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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: May 15, 2018, 5:48 pm 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
If that was a red and not an orange color, you could call them I-Tal-Yun driving shoes. My only advise would be "don't wear them to a redneck bar in Montana." There could be trouble. :mrgreen:

Cheers,

Ha. Funny. We have rednecks too. Big guys, big trucks, drag a club and only grunt.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: May 15, 2018, 6:23 pm 
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Joined: December 24, 2007, 5:11 am
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Location: Seattle area
Jack McCornack has a quick align tutorial on his site. Check it out if you haven't already.

I have a slight wander problem but I know I need a lot more caster than I have. The wander was much worse with a little toe-out. Had a race shop do an alignment. Didn't cure all my ills but did help.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: May 15, 2018, 11:59 pm 
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Joined: March 30, 2011, 7:18 am
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Location: central Arkansas
You might try lowering the tire pressure a bit and see if you get some more self-centering. Also, some tires have... it's not "pneumatic trail", but the configuration of the internal belts gives a similar effect. You may find a different brand of tire will have more (or less) self-centering.

If it comes down to it, hey, you already welded up one set of A-arms, it's no trouble to make more...


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: May 16, 2018, 12:09 am 
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Tundra 7 wrote:
Ha. Funny. We have rednecks too. Big guys, big trucks, drag a club and only grunt.


... and that's just the women.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: May 16, 2018, 12:22 am 
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Location: Seattle area
The tech that did my alignment mentioned I should lower the tire pressure to around 16 LBs. Haven't done it yet. Will tomorrow to see what it does.

Have you tried it yet Steve?

Cheers,

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: May 16, 2018, 7:32 am 
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Last night I did a 5 min preliminary check just to see where I am going to start. The camber is off a lot from side to side. I could have sworn it was dead nuts at 1.5degrees. I set a square on the ground and measured top of rim and had 1/2” on one 3/4” on the other. Kinda off, oops. Unless setting it on the ground has an effect. Tire pressure is 12psi and no buldge in side walls. I also picked up some 3/4”x.120 to remake the fender stays. These wiggle a lot. Aluminum for hood. We’ll see how bad I screw this up. And solid 1/2” round SS for head rest mounts. There’s a list for ya.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: May 17, 2018, 10:22 pm 
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I finished the fender stays and was able to lower the fenders and get that low profile I was looking for. The new mounts are like night and day in stiffness so I am very optimistic these are keepers.
Got on the alignment and finished everything but dialing in the toe. I did one method then got a better idea. So I have to finish tomorrow when I can borrow tools from my neighbor. That is the clamp on the level acting as a straight edge. You see the white line. I ran those from the rear and put a straight edge on the side of the wheel and eyeballed it. Your laughing, I know. So I need to double check it with this new and improved method that involves a tape measure!! Yeah! Some sort of accuracy in the caveman methodology. Then we drive. Watch it will pull all over the place. I have that kind of luck. It went straight you know, how I don’t know the toe out was redicoulous, many degrees to the outside. Snow plowing I was.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: May 18, 2018, 12:17 pm 
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The excitement builds. So my straight edges strapped to the tires defiantly worked. Took it for a ride and the toe didn’t change the camber ended up at 1.6 and 1.9 after the suspension settled in. Unreal. This thing handles crazy tight. All the wondering went away, the wheel turns well out of corners so I can tell the caster is pretty decent. I had 6.3 on that yesterday. Wow! What fun!! :D :D

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: May 19, 2018, 9:06 am 
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Outstanding, Steve. Maybe some video next time?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: May 19, 2018, 11:09 am 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Looks great Steve.

I noticed the jam nut missing on the outer tie rod end, but you may have installed it after the pic.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: May 19, 2018, 12:04 pm 
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horchoha wrote:
Looks great Steve.

I noticed the jam nut missing on the outer tie rod end, but you may have installed it after the pic.


I have one on the other side of my extension. Do I need one here too?

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: May 19, 2018, 6:41 pm 
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Yes. There's a small amount of clearance in the threads. If you run without a jam nut, the clearance will increase and the threads get beaten up. With a jam nut the parts can't move in relation to each other.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: May 19, 2018, 11:37 pm 
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TRX wrote:
Yes. There's a small amount of clearance in the threads. If you run without a jam nut, the clearance will increase and the threads get beaten up. With a jam nut the parts can't move in relation to each other.

I get it. I’ll get 2 on there. Thanks. It took a lot to set that toe in. I’ll have to put some dang good marks on there to take it apart.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: May 20, 2018, 1:34 am 
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Tundra 7 wrote:
I’ll have to put some dang good marks on there to take it apart.


It's easy Steve. Put a couple of tram marks on, one on the TRE and one on the ext tube. Did this all the time when taking gas compressor rods/crossheads apart.
Center punch the TRE, then centre punch the ext tube along the same plane. Use a tram (or a set of callipers with the pointed ends) to measure the distance between the two centre punch marks within .001". Write this down, take it apart, install the jam nut, put it back together until the tram marks (centre punch marks) line up and have the same measurement that you wrote down, jam the nut.
Easy peasy, nothing has changed. :cheers:

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"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O.
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: May 20, 2018, 7:30 am 
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horchoha wrote:
Tundra 7 wrote:
I’ll have to put some dang good marks on there to take it apart.


It's easy Steve. Put a couple of tram marks on, one on the TRE and one on the ext tube. Did this all the time when taking gas compressor rods/crossheads apart.
Center punch the TRE, then centre punch the ext tube along the same plane. Use a tram (or a set of callipers with the pointed ends) to measure the distance between the two centre punch marks within .001". Write this down, take it apart, install the jam nut, put it back together until the tram marks (centre punch marks) line up and have the same measurement that you wrote down, jam the nut.
Easy peasy, nothing has changed. :cheers:

That’s awesome. Really. Thanks I’ll do that today.

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