terrible.. https://www.facebook.com/jonathan.paren ... nref=story

and some photos of the build https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 9de92c3d16

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Making a Deman SR27 lapping and street car
Any question on driveshaft, i will be more than happy to answer!

Hey sr27,
My two cents. Either the 13BT (from the FC, with the stock turbo) or the 13BREW (from the FD, but with a small single turbo) will meet your goal with a 2.5" exhaust, a Borla muffler (with SS packing) and the wastegate set at 8 psi. I'd recommend aftermarket EFI. Lots of info on rx7club website.

Ron

There is a lack of frame triangulation on the right side of the engine bay. You may have plans to add several tubes to accomplish this and just haven't gotten to it yet. Another option would be to add weld tabs and bolt on stressed-skin panels to get the frame strength.

[quote="seven13bt"]James,
Congratulations on your progress. The attention to detail is impressive. Are you planning to duct oil cooler air through the nose cone and over/around the radiator? If so, the efficiency would be improved by tilting it up to straighten out the airflow path.
I can relate to your task of meeting Laguna sound restrictions. We made many different exhaust systems for the rotary powered GT cars we ran there for two decades.
In my experience, any system (other than a bone stock cat/muffler) pointed right at the sound meter won't pass. (note: our target was to meet 103 db)
We even fielded a turbo 13B Super Production car for a few years. The system pointed straight out the back (shown below) passed at the other tracks, but not at Laguna.
The only way that we could get our cars to pass was to have a left side exit system. You may want to make the 90* right side exit removable and have a Laguna-only extension that goes out the back with a 90* pointed away from sound. Keep in mind the squished oval stainless pipe available from Burns for tight spots.


Thanks for the comments and suggestions. Packaging everything inside of the small nose one has been a challenge.

First I have a custom 5 core radiator built here in Orange Calif. so far it seems to work excellent.

As far as the oil cooler, I am building ducting and baffles so that the air is fed to the radiator and then some gets diverted back to the oil cooler. I have also ensured the airflow had an adequate exit path as well.

I will replace the stock intercooler with an aftermarket top mount and use a big Subaru STI hood scoop to divert air to it.
I used the STI scoop and tore mount intercooled rotary in another project and it works well.

To make 100% sure I am in the clear with my oil temp.... I have a user selectable temperature gauge that I can alternate engine oil temp, trans temp, differential temp as well as charge air temp to the throttle body.

Testing without any ducting shows oil temps staying steady. I am sure with proper ducting it will stay OK. If not.....back to the drawing board.

_________________
"Don't let the fear of the time it will take to accomplish something stand in the way of your doing it.
The time will pass anyway; we might just as well put that passing time to the best possible use."
— Earl Nightingale

James Cuba
Turbo Rotary "Rotus Project"
Chino, Calif

I am using an engine from a 1988 Turbo II. I have a BNR stage 3 turbo that uses an upgraded compressor housing and modified turbine housing as well as modified turbine / compressor wheels.

I use Stock Turbo II primary injectors and significantly larger secondary injectors.

The whole engine management is handled with a Haltech "stand alone" computer.

Engine has an ultra lightweight Racing Beat Aluminum Flywheel and 4 puck clutch.

Transmission is 1985 FB spec. Rear axle is 1985 GSL disc brake rear. Trans / engine / rear axle held up for many race seasons in a 2200 pound RX7. Should have "easy" life in a street legal Locost.

The engine is rebuilt bone stock. It idles nicely and was Dyno tuned here in SoCal at 330 HP to the rear wheels at 16 pounds boost. It has the ability to make more HP, but at 16 pounds of boost it runs the injectors up to 100% duty cycle. If I want more power I need more injector.

I am a regular on the RX7 forum. It is a wealth of knowledge if you want to run rotary..... Which I highly recommend!!!

_________________
"Don't let the fear of the time it will take to accomplish something stand in the way of your doing it.
The time will pass anyway; we might just as well put that passing time to the best possible use."
— Earl Nightingale

James Cuba
Turbo Rotary "Rotus Project"
Chino, Calif

Ha ha! You and me are thinking the same exact thing! Once I get my intercooler piping completely fabbed I will build something to go where that triangulation used to be.

I had to cut it out to put the turbo in. I have been either thinking about a removable Bolted in tubing assembly, or like you mention, a skin panel that will support the load.

Moti, form Blackbird Fabworx has done a lot of the fabrication for me and will do this needed fabrication. He is located about 50 minutes away in Northridge Calif.

_________________
"Don't let the fear of the time it will take to accomplish something stand in the way of your doing it.
The time will pass anyway; we might just as well put that passing time to the best possible use."
— Earl Nightingale

James Cuba
Turbo Rotary "Rotus Project"
Chino, Calif

Nice work!
I don't think a shear panel will work in there. Here is how I got around the exhaust on mine. Your problem is a bit more complicated with the turbo.

While you are in there, you might want to think about adding horizontal diagonals at the top rails. This adds mucho stiffness too.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

These pictures give me good ideas.

I will fabricate brackets around the turbo.
Also those horizontal brace bars look like a great idea. Easy add on as well!

_________________
"Don't let the fear of the time it will take to accomplish something stand in the way of your doing it.
The time will pass anyway; we might just as well put that passing time to the best possible use."
— Earl Nightingale

James Cuba
Turbo Rotary "Rotus Project"
Chino, Calif