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Since one of the problems with stock Subaru motors is that their exhaust hang down so low, Kennedy Engineered Products came up with a set of California Air Resources Board (CARB) certified headers for the offroad buggy crowd. Might save the name for future Subaru projects.

Tom

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Sometimes, I'm as confused as a baby in a topless bar.

My short term memory is absolutely horrible and so is my short term memory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG16m2e4O6I

Outfront Motorsports, http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/exhaust_systems.htm has front collector manifolds if you want a really long nose. ..

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"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett

Thanks for the replies!
Miatav8 I love the design so far, I'm going to take and run with that for now. I may try to sync up the rear a bit kinda Lamborghini countach.

The wheelbase from the center hubs is 76inches. The width from the outer part of the stock subaru tires is 66in. If anyone wants any specific photos or dimensions let me know. I have at least another week before my hand heals and I can do real work.

Do note I am aiming to rear mount the radiator to move the cg further back so maybe a roof scoop for that! Like the lotus exige. Note where I live I don't need smog or a real muffler, so currently (for fun not end result) the exhaust is 12 inches long, from turbo outlet to out the side of the frame.

Thanks guys you've been a big help!

Hang a spare tire off the back. The radiator in back will take some work. If you look at the back of trucks and cars on the highway you can see the air pressure is against the back pushing forward. Your going to have to fight that by supplying a lot of air in front of that radiator. Putting the spare back there probably won't hurt the radiator flow, but your well off the beaten path here, you'll just have to find out what you find out!

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

Yo, John-
There are several examples of rear-mounted radiators in hill climb/sprint cars from the UK. Most of them are single seater and use a huge NACA duct in the side opposite the driver to funnel air to the rad. That doesn't really "fit" with your design, although, if you used the "shooting brake" tail that Driven5 mentioned in the aero thread, you could stand the radiator up in the tail and force-feed air to it thru a NACA on the rear roof or one on each rear fender/door. Use a big F-ing fan, too... Google "Ferrari Bread Van" for design inspiration.

A few other thoughts regarding the balancing act: If these other things have been said, I missed them... Rear mounted battery. Rear mounted dry sump tank or Accusump. Rear mounted fuel cell, and if you have a large-ish one and race with it totally full, so much the better. Spare tire goes back there, as Horizenjob mentioned.

I think it's still gonna be an uphill battle to achieve really good balance, as far as race car chassis dynamics go. That said, it can still be a helluva lotta fun in several ways. Figurin' out all this stuff, trying it to see what works, playing around with it on autocross courses, etc. And then, just drivin' the little beastie around, going for cheeseburgers in your handmade car. Sounds like "win-win" to me... Enjoy...

JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

I would be tempted to turn the drivers seat round the other way , flip the diff, flip the transmission with an adaptor plate and go rear engined , what a mother that would be.

Bob

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Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16640&p=187700#p187700

Mancave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/mypic ... ow/mancave

Here it is cleaned up with some subtle practical changes and the spare. Spare looks huge since the car is so small and the tires are massive for such a small car.

Rear rad can be done fairly clean if you don't mind a constant electrical load of 30 or more amps from fans that never shut off with normal power levels, much less tweaked.

Leave an area underneath behind the axle where you can add a steel plate if balance is critical. If it is critical, you won't mind the weight.

We just want you to be aware that having the radiator in the rear is a compromise.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

You have just designed a 1960`s TVR Grantura

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Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16640&p=187700#p187700

Mancave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/mypic ... ow/mancave

Did I mention I love TVRs (what the vette could have been)? What about ham? Cup holders?

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Not sure what your plans are for the car but the minimum wheel base for EMod (Autocross class) is 80". So if you plan to be anywhere near competitive I would try to add 4" to the wheel base.

Not that are cars can compete in the PAX system due to Jeff Kiesel who drives and amazing Bug Eyed sprite and wins at Nationals every year by a large margin. Which in turn ruins the PAX for everyone else.

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

Dwayne Esslinger passed away about a year ago. .. He had a car, Pinto Beans by name, with a rear mounted radiator on a hopped up Ford 2 liter.
It took a much larger radiator than a front mount would have needed but it worked within his needs.
Anther tale of decades ago. ..
Byrd's Exxon, Fiat 850 (lightweight rear engine anyone? hehehehe. ..) Ended up using a HUGE duct thru the cabin directing air into the radiator.
I think it could be done, I think that you should rely on oil cooling to remove more heat than the OEM intended, luckily some Subaru blocks have oil squirters.
http://www.subarugears.com/ makes a reversed R&P setup for the front diff so you can rear mount the engine/trans in 2WD form but I don't know how well it would work as an AWD.

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"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett

On the ballast, a 1/2" x 12" x 36" steel plate weighs about 61 lbs.
Three plates would weigh around 183 lbs.
You could experiment with the affect on control, but design for the possibility.
Who is gonna know?

The Ford econoline pick up truck of the early 60s came with ballast for obvious reasons.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Not being a replica or produced kit automatically relegates the car to B-Mod anyways. Moving the engine forward by 4 inches still might not be a bad idea though. It keeps E-Mod eligibility an option, and improves weight distribution at the same time. Even better if an older body to 'replicate' could be identified that gets it into E-Mod, and eases street registration. While a PITA, extending the front section would also be easier to do now than later.

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-Justin

"Orville Wright did not have a pilots license." - Gordon MacKenzie

So I'm not aiming to do any real sanctioned racing, only track days and to drive on the street. I will review the possibility of making the wheelbase over 80inches but it is not of primary concern to me. It's more of a fun car to race my rich friends around the race tracks. Some of the people I go to the track with have GT3s, 458's, lotus, etc, and here I am with a old 200,000mile E39.

I have made allocations in the rear for up to 300 lbs of ballast to move the cg aft. What will help is since I am going full body I'm using roll cage thickness tubes for a whole roll cage adding lots of weight to the aft section. I don't plan on having the rear mounted on the trunk as I'm not too fond of the look but it may be a requirement. I like the look of the TVR and designs you have shown so that's my current plan, maybe with a front splitter and some form of rear wing for track days.

I still have lots to go, currently finishing up my rear lower control arms, then the rear upper arms. Then the fronts control arms, the rocker arms for inboard suspension, exhaust, revalve engine, and the wires! I have only looked briefly but where is the best place to learn how to make good strong brackets?

Thanks guys!

Brackets? Did he say brackets?!??

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"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett