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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 30, 2017, 10:53 am 
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Location: Green Bay, WI
My LED blinkers have white =ground
Red = function 1
Black = function 2.
Hooked up red to parking works and black to blinker it all works. Even 4way flasher. As soon as I turn on the parking light and use blinkers does not work. Now the parking light is on a stand alone toggle because the headlight switch was garbage and I had this on hand. High and low beam are on a on-off-on toggle as well.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 30, 2017, 10:59 am 
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rx7locost wrote:
Steve, I assume you are using real light bulbs and not LED lighting. LED turn signals will not draw enough current to activate the flasher. Try this, Red (B+) goes thru the fuse to the "K" terminal. The blue wire goes to the "L" terminal on the flasher. Without actually checking my setup, I believe the black wire is the return for the internal light bulb indicator. Disconnect the black wire and put it to ground.

See if that works for you.

Chuck


With the new flasher. Blue is on - black is on L and power is on + the module is a novita EP 35 2-4 lamp

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 30, 2017, 11:15 am 
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https://youtu.be/wpTQZRbOjPA I think this is what I need 5 pin relay

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 30, 2017, 2:49 pm 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
Tundra 7 wrote:

With the new flasher. Blue is on - black is on L and power is on + the module is a novita EP 35 2-4 lamp


You don't need the relay. Nor do you need the electronic flasher if you have resistors wired across the lamps correctly.

I looked up the Speedway wiring instructions. Which model do you have? The chrome HD unit 91062860 or the lower priced one 91062850 ?

Once I know that, I can help you thru it.

FYI, the running light on your LED lamps are supposed to be the lower brightness ones. Stop/turn are brighter. You may have the black and red wires reversed. Please verify this.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 30, 2017, 3:48 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
Tundra 7 wrote:

With the new flasher. Blue is on - black is on L and power is on + the module is a novita EP 35 2-4 lamp


You don't need the relay. Nor do you need the electronic flasher if you have resistors wired across the lamps correctly.

I looked up the Speedway wiring instructions. Which model do you have? The chrome HD unit 91062860 or the lower priced one 91062850 ?

Once I know that, I can help you thru it.

FYI, the running light on your LED lamps are supposed to be the lower brightness ones. Stop/turn are brighter. You may have the black and red wires reversed. Please verify this.

I have the first HD unit

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 30, 2017, 4:30 pm 
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I was wrong in my 1st wiring diagram. Do not use it. I hadn't looked at the various schematics at that time and was working of my poor memory. Here is the recommended wiring diagram from Speedway website.
Attachment:
speedway schematic.JPG


Neither the Novita EP35 nor the 2 terminal flasher you mentioned has the capability of lighting the light in the "stick" when wired properly. Note the Blue wire connected to the "P" terminal on the flasher. Neither flasher has the "P" (Panel light) signal. It should light if one or both (as in 4-way emergency flashers) of the directionals are on but will not show which direction.

To reduce any confusion, I would like to show you how to connect one, or the other flasher models, not both. They are hooked up slightly different. Or I can suggest a different flasher that will light up the indictor properly. You chose which of the 3 you would like me to show and I will attempt to describe it.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 30, 2017, 5:20 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
I was wrong in my 1st wiring diagram. Do not use it. I hadn't looked at the various schematics at that time and was working of my poor memory. Here is the recommended wiring diagram from Speedway website.
Attachment:
speedway schematic.JPG


Neither the Novita EP35 nor the 2 terminal flasher you mentioned has the capability of lighting the light in the "stick" when wired properly. Note the Blue wire connected to the "P" terminal on the flasher. Neither flasher has the "P" (Panel light) signal. It should light if one or both (as in 4-way emergency flashers) of the directionals are on but will not show which direction.

To reduce any confusion, I would like to show you how to connect one, or the other flasher models, not both. They are hooked up slightly different. Or I can suggest a different flasher that will light up the indictor properly. You chose which of the 3 you would like me to show and I will attempt to describe it.

I was using my ingenuity and released all the smoke out of the one I bought this morning. So I'll go get what ever you want.

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My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 30, 2017, 5:23 pm 
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Tundra 7 wrote:
rx7locost wrote:
I was wrong in my 1st wiring diagram. Do not use it. I hadn't looked at the various schematics at that time and was working of my poor memory. Here is the recommended wiring diagram from Speedway website.
Attachment:
speedway schematic.JPG


Neither the Novita EP35 nor the 2 terminal flasher you mentioned has the capability of lighting the light in the "stick" when wired properly. Note the Blue wire connected to the "P" terminal on the flasher. Neither flasher has the "P" (Panel light) signal. It should light if one or both (as in 4-way emergency flashers) of the directionals are on but will not show which direction.

To reduce any confusion, I would like to show you how to connect one, or the other flasher models, not both. They are hooked up slightly different. Or I can suggest a different flasher that will light up the indictor properly. You chose which of the 3 you would like me to show and I will attempt to describe it.

I was using my ingenuity and released all the smoke out of the one I bought this morning. So I'll go get what ever you want.

Chuck the resistors I have in the blue and black wire.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 30, 2017, 8:32 pm 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
Steve. I'm sorry you are having such troubles. I'm sure you don't want to open up the switch assy like I did so here is what I propose that should get you full function of the turn signal/brake lights.

If at any time doing the below, you don't get the expected results, stop and leave another note on the forum. or send me a PM.

1) Start by removing the resistors from the blue and black wires.

2) Remove any and all flasher units that you have installed up till now

3) Purchase a CEC EF33RL flasher http://ceclighting.com/pdfs/EF33RL.pdf or United Pacific 90651 from Amazon or your favorite supplier. This flasher is rated for LED's , has 3 terminals marked X ( for B+ power) L (for load) and P for panel light. There is also a ground wire on the flasher itself that needs to go to chassis ground.

4) Remove the wiring from one of the LED turn signals (not the switch, the actual light assembly) and verify that when you apply ground to the white wire and 12V to the black wire, the light illuminates. Then remove 12V from the black wire and put it on the red wire. The light should light again, only brighter. if so, then only wire up the white and red wires. Do not connect the black wires at this time.

5) Wire the flasher according to the Speedway diagram I posted above. The wires from the turn signal switch should go to the red wires on your lights. Do not connect the black wires at this time.

6) Check and double check the wiring.

7) Turn on the ignition and try the turn signal switch. Both front and rear lights on each side should flash according to the direction you flip the stick. And the light on the switch assy should flash too.

-8) Then try the 4-way flashers. All corners should be flashing as well as the light on the switch assy.

9) Turn the signals off and try the brakes. Only the rear lights should light.

10) Holding the brake on, test the turn signal switch again. If you turned it down, the front and rear left lights should be flashing and the right rear light should be constantly on.

11) Connect the running light wire to one corner only and turn on the running lights. The dim element should light.

12) Then test steps 7 thru 10 with the running light on.

13) Connect the running light wires to the remaining 3 corner lights and retest 7-10 again.

Everything should now be working. I did read on Speedway's website that they have a similar flasher to the CEC EF33RL. But in the Q and A section they said it did not work with either of their turn signal switches. That doesn't make sense to me. It should. It makes me a bit cautious about the above instructions.

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 30, 2017, 8:47 pm 
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I forgot. Be sure to ground the case of the switch assembly in order for the internal indicator light to light.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 30, 2017, 9:01 pm 
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Location: Green Bay, WI
rx7locost wrote:
Steve. I'm sorry you are having such troubles. I'm sure you don't want to open up the switch assy like I did so here is what I propose that should get you full function of the turn signal/brake lights.

If at any time doing the below, you don't get the expected results, stop and leave another note on the forum. or send me a PM.

1) Start by removing the resistors from the blue and black wires.

2) Remove any and all flasher units that you have installed up till now

3) Purchase a CEC EF33RL flasher http://ceclighting.com/pdfs/EF33RL.pdf or United Pacific 90651 from Amazon or your favorite supplier. This flasher is rated for LED's , has 3 terminals marked X ( for B+ power) L (for load) and P for panel light. There is also a ground wire on the flasher itself that needs to go to chassis ground.

4) Remove the wiring from one of the LED turn signals (not the switch, the actual light assembly) and verify that when you apply ground to the white wire and 12V to the black wire, the light illuminates. Then remove 12V from the black wire and put it on the red wire. The light should light again, only brighter. if so, then only wire up the white and red wires. Do not connect the black wires at this time.

5) Wire the flasher according to the Speedway diagram I posted above. The wires from the turn signal switch should go to the red wires on your lights. Do not connect the black wires at this time.

6) Check and double check the wiring.

7) Turn on the ignition and try the turn signal switch. Both front and rear lights on each side should flash according to the direction you flip the stick. And the light on the switch assy should flash too.

-8) Then try the 4-way flashers. All corners should be flashing as well as the light on the switch assy.

9) Turn the signals off and try the brakes. Only the rear lights should light.

10) Holding the brake on, test the turn signal switch again. If you turned it down, the front and rear left lights should be flashing and the right rear light should be constantly on.

11) Connect the running light wire to one corner only and turn on the running lights. The dim element should light.

12) Then test steps 7 thru 10 with the running light on.

13) Connect the running light wires to the remaining 3 corner lights and retest 7-10 again.

Everything should now be working. I did read on Speedway's website that they have a similar flasher to the CEC EF33RL. But in the Q and A section they said it did not work with either of their turn signal switches. That doesn't make sense to me. It should. It makes me a bit cautious about the above instructions.


Wow!! Awesome Chuck thank you very much. I'll print this and find a flasher.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 5, 2017, 7:42 pm 
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Chuck is an electrical God!! all the wire is pulled front to back, all the lights work the way their supposed to. one little flasher is all it took and with Chucks instructions it almost put it self together.
Ordered my gauge package today from Speedhut, 20-30 days on that. Tomorrow tidy up wiring and I may dive into the rear sheetmetal wrap that way I can get the reverse lights in and wired with the license plate lights.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 5, 2017, 8:23 pm 
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Glad it worked out for you.

Keep up the good fight and don't let up until she is ready for the road. I bet you can almost smell the tires burn.

:zoom:

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 6, 2017, 9:51 am 
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:yay: Way to go!

I'm wiring challenged too. I did fine with electricity in university physics, and was able to model circuits using differential equations, etc., etc. However, the practical design, construction, and debugging, of automotive circuits is a very different animal. I suspect you'll read a lot of whining and crying in my build log when I get there. :lol:

Stay well, Chuck! :mrgreen:

Cheers,

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 6, 2017, 10:08 am 
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Tundra 7 wrote:
Chuck is an electrical God!!
Amen and Hallelujah to that! Chuck even directed me and Bubba on wiring up an alternator... I'm pretty sure he's too smart to hang around with Team Slotus, but I'm also damned glad he does!

:cheers:

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