LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently April 17, 2024, 8:21 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 26 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: July 6, 2015, 7:03 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: March 21, 2015, 7:13 pm
Posts: 41
Hello Everyone,

First off my name is Alec, I am 21 and am currently studying marketing at ETSU, and I am building a Lotus 7. I have always loved working on cars from my 1973 MG Midget to my 1984 Ford F150 prerunner, to more modern things like a brand new C7 Corvette. Here is what I have done on my chassis from start up to where it sits as of now.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
Build Log
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17466


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 6, 2015, 7:16 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: March 21, 2015, 7:13 pm
Posts: 41
Still adding pictures


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
Build Log
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17466


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 6, 2015, 7:37 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 29, 2006, 9:10 pm
Posts: 3164
Location: Oregon, usually
Welcome aboard, Alec! I like everything on your car but the front shock placement. :)

_________________
Locost builder and adventurer, and founder (but no longer owner) of Kinetic Vehicles


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 7, 2015, 5:08 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: March 21, 2015, 7:13 pm
Posts: 41
More pictures.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
Build Log
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17466


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 7, 2015, 5:12 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: March 21, 2015, 7:13 pm
Posts: 41
Continued


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
Build Log
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17466


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 7, 2015, 5:33 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: March 21, 2015, 7:13 pm
Posts: 41
Last upload of pictures for now, well at least until I download my other pictures from the camera. As of right now I am looking at adding a turbocharger to my miata engine. I was looking at either using a TD04 off of a Subaru or a Garrett T25 off of a Nissan, and obviously changing my ECU to something like a megasquirt or similar, but I was wondering if anybody else has tried to add a turbo to a miata 1.6 in a Haynes chassis and if so what guidance could you bestow upon me it would be greatly appreciated. I know some people say that the 1.6 is not great for adding a turbo to but Mazda just took the turbocharger off of the 323 engine when they put it in the miata, so it already has things like piston oil squirters and a low CR that begs for it to be boosted. And lets be real 90 HP is kind of weak especially since the engine has probably lost a few of those horses over its 35 year life, but I would love to get around 180-200 to make it comparable to say a Caterham. Thanks in advance.

And yes I know that there are non-Lotus pictures in this post, but I decided to pull the engine out of my 1984 F150 prerunner and build a monster 351W. I know it is not the most practical thing to do because it is my daily, but eh it is something I have always wanted to do. The engine is getting a new forged crank, Eagle forged rods, flat top pistons, a .060 overbore and hone, a brand new hydraulic roller retro-fit camshaft, up top it is getting a set of Trick Flow's 170 CNC chambered heads that should make around 10.8 : 1 compression, with scorpion roller rockers, and to top it off it is getting an Edelbrock RPM AirGap Manifold and 700 carb. So it should have some kick now. But the fabrication on the truck is coming along nicely too, with a brand new collapsible light rack that holds 6 lights, btw it only barely fits in my garage now with only about a quarter inch to spare. But the sad thing is my Lotus project will be a little slowed down until I get this all put back together.

Keen viewers will notice that I have two very different sized vehicles in the 6th picture down, when I saw the two side by side I really stared to appreciate the genius of Colin Chapman and his motto of "Simplify and add lightness," my little Lotus 7 replica really follows the "add lightness" part of his ideal.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
Build Log
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17466


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 7, 2015, 7:57 pm 
Offline

Joined: May 13, 2009, 6:04 pm
Posts: 163
Location: Missouri
I'm closing in on completing my Miata based build as well. Take a look at some pics in my build log for how I handled the turbo. Looking through your pics it looks like your engine is much further forward. That should make steering column routing a little easier, but might leave turbo to bonnet (hood) clearance a little tight. I can give you a couple dimensions if it helps.

_________________
My build http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7370


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 7, 2015, 11:19 pm 
Offline

Joined: April 14, 2010, 8:36 am
Posts: 30
Beautiful work so far! I'm doing a Haynes myself and ended up getting all of the drivetrain mounted before I started the control arms. I recently finished the front but have been putting off the back. Any chance you could share what your rear lower control arm length is from pivot to pivot? I'm also using the Miata diff and had an extremely similar design in mind, but was struggling with finding the appropriate control arm length.

_________________
Haynes/Saturn F20C Build Log: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17008


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 8, 2015, 6:07 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: March 21, 2015, 7:13 pm
Posts: 41
rsmith2786: Ya I would be glad to go and measure them up when I get home, dont quote me on this but I am pretty sure that the manual's lengths are actually perfect for stock miata driveshafts, but i will go double check for you. And just as an aside, I actually work for JD Squared... my neighbor is the owner, its a small world huh? He was the one who actually introduced me to the idea of building my Roadster. I was also combing through your build and I like the way you made your front diff support, I did something similar and will try and get a few pics up. I dont know about you but finding a way to mount the miata diff in our chassis and keep enough room to have a fuel cell has been the most time-consuming part of my build, again I will try and throw up a few pictures when I get your measurements.

jaf: Your composite work is ridiculous!! Is it something that you would recommend or would you say go aluminum? I was looking into doing a dash and the firewall portion of my scuttle in carbon. When you ordered your kit did you have them just piece together the major components like turbo, flanges, oil and coolant lines, and other little odds and ends, and leave off things like the down-pipe, manifold, and other fabricated parts; or did you make them work? Also are you running a standalone ECU and bigger injectors? I would agree that my engine is a little further, I hope it does help with my steering routing, I have been eyeballing that and wondering how I am going to route everything. Ya I would love any weird or tight dimensions that you could give me when I get to that point. Thanks

_________________
Build Log
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17466


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 9, 2015, 5:00 am 
Offline
We are Slotus!
User avatar

Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
Posts: 7651
Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Mornin!
Another new build... Cool!!! Good to see you and Ryan starting to build. Looks like you're making good progress. That's cool, and hang in there when the other parts of the build seem to be taking forever... :mrgreen:

I'll be lookin' forward to more updates, keep us posted, and good luck!
:cheers:
JDK

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 9, 2015, 2:38 pm 
Offline

Joined: April 14, 2010, 8:36 am
Posts: 30
I'm loving the bender. I was sad to see a 3 week lead time on website but then it arrived 2 days after I put in the order. I was so thrilled as it pushed up completion of the control arms considerably. You don't have a 1.5'' die you could lend me...haha.

I actually just posted about how I did the fuel tank. It was a compromise but I think it should work nicely. The CG is high, but mine will mostly be a street car.

_________________
Haynes/Saturn F20C Build Log: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17008


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 9, 2015, 7:55 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: March 21, 2015, 7:13 pm
Posts: 41
Hey Ryan I measured my rear lower CA's and my memory was right, they are 391 mm just like the book's lower rear CA's. I definitely know what you mean about trying to figure out how to mount up the rear fuel cell while still being able to service the diff in case I plan on switching to a more robust Torsen unit in the future since the little 1.6 diff apparently likes to spontaneously explode even with stock power output... And sadly no I do not have any dies to led out because my neighbor wont let me buy anything from him, he wants me to just use the R&D benders and tools, but I sort of like collecting my own tools just for future use. Its a curse and a blessing. That Model 32 is a capable little sucker too, I've used it to bend multiple 2" tubes for my truck and it didn't hesitate at all, and I'm glad you're liking it so far, that is what I love to hear. But how did you end up supporting the bottom of your fuel cell? I will show you how I did mine in some of the attached pictures, what I ended up doing was copying a style of mount that or '75 Chevy dump-truck has, where the tank rests on two supports and then the straps are tucked under a stay and the rear bolts to a couple weld-nuts. I ended up cantilevering my main supports and gusseted them and one will support me (190 lbs) so I figured two will have no problem supporting a little 8 gallon fuel cell.

Gonzo thanks for the positive feedback and I will keep my thread updated as often as I can.

Also if anyone could tell me how to insert images not as attachments I would love that. Thanks And sorry in advance for the poor cell phone camera quality on this batch, I dont know why they look grainy and some of the others previous ones dont. And I know the first picture isnt exactly Lotus related but hey its a high performance engine, whats not to love about that? haha


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
Build Log
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17466


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 9, 2015, 9:14 pm 
Offline

Joined: April 14, 2010, 8:36 am
Posts: 30
Perfect and thanks for checking. Rear control arms and steering rack mount are at the top of my to-do list. Right now the tank is only supported from above, just hanging really. I could easily add some "bumpers" on the bottom though. It feels solid now but you're right, I should have something for it to rest on and take the weight.

_________________
Haynes/Saturn F20C Build Log: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17008


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 10, 2015, 9:14 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
Posts: 1880
Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
Alec
It's not a good idea to have two rubber mounts and one solid mount on the diff case. I would suggest that you find a rubber bushing that can replaced the attachment or modified for the current diff nose mount design to allow for some compliance. Dave W


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 10, 2015, 4:13 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: March 21, 2015, 7:13 pm
Posts: 41
davew wrote:
Alec
It's not a good idea to have two rubber mounts and one solid mount on the diff case. I would suggest that you find a rubber bushing that can replaced the attachment or modified for the current diff nose mount design to allow for some compliance. Dave W


Hey Dave, I know that partial rubber, partial solid mounting things is a problem; I am planning on either using a set of delrin or aluminum solid mount bushings, and honestly the diff was free if I screw up the case I will yank the guts and design and machine another case for it. I wanted to use that heim joint so I can tweak my pinion angle, which gets harder if I solid mount it but half a turn either way wont hurt anything right? On my truck I am running all solid mounts, it is noisy and vibrates a lot, but there is something satisfying about watching the whole car load up the suspension from the torque. :D

Thanks for the input though, let me know if there is anything else you see that I might consider changing from your personal use I love getting feedback.

_________________
Build Log
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17466


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 26 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 48 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
POWERED_BY