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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: May 11, 2015, 9:51 pm 
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Well guys now a multifaceted problem. Chuck, I went out to put the arm back together after welding everything out Saturday morning and warpage has occurred somewhere. The hole that fits the helm joint is no where near fitting. Now were into cutting, great these tubes don't exactly cut out well. So I need a new design as well.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: May 12, 2015, 3:05 pm 
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Location: Green Bay, WI
a.moore wrote:
I think you're going to have issues with those upper front arms. Since the two inner bolts aren't on the same axis, you're asking for a lot of deflection from the bushing. You can get away with that orientation with rod-ends since they have three degrees of freedom but bushings really only give you one degree (rotation about the bolt's axis).


Do you think this set up would work with rod ends? If I take the small arm leg and put a clevis as well as a rod end on the frame attachment and swing it to the left 10 degrees do you think it would loosen the bind you seeing and keep my adjustability

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 7, 2015, 4:53 pm 
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Ok this weekend I was back at it. New brackets and new design. I got an extra inch of travel out of this a full 6" from I think 5". Static caster is 6.5 and camber 1.5. It is a pain to adjust but I think once set its done. Now you guys can beat this up if you want to.
Ill trim off the protruding tube and flapper wheel it all smooth as soon as the welding is finished. Ran out of time for that today.

(if you open pics in new window they flip up right)


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 22, 2015, 8:45 pm 
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I got to spend yesterday in the shop getting the passenger side A arm fitted. It all worked out well Including my new beer mug which is awesome.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: June 23, 2015, 9:40 pm 
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After cleaning up the A arm I still have to fill in some, I think with end caps and a little more flapper wheel to round them out they will look pretty good. I wasn't real excited about this design but it it functional. Now after seeing how they clean up I'am ok with it. After powder coat it will all come together.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 8, 2015, 9:41 pm 
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Cleaned up the control arms and started mocking up the steering. I was able to achieve zero deflection in toe on full down stroke and had 1/16" toe out on full up stroke if I stayed with in a 4-5in. stroke up and down I had zero toe deflection. but I have zero Ackerman. SO is my rack too short? I took 2.5" out of the rack and it falls right were I was planning. I guess my line I picked was off between the plane of the upper and lower control arm. Go ahead and chime. :shock:


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 8, 2015, 11:33 pm 
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Location: Seattle area
Hey Steve,

I think the control arms look great and the bra@%ts more than adequate. As for Ackerman or the lack there of, I'm not sure if I have any either. A method that I just recently found out, is to angle the tie rods slightly forward. To achieve that for me would require moving the rack back a little. Not sure I want to take that on at this stage.

Keep on keepin' on, looking good!

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 9, 2015, 5:42 am 
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Thanks Larry. I started with the rack about 3" back and 1"higher than where it ended up. The toe just flew around very pronounced. I had 5/16" deflection. So moved it up that was worse. Finally it dawned on me, hey dummy you have to lengthen the arms. Move it down and forward. Problem solved, no more toe movement on the up and down. What is their is so slight I had to measure because you can't see it. Wounderful I lost all the Ackerman I had laid out.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 9, 2015, 4:25 pm 
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Front to rear location of the steering rack shouldn't change the amount of bump steer you have, as long as your suspension arms pivot on an axis that is parallel to the centerline of the car and horizontal. And looking at your steering arms, it looks like you should still have some Ackerman in your steering because the tie rod pivot is further out from the centerline than the steering axis.
Kristian

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 9, 2015, 5:32 pm 
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So I have another 1/2-3/4" to pull forward yet. I thought the Ackerman was coming from the rack being behind the center of pivot. It can be ahead also?

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 9, 2015, 6:27 pm 
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Steve,

It's my understanding and I have been wrong before, that the horizontal rack position has more to do with bump steer than Ackerman. It's the angle of the tie rods that affect Ackerman.

Like I said.wouldn't be the first time I erred.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 9, 2015, 8:06 pm 
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Ok. The book doesn't detail the give and take of a suspension. But as I stand now is vertully no bump. Zero on bottom cycle and 1/16" on full top. If that's ever reached a missed turn would have happened and corn in the face would be the next thing trough the windscreen. Thad what happens when you miss turns in Wisconsin. :cheers:

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 9, 2015, 10:50 pm 
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A Very good friend of mine is helping me with the seats among other things on this car. This afternoon was mock up on the seats just because were getting to that part. I foresee a nose cone, scuttle, steering column, and seats being the main focus from here.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 10, 2015, 12:23 am 
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Looks like a good friend to have!

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 10, 2015, 8:38 am 
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Looking at the seat back in the picture and the seat bottom, it appears that the back was done on an English wheel. If that is the case I'd really like to see more pictures as the metal work goes on. I think there might be one or two others here that would like to see as well. :wink:

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