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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 12:42 pm 
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Location: Houston TX
bought aluminum for floor and body panels -- how far a part should the 1/8 inch pop rivets be spaced? I would also like to use some sort of adhesive to bond the panels to the frame, any ideas?

thanks

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William Keeling
Houston Texas
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 4:19 pm 
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Your asking for the pitch, which is the distance between rivets in a row, center to center.

1" center to center is fine.

As the drill goes through, burrs develop on the opposite side of the sheet.

All the holes need to be drilled then deburred. Thats why cleco's are necessary. Silicone caulk can be applied. There is no need to bond the panels to the chassis.

If you silicone first, clamp, drill and pop as you go, your results may vary.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 10:58 am 
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cut and mounted floors this weekend, also started hard lines in tunnel.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 5:25 pm 
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Sounds like you're making good progress. What material are you using for the floor? If it's aluminum, how are you fastening it to the car?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 5:32 pm 
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1/8 5052 Aluminium -- it looks to be overkill -- but it is to late now -- I screwed it on so I can remove it after I test the car and before powder coating the frame

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William Keeling
Houston Texas
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 5:03 pm 
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Location: Houston TX
tried building gas tank this weekend -- it had too many leaks so I had to hire a pro to make one. Started on the wiring -- this should be fun, not

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William Keeling
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 6:30 pm 
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Use gas tank sealer. That's what the custom bike builders do. I used it too.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 10:43 am 
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JonW wrote:
Use gas tank sealer. That's what the custom bike builders do. I used it too.


it looked like crap too -- I thought of sealer -- I plan on using sealer since the tank is going to be steel

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 10:44 am 
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started the wiring this weekend -- what a pain :)

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 10:59 am 
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I've used a product called "Kreem" (or maybe Kream?) to seal a motorcycle tank that was rusty inside. Worked great. Get it a bike shop, if they still make it.

-dave

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...nowadays people are so intellectually lazy and lethargic that they can't build ANYTHING with their hands. They'll spend hours watching whiny people marooned on an island, but won't spend a second adding anything to the world. -weconway
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 11:32 am 
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Location: Lubbock, TX
If you're going to use a sealer, make sure it's compatible with the various concentrations of alcohol in gasoline. Some aren't.
Go ahead and use whatever cleaner/prep stuff they recommend. You don't want it peeling.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 12:47 pm 
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Location: Houston TX
I am tring to find some small non LED fron turn signal/parking light -- does anyone have any ideas

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Houston Texas
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 2:28 pm 
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There are hundreds of cheap motorcycle indicators on eBay.

If you are looking for 'classic' lights, about all I can think of are Triumph and other British parts.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 3:23 pm 
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I finished enough of the wiring this weekend that I was able to run the engine for the first time since I removed it from the donor (over 2 years) ago. The gas tank is done. I have found all the lights and mounted most. I hope for a test drive by x-mas.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 1:11 pm 
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finished mounting all the lights and 95% done with the wiring -- Hempy is right the wiring can lose over half it's weight -- I hope to post some pics if I can ever remember to take the camara to the shop.

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