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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 9, 2016, 2:44 am 
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A couple thoughts, its going to be very difficult to use an engine host on that table due to the low ground clearance and I'd strongly recommend the Explorer diff cover. Who knows, maybe you have an overhead lift, just thought I'd mention it know when its easy to change.

Good luck.

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PostPosted: January 9, 2016, 9:10 pm 
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Trochu wrote:
A couple thoughts, its going to be very difficult to use an engine host on that table due to the low ground clearance and I'd strongly recommend the Explorer diff cover. Who knows, maybe you have an overhead lift, just thought I'd mention it know when its easy to change.

Good luck.


I actually installed an I-beam in the ceiling and and have a carriage with a ATV winch. I'll get pics of that up when I get a chance.


esp42089 wrote:
are the legs 2x8? I'm worried that 2x8 is just too flimsy. Surely you can find some old 12x12 railroad ties to hold the table up. :lol:

All joking aside, the table looks nice. Are the I-beams nice and straight? Sometimes they sag if they've been inappropriately stored in transit or storage (bottom of a stack of steel, unsupported for example).

You should get melamine instead of MDF. The white top is an epoxy treatment that is surprisingly durable. A foundry I worked at used the stuff all the time because it would scorch but not burn when molten metal was spilled on it. Could brush the frozen metal off and keep using it. Welding sparks and grinding just bounce off it. a 3/4"x4'x8' sheet is typically $25-30 around here.


I pick the c-channel out myself from my local supply house. Nice and straight. Only problem I had was i welded a bow in the middle. Luckily I noticed it quickly and was able to fix it.

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 Post subject: Re: Progress feels good
PostPosted: January 10, 2016, 1:11 pm 
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stuie84 wrote:
Table is done. Now to slap on a little MDF and do a little more clean up.

Tubes going width wise are for 1 1/4 hitch attachments. IE vises and other tools i do not wish to leave stationary.

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Time for a beer!
:cheers:

If that table is as flat as it looks. Which looks sweet by the way. Just use it and ditch the wood. That way you can tack your metal down to it. use a thin wheel and clean up with a flapper. grounding is nice too your whole table is live that way.

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PostPosted: January 10, 2016, 6:28 pm 
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Trochu wrote:
A couple thoughts, its going to be very difficult to use an engine host on that table due to the low ground clearance and I'd strongly recommend the Explorer diff cover. Who knows, maybe you have an overhead lift, just thought I'd mention it know when its easy to change.

Good luck.



Is this the diff cover you meant?
Attachment:
211mjwi.jpg


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PostPosted: January 10, 2016, 7:57 pm 
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stuie84 wrote:
Is this the diff cover you meant?


Yes, I'd strongly recommend it for the $90 or so it costs, and think J.D., Marcus, Tom amongst others who have utilized the 8.8 would agree.

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PostPosted: January 14, 2016, 9:43 pm 
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My wonderful wife bought me a "congratulations, your are building your very own car" present.

Attachment:
IMG_2010 (Small).JPG


Whelp back to gluing more metal
:cheers:


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PostPosted: January 14, 2016, 10:11 pm 
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stuie84 wrote:
My wonderful wife bought me a "congratulations, your are building your very own car" present.

You sure it's not a "That's nice Dear, just don't burn the house down" present?? :wink:

Awesome looking table and kudos for the "I" beam in the rafters. Always wanted that option for my dream garage. Sigh... One day!!

Great start to the build.... future looking bright... bring shades!!!

K "bad 80s reference" S

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PostPosted: January 15, 2016, 4:14 am 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
Seems like she's trying to tell you something...or it's foreshadowing :shock:

As far as the I-beam in the ceiling thing is concerned, this is what I did. It could be added to any existing shop with rafters IMHO, and was stupid cheap to do. I picked up the 110V hoist at Princess Auto (more or less the Canadian version of Harbor Freight) for around $49. The "beam" is actually heavy-duty barn door roller track, supported on the trusses by 4 T-bars I welded up - they're bolted through the truss rafters, which I doubled up in the sections the T-bars are bolted through.

The rollers are a pair of 4-wheel trucks, designed to be used with this rail. Both the rail & trucks were purchased at my local hardware store.

Total run length of the rail is about 18 feet, and the hoist will lift 660 lbs. I can easily lift a motor & trans and, with one finger, push it as far as I like. The hoist uses a cabled remote for controls.

As I was concerned about deflection in the rafters, I used a laser level to check for this. With the weight of an engine, plus my 210 lbs., there was zero deflection. Considering that the track is supported by 4 separate T-bars, and the max lift capacity of the hoist is 660 lbs., each supporting rafter only has to support 165 lbs., an insignificant weight for these engineered trusses (I did inquire with the company that built them. They laughed, and said "Go ahead. That just won't be a problem.").

Anyway, here's a couple of pics...

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PostPosted: January 15, 2016, 10:54 am 
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GAAAHHHH!!!!

I used a steel I-beam, recoiled at the price of trolleys, and spent far more time building my own than it was worth... and mine never has to lift more than a couple hundred pounds, I put it up so I could move stuff around machine tools.

I've been thinking about putting up another beam and trolley; I'm going to steal your design.


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PostPosted: January 15, 2016, 2:04 pm 
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Please do! This track is supposedly able to hold up thousand-pound barn & hangar doors, so it's plenty strong enough for engine lifting. IIRC, it cost about $150 or so for the whole works, trucks included. The stuff is surprisingly light, too. I was worried about using I-beam (my original plan), as it was monstrously heavy, and I didn't feel there'd be much strength left over in the trusses for lifting. I'd be surprised if the whole track I used weighs more than 20 lbs. or so.

The most time-consuming part was making sliders, for inside the track, to route the long power cord I connected it with. I had this vision of sliding the hoist out to the end of the track, paying out the cord in loops as it went, and closing the loops as it was pushed back the opposite way. I could have made them out of pretty much anything but, overthinking it as usual, I made a few sliders out of PTFE (Teflon) from a cast-off chunk I had laying around the shop. It did, indeed, work as I'd planned, although I could have made them out of wood or pretty much anything.

But, as my buddy said, upon viewing the hopeless design of the door hinges on my Fiero GT (referring to the GM engineers, sitting around discussing this design) "Wait! There's GOT to be a harder way!" :lol:

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PostPosted: January 15, 2016, 7:15 pm 
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I had thought about sliders, but I don't use the hoist that often; I just run a long extension cord to it when using it and let it dangle... the door track is cheap enough I could run a piece alongside the I-beam just for a cord track.


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PostPosted: January 15, 2016, 7:37 pm 
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It's funny - my buddy has several bays in his shop(s), 16 foot ceiling over his 4-point hydraulic hoist, etc. etc. - yet he loves my overhead rail & hoist...

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PostPosted: January 15, 2016, 8:10 pm 
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zetec7, that is one sweet hoist set up. Wish I had thought of that before I threw up my aluminum I-beam.
The I-beam was not expensive @ under a hundered dollars but the 12v winch and trolly was a mess to set up
I will have to check the tractor supply near me to see if they have that rail setup in stock th or future projects.

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PostPosted: July 8, 2018, 5:19 pm 
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Hello my fellow enthusiasts! Sadly there has been negative locost progress since i last posted and for the most part i've been far to busy to make any progress but i'm sure all of you know how that goes. But since i haven't had had much luck on the car I wanted to share with you the joys that i have been able to enjoy.

Latest acquisitions:

One 6 month old malamute. With extra slobber!
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One 12' fold up bote!
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Next door neighbor is a general contractor and broke his uber expensive dewalt miter saw. So he gave it to me because he wanted the excuse to buy the uber uber expensive makita saw. $8 and it was fixed. It's a beast weighing in at 60lbs
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Work was throwing this beauty away so i stuffed it in my wagon. Needs some TLC and mods but will make for saw. But man was it ever rigged. I'll post pic's of the refurb as I can.
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Finally my aluminum mig welding skills at work. Note. If your machine comes with mig wire in the spool gun for aluminum throw it out. Its trash. Go to the depot or lowes or whomever and get a spool of 4043 from lincoln. Welds like butter!
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Finally ready to take the bote out for the first launch.!
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And lastly my progress :(
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Well that's it for now! Happy belated 4th! I hope to be back on track by this winter maybe some suspension making but not going to get carried away just yet :D


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