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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 21, 2017, 5:12 pm 
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turbo_bird wrote:
You don't even need to buy a scale of you can do a hanging one, a beam scale is really simple to build yourself. Just need a known weight, a beam to hang everything from, and a bit of measuring and math. My brother did that when he weighed his offroad truck in the shop, worked great.
Kristian

That would be cool

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 21, 2017, 5:43 pm 
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For some other ideas on corner scales, see this old post of mine:
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=12334&hilit=scale

At the time, it was just an idea I got based on the UK site version that used a brake cylinder and a pressure gauge. . JPSEuropa actually built my version and proved that it worked. However he said it suffered from not having a readout with a good resolution. Since then I have gotten a digital readout torque meter from HF. It should solve that readout issue.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 21, 2017, 10:35 pm 
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I finally got some help. My family showed up from being gone for a week. So with 2 of us in the car and a full propane cylinder in the back for 1/2 tank of fuel simulation
i had RF 317 RR 384 Total 1440.
LF 335 LR 404
Man that just seems heavy. Oh well. With a 5" travel shock and 30% droop 42 degree angle 800lb spring gives me 223 wheel rate for the front
For the rear 5" shock 25% droop 20 degree angle gives me 364lb spring and a 320 wheel rate. Does any of this seem a skew?.
for weight values i used 335 front 400 rear live axle.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 22, 2017, 8:05 am 
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Steve
Your wheel rates seem to be pretty high. I'm assuming you are taking into account for the length of the C/arm leverage or any axle/wheel offset?
Both of my wheel rates are in the 130 to 140 range. I do not think I would want to go much higher for a road car. (Unladen wt 1270lbs) Dave W


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 22, 2017, 8:49 am 
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davew wrote:
Steve
Your wheel rates seem to be pretty high. I'm assuming you are taking into account for the length of the C/arm leverage or any axle/wheel offset?
Both of my wheel rates are in the 130 to 140 range. I do not think I would want to go much higher for a road car. (Unladen wt 1270lbs) Dave W

Ok Dave this is what I was looking for. I have no idea what that number means in a real life application. I put my My C Arm D1,D2 measurements in there. Ill play with it to see how I can get those numbers down. So if I have 6" of travel do you use all of it in the shock measurement or not. Should I be using 4 or 5" because in the formula it makes a big difference. Thanks Man.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 22, 2017, 12:56 pm 
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So the travel value and droop is garbage that Brunton was giving me? I just read a Hypercoil article on springs and shocks that said 45-50% of the shaft length you want set at ride height. That is huge. Dennis said you only want 1" droop. Unless I have this all wrong with a shock set at ride height with a 6' travel you will have 3" compression and 3" rebound. I have 12" C-C on the mounts so a 12" shock set at 50% droop sets the piston in the middle of the travel. Dennis told me go with a 4.5" travel shock and 1" droop. Guidance Please!. Now I know he raced a lot and a good handling car is what you want but i need to keep the fillings in my teeth too.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 23, 2017, 8:30 am 
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Steve
With that much shock travel your 50% jounce / rebound ratio should be OK.
My guess is that your coil over attachment point dims are not correct.

What is your distance from the C/A pivot to the shock, and to the lower ball joint.
Are you sure about the spring rate? A 800lb spring is what a stock car would use.

If all else fails ,I have a suspension spring tester, and could verify the actual rate of your spring or measure the spring coils, wire size and calculate the rate.
Dave W


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 23, 2017, 5:39 pm 
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Tundra 7 wrote:
So the travel value and droop is garbage that Brunton was giving me? I just read a Hypercoil article on springs and shocks that said 45-50% of the shaft length you want set at ride height. That is huge. Dennis said you only want 1" droop. Unless I have this all wrong with a shock set at ride height with a 6' travel you will have 3" compression and 3" rebound. I have 12" C-C on the mounts so a 12" shock set at 50% droop sets the piston in the middle of the travel. Dennis told me go with a 4.5" travel shock and 1" droop. Guidance Please!. Now I know he raced a lot and a good handling car is what you want but i need to keep the fillings in my teeth too.

The typical standard for shocks is 2/3 in compression and 1/3 in extension (droop). The reality is you need just enough droop to keep your unloaded wheel on the ground when cornering and enough compression to make sure you do not bottom out the shock on full load or bumps (you can also use bump stops) if you don't have a lot of travel.

I doubt you will get 6" of travel on your shocks. With my push rod suspension I have about 1.2: motion ratio (more shock than wheel movement) and I only get about 2" of compression, maybe 3" of total travel. Traditionally mounted shocks with about 0.7:1 MR only get about 2" of total travel.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 23, 2017, 6:29 pm 
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davew wrote:
Steve
With that much shock travel your 50% jounce / rebound ratio should be OK.
My guess is that your coil over attachment point dims are not correct.

What is your distance from the C/A pivot to the shock, and to the lower ball joint.
Are you sure about the spring rate? A 800lb spring is what a stock car would use.

If all else fails ,I have a suspension spring tester, and could verify the actual rate of your spring or measure the spring coils, wire size and calculate the rate.
Dave W

My distance from pivot to Center of ball joint is 16" Center to pivot to shock mount is 14". My shocks are at 42degrees can't be that different than others. I think its the formula thats bad. , Bruntons excel program uses Pivot point to center of tire for the D2 measurement and a few other calculators use D2 as pivot point to the Ball joint. In my case thats 3". a very different spring rate is given as your answer. Its the difference between a 600-700lb spring to 350-400lb spring. the rear is way different too. I think ill be using the spring companies formulas and wheel frequencies than Dennis. The 2 are like night and day.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 23, 2017, 6:40 pm 
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wrightcomputing wrote:
Tundra 7 wrote:
So the travel value and droop is garbage that Brunton was giving me? I just read a Hypercoil article on springs and shocks that said 45-50% of the shaft length you want set at ride height. That is huge. Dennis said you only want 1" droop. Unless I have this all wrong with a shock set at ride height with a 6' travel you will have 3" compression and 3" rebound. I have 12" C-C on the mounts so a 12" shock set at 50% droop sets the piston in the middle of the travel. Dennis told me go with a 4.5" travel shock and 1" droop. Guidance Please!. Now I know he raced a lot and a good handling car is what you want but i need to keep the fillings in my teeth too.

The typical standard for shocks is 2/3 in compression and 1/3 in extension (droop). The reality is you need just enough droop to keep your unloaded wheel on the ground when cornering and enough compression to make sure you do not bottom out the shock on full load or bumps (you can also use bump stops) if you don't have a lot of travel.

I doubt you will get 6" of travel on your shocks. With my push rod suspension I have about 1.2: motion ratio (more shock than wheel movement) and I only get about 2" of compression, maybe 3" of total travel. Traditionally mounted shocks with about 0.7:1 MR only get about 2" of total travel.

Thats a good gauge of travel that is in the back of my mind. Even though I have the A arm travel of 6" will you use it? NO. I know that. So What you see is real life. Very nice. Thanks

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 24, 2017, 10:47 am 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
turbo_bird wrote:
You don't even need to buy a scale of you can do a hanging one, a beam scale is really simple to build yourself. Just need a known weight, a beam to hang everything from, and a bit of measuring and math. My brother did that when he weighed his offroad truck in the shop, worked great.
Kristian


This sounds good, Kristian. Do you have an example or photos?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 25, 2017, 10:28 am 
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microsquirt time. It will be a miracle to see it all come together. Have more confidence I know.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 25, 2017, 11:24 pm 
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Looks great from here!

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: August 6, 2017, 10:30 am 
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I am about half way through this Microsquirt hopefully its not looking like too much of a mess. I am trying really hard to keep it in some sort of neatness. So far I've been able to calibrate the Coolant sensor and TPS and downloaded the software. It doesn't seem too difficult but I haven't put values in for much yet. Had to send for some resistors and a diode. Since Radio Shack folded no one carries this stuff. I also had to abandon the Ford coil and go to this tower coil(which is much better I know). It was impossible to find a plug for the Ford coil. This is a VW coil that Microsquirt manual recommended for ease of install. Only a 4 wire connection and the computer reads it directly. The connections left are IAT, O2(I have to order yet) coil, and cam sensor. Another parts order for collector with muffler , o2 controller, IAT and intake tube are needed to finish this stuff up. I had to go back to work on Friday so thats a real bummer. Now this goes back to weekends and trying to fit in during the week.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: August 7, 2017, 11:19 am 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
What was your experience level with electronics and fuel injection prior to starting this journey with Microsquirt? I'm just curious because of my own future choice that must be made. I have all my Ford Mustang ACU/harneses, sensors, etc., but was wondering if a simple aftermarket choice might be better for me in the long run. I'm at a low level of expertise with respect to electronics and EFI myself.

If you'r einexperienced, I'd be interested in how it has been for you.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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