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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: November 12, 2017, 8:47 am 
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I'm not sure I uunderstand the question... But, at rest, the shocks are at/near the center of their 5-inch travel.
That what you're asking???

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: November 12, 2017, 8:54 am 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
I'm not sure I uunderstand the question... But, at rest, the shocks are at/near the center of their 5-inch travel.
That what you're asking???

Yes exactly, So you have a 50% droop and 50% bump. According to the Brunton math you should only have 33% or 1.65" or 1-5/8'. Watch that spring rate shoot up when you recalc. (according to him) what you should have on there especially a race car. Oh and I know you will redo the math now. :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: November 12, 2017, 12:35 pm 
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I got it :cheers: :cheers: . it made sense finally. I even got the flat ride built in. I still am into the bigger shock for the front but well deal with it . I have weight set for 2 people in the corner wight played with the droop to get the frequency I was looking for, in the 2.0 range like Dennis is suggesting. I think this is pretty much right. There is a little variable in the front with the shock length and spring length.


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photo1.jpg
photo1.jpg [ 1.01 MiB | Viewed 799 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: November 12, 2017, 7:59 pm 
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I think I have a pretty good idle program going now. Ran the car a lot today. Throttled it up and down and it didn't die so things are going in the right direction i think. also proved the O2 sensor is in fact working. Thats a major relief. The auto tune was working. Didn't drive it though. Tried. It wouldn't go into gear, so now I have to check this out. The clutch must not be pushing hard enough on the pressure plate. I'll have to increase the throw on the pedal and see if that does the trick. The fork moves about 1" maybe a little more. I have no idea how far its supposed to move.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: November 15, 2017, 7:22 pm 
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Okay Clutch WILL NOT disengage. Ive done everything but bleed standing on my head. Need some ideas. everything is brand new. I don't get it. Ever have your eye brow twitch?. Mine is right now!.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: November 15, 2017, 7:36 pm 
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A couple times, I've had a clutch disc "weld" itself to the flywheel if it's been unused for a long period of time. The disc can be broken free by force if you can verify that the pressure plate is being depressed. Or, disassembly is plan B.

Never mind, I went back through your log and see that early this year you put a new flywheel in it, so it's not likely that the disc has corroded itself in-place.


Last edited by seven13bt on November 15, 2017, 8:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: November 15, 2017, 7:39 pm 
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Throw out bearing in backwards?
I did that on my FF. Was wondering what those shiny little balls were, rolling past me on pre-grid :BH:

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: November 15, 2017, 8:35 pm 
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mgkluft wrote:
Throw out bearing in backwards?
I did that on my FF. Was wondering what those shiny little balls were, rolling past me on pre-grid :BH:

Martin that one made me think. I just looked at some pics online of how out bearings. I am going to say no. The fork prongs would hit the fingers otherwise. I may take a spacer and put to between the fork and slave to push a little harder. the bearing rides on the fingers full time anyway i believe.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: November 15, 2017, 8:36 pm 
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seven13bt wrote:
A couple times, I've had a clutch disc "weld" itself to the flywheel if it's been unused for a long period of time. The disc can be broken free by force if you can verify that the pressure plate is being depressed. Or, disassembly is plan B.

Never mind, I went back through your log and see that early this year you put a new flywheel in it, so it's not likely that the disc has corroded itself in-place.

This has never been driven. Only run enough to get idle program on ECU.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: November 17, 2017, 4:37 am 
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Steve,
I too had problems with my slave cylinder. Couldn't get one to work on my Toyota T50 tranny. In frustration I went with a hydraulic throw out from a Saab 900. Was simpler than trying to mate up the parts that were supposed to work

Attachment:
IMG_0650.JPG
IMG_0650.JPG [ 730.85 KiB | Viewed 671 times ]


Have a bunch more photos and info if interested.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: November 17, 2017, 9:34 am 
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benny_toe wrote:
Steve,
I too had problems with my slave cylinder. Couldn't get one to work on my Toyota T50 tranny. In frustration I went with a hydraulic throw out from a Saab 900. Was simpler than trying to mate up the parts that were supposed to work

Attachment:
IMG_0650.JPG


Have a bunch more photos and info if interested.

I saw those a couple years ago for Ford. I didn’t know they made small ones for little tranny’s. I don’t know if they make them for Mazda. If I have to split this apart I’ll look into it. I have one last ditch effort today and if it fails I’ll have to take it apart this winter. Yesterday I met with an upholsterer in Appleton a friend turned me onto. $500 both seats. That’s a deal in a half. Does nice work too. Yesterday I never had a chance to work on this so today is it.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: November 26, 2017, 2:59 pm 
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Started on some sheetmetal. Have about 8hrs in this one and its not done yet. Good thing paint isn't till April.
Found a couple inspiration pics for interior panel and I want to do a roll over edge like the Maserati I found. Looks really cool. Also keeps the seat belts form banging on the side of the car I think too when you take them off and fling'em over the side. Anyone know where you can get nice looking screws (stainless, or chrome) for mounting vinyl like this. I was going to put a 1/4" foam on 1/8" hard board for the interior panel and leave enough to roll over the edge. Need to find some sharp looking screws with nice trim ring on them.


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photo3.jpeg
photo3.jpeg [ 1015.33 KiB | Viewed 605 times ]
File comment: Interior panel with cool mounting screws.
photo1-25.jpg
photo1-25.jpg [ 147.39 KiB | Viewed 605 times ]
File comment: rolled edge
photo1-24.jpg
photo1-24.jpg [ 208.67 KiB | Viewed 605 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: November 26, 2017, 5:14 pm 
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https://www.aircraftspruce.com/categories/aircraft_parts/ap/menus/ha/sheetmetalscrews.html

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: December 5, 2017, 11:50 pm 
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I finally bough my Speed Hut gauges, just wondering how yours were to install?

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: December 5, 2017, 11:57 pm 
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They installed well. I used hole saws they fit tight. I have a couple to tweek. My fuel gauge doesn’t read the sender. I don’t know why. The tach isn’t getting along with megasquit. I think that’s about it. Fixable. Right after I pull my engine and flip the disk and make the clutch work.

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