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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 23, 2018, 6:57 am 
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It could be many things besides beam alignment.
1) Make sure hi and lo are not reversed on the H4 plugs.
2) Voltage drop to the HI beam circuit. Even if the voltage to the plug is acceptable, the real test is the drop when plugged in and on since the HI element pulls more amps than low. Run a jumper from the batt pos to the Hi beam terminal (backprobe) on each head light, set to vdc, and switch on the high beam. The dvm will indicate how much voltage you are losing between the light and the battery through relays, switches, splices, connections, and wire gauge. Check the ground side too, though there is less to go wrong and you said the low beam was fine.
I was just looking through your build topic and found you are using a toggle for hi/lo. The switch should be rated for at least 10 amps at 12-14vdc. The female spade connectors can be pinched a little when disconnected to ensure a tight fit on the spade terminals. A loose connection can melt the switch.
2) The light housing.
Since you have H4 bulbs, you must have an aftermarket bulb housing. Some claim to be Hi/lo and have a single projector bulge in the center but those are really only a single beam with two different filaments. The only way a single bulge projector can be a true hi/lo is to have a servo controlled flap inside that blocks part of the beam for low and would not need to have two filaments.
When it is not so obviously wrong as to have a single bulge, quality also varies in the shape of the reflector and lens. I’ve seen some on Ebay that do not appear to have a reflector that would ensure hi projects any different from low. A better quality housing will have a glass lens versus plastic. I prefer hella brand but there are what appear to be some good housings on ebay, though they are hard to find in a sea of junk.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 23, 2018, 8:23 am 
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Maybe you adjusted the lows a bit high, which gives very good low beam coverage. However, when you go to high beam, you find the tree tops are nicely illuminated.

I think I did this when I installed the LED headlights, but I'm not positive it was not a vivid dream. Getting so it's hard to tell sometimes.

Bill


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 23, 2018, 8:37 am 
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Steve, a little more info beyond
Quote:
Highs not so much.
Do they not illuminate? Are they dim? Are they aimed too high or low or shifted left or right? Do they have the wrong light pattern (for RH drive cars possibly?)?

Kind'a hard to help without better info.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 23, 2018, 9:14 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
It could be many things besides beam alignment.
1) Make sure hi and lo are not reversed on the H4 plugs.
2) Voltage drop to the HI beam circuit. Even if the voltage to the plug is acceptable, the real test is the drop when plugged in and on since the HI element pulls more amps than low. Run a jumper from the batt pos to the Hi beam terminal (backprobe) on each head light, set to vdc, and switch on the high beam. The dvm will indicate how much voltage you are losing between the light and the battery through relays, switches, splices, connections, and wire gauge. Check the ground side too, though there is less to go wrong and you said the low beam was fine.
I was just looking through your build topic and found you are using a toggle for hi/lo. The switch should be rated for at least 10 amps at 12-14vdc. The female spade connectors can be pinched a little when disconnected to ensure a tight fit on the spade terminals. A loose connection can melt the switch.
2) The light housing.
Since you have H4 bulbs, you must have an aftermarket bulb housing. Some claim to be Hi/lo and have a single projector bulge in the center but those are really only a single beam with two different filaments. The only way a single bulge projector can be a true hi/lo is to have a servo controlled flap inside that blocks part of the beam for low and would not need to have two filaments.
When it is not so obviously wrong as to have a single bulge, quality also varies in the shape of the reflector and lens. I’ve seen some on Ebay that do not appear to have a reflector that would ensure hi projects any different from low. A better quality housing will have a glass lens versus plastic. I prefer hella brand but there are what appear to be some good housings on ebay, though they are hard to find in a sea of junk.

Thanks. I did wonder about the switch I’ll have to look and see what it is rated for. All my switches are marine gear. That double may not have the muscle. The housing and bulb came from speedway. The lense and bulb where a set it is all glass and housing is stainless seemed good quality. I had zero issue with the distance and spread of light on low better than my 2013 civic. Ok I have some to go on. Thanks a lot.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 23, 2018, 9:21 am 
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rx7locost wrote:
Steve, a little more info beyond
Quote:
Highs not so much.
Do they not illuminate? Are they dim? Are they aimed too high or low or shifted left or right? Do they have the wrong light pattern (for RH drive cars possibly?)?

Kind'a hard to help without better info.

No they light but dim, real dim. It doesn’t have anything to do with the aiming that is good. Total function here. I am sure it’s total voltage drop. It probably is the switch or the bulb and it’s just a lower budget set up. Which it is. I may have paid $50 for the 2 bulbs. The Hellas that’s where mentioned are really nice kit. So I have some more winter bugs to work on.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 23, 2018, 9:31 am 
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Tundra 7 wrote:
they light but dim, real dim.

When you switch from low beam to high beam, is the low beam filament still energized? It should be. The high beam filament assists the low beam filament to make the head light brighter.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 23, 2018, 10:14 am 
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horchoha wrote:
Tundra 7 wrote:
they light but dim, real dim.

When you switch from low beam to high beam, is the low beam filament still energized? It should be. The high beam filament assists the low beam filament to make the head light brighter.

They go on separately

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 23, 2018, 11:57 am 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
If you don't already (and you probably do), you really need to use a relay to power the lights, with a very stout wire from the battery, through the relay, to the lights. The switch should really function solely to turn power on & off to the relay.

I'd also check the quality of the ground for the headlights. "Brown-outs" in headlights are very often the result of an inadequate ground.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 23, 2018, 12:33 pm 
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zetec7 wrote:
If you don't already (and you probably do), you really need to use a relay to power the lights, with a very stout wire from the battery, through the relay, to the lights. The switch should really function solely to turn power on & off to the relay.

I'd also check the quality of the ground for the headlights. "Brown-outs" in headlights are very often the result of an inadequate ground.

I’ll have to check on the relay. The blinkers are of course but don’t know if I ran the headlights though one.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 25, 2018, 7:56 pm 
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Look what happened here time for the first real oil change. I’ve changed it before but first 500miler. :drive: I thought I would share the roadster kit I put together. It all works great together. A buff for the head, Columbia Omni-shade shirt, Bose Q30’s for tunes and a pair of chuck Taylor’s for the heal-toe action. Ha-Ha where not having any fun. I have to work on the accel enrichment part of the tune next. Pretty well stable up to 5k rpm. Now that I have some miles on I’ll have to check and see if I can start pushing the rpms. I don’t know this


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 26, 2018, 10:15 am 
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Hey, Steve, you're not going to get too cool to hang with us, are you?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 30, 2018, 8:30 am 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
Hey, Steve, you're not going to get too cool to hang with us, are you?

Cheers,

Lonnie I don’t think so. This is as cool as it gets. I had my summer hair cut so I needed to find something for my head to keep from frying it.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 30, 2018, 8:53 am 
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Russ and I had a great drive on Wednesday all through the peninsula of Door county, 1hr north east of Green Bay. My journey started out heading east to Algoma then north through Sturgeon Bay then to Baileys Harbor to meet up with Russ. There aren’t a lot of twisty roads but nice scenery of Lake Michigan. The weather was blue sky and about 80, just beautiful. We had lunch at a brick oven pizza joint to do some catching up and ended up back at his place. About a 3hr drive.
On the way back I noticed a big problem with the engine in front of me flopping around like a fish out of water thinking that never moved around. After assessing I found a broken motor mount. Very strange, do not make them out of stainless The only thing I can think of is the stainless is too brittlexcx. It’s stainless to carbon and I did weld it with 309 filler material. So ended up getting a ride back to Green Bay from Russ and his trailer.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 30, 2018, 8:59 am 
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Thursday was surgery day on the ole shoulder. Won’t be driving for a while. It’s a very attractive sling don’t you think


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 30, 2018, 9:42 am 
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That's beautiful scenery you guys traveled through. Did you ride that ferry boat in the background of one photo?

Too bad about the motor mount. I'm not an expert welder, so I'll leave commenting about the filler material, etc., to those who are. That said, it looks like a pretty heavy load spread out over a relatively small diameter tube. Could adding gussets between the flat plate and the tube help spread out and stabilize the situation? That one weld is doing a lot of work.

What about a solution like this?
Attachment:
Steve's gussets.jpg


Yup, that is one weird and ugh-O sling. I hope it heals fast as a reward for wearing it.

Cheers,


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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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