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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 26, 2016, 3:43 pm 
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Joined: August 18, 2015, 12:41 pm
Posts: 118
Location: Seattle area (Woodinville)
I've been remiss about posting updates. My excuse is that there has been too much going on and I've been working on the car with something approaching obsession when I do get to work on it between the distractions and other things competing for my time and attention. Among the distractions, my computer died, I lost and haven't replaced the outdated graphics program I had yet, and the photos I have are too high resolution (files too big) to post. But I have been making some progress.
Attachment:
IMG_2012.JPG

I've got the basic chassis mostly tacked, and about two thirds welded. I just took it off the build table and put it on the floor to trial fit the transmission in order to see how to space the vertical members at the firewall on each side of the bellhousing. Also to see if it will work with the transmission tilted ten degrees to the left. The NC Miata engine tilts ten degrees to the right and if you stand it up vertically the transmission will tilt the ten degrees towards the driver.
Attachment:
IMG_2008.JPG

The transmission is huge. It's a six speed out of a 2007 Miata. There was kind of a comedy of errors getting it. First I got a five speed, but without a shifter. I couldn't find a used shifter, and the parts to assemble one cost more from the dealer than the difference between a five speed and six speed from a wrecker, so I returned the five speed and traded up. It still took a couple of tries to get a complete shifting mechanism.
Attachment:
IMG_2010.JPG

In the photos it's sitting about three inches forward of the final location. It looks like it will work, but I'll likely rework the shifter slightly to bring the knob back and compensate for some of the tilt.
I'm not real happy with the quality of the welds. I ran a lot of practice beads before welding on the chassis, but with my rusty skills, some of the odd angles, welding sometimes right handed, sometimes left, not always being able to see the seam clearly, and unsteady hand on long beads - some of them look like crap. I also seem to dance a fine line between poor penetration and too wide a bead, opting for the latter when in doubt. And I've ground out a few and re-done them. I've been half tempted to try oxy-acetylene welding because I can see better and have better control with the separately fed filler material. But that would heat the material around the welds more, and increase the chance of warping the chassis, so I've stuck with the MIG.
I tend to be conscious about my workmanship, and I don't like the crappy-looking welds, but they'll do.
After a lot of thought, some research, and input from several people, I've decided to use Hayabusa ITBs on the two litre Duratec. That's probably the next purchase as I plug along on the chassis. Then I get to conjure up an intake manifold.


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Jerry Henneman

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PostPosted: February 26, 2016, 10:40 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 854
Location: Charlotte, NC
I strongly suggest only using tack welds at this stage of your build. They are plenty strong and will save a lot of work if/when you need to make changes. Once it is all put together, then make a rotisserie like many have done on this forum and do your finish welds. This way you can weld in a comfortable position for 95% of your welding. And that helps ensure better looking welds.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


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PostPosted: February 27, 2016, 12:03 pm 
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Joined: August 18, 2015, 12:41 pm
Posts: 118
Location: Seattle area (Woodinville)
Mnot wrote:
I strongly suggest only using tack welds at this stage of your build. They are plenty strong and will save a lot of work if/when you need to make changes. Once it is all put together, then make a rotisserie like many have done on this forum and do your finish welds. This way you can weld in a comfortable position for 95% of your welding. And that helps ensure better looking welds.


I expect that you're right. But I had wanted to have the primary structural welds mostly done before I started moving it around, doing things like fitting the transmission tunnel. In any case it's too late now. They're mostly done.

Thanks though

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Jerry Henneman

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build blog/log at https://jerryslocost.wordpress.com


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PostPosted: February 27, 2016, 12:03 pm 
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Joined: August 18, 2015, 12:41 pm
Posts: 118
Location: Seattle area (Woodinville)
Mnot wrote:
I strongly suggest only using tack welds at this stage of your build. They are plenty strong and will save a lot of work if/when you need to make changes. Once it is all put together, then make a rotisserie like many have done on this forum and do your finish welds. This way you can weld in a comfortable position for 95% of your welding. And that helps ensure better looking welds.


I expect that you're right. But I had wanted to have the primary structural welds mostly done before I started moving it around, doing things like fitting the transmission tunnel. In any case it's too late now. They're mostly done.

Thanks though

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Jerry Henneman

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build blog/log at https://jerryslocost.wordpress.com


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PostPosted: March 11, 2016, 3:06 pm 
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Joined: November 16, 2015, 2:38 pm
Posts: 727
Location: Outside Hartford, CT
I welded everything but the very bottom plane of my lower ladder bar frame section.

I wanted to ensure everything was square/ straight to build off of. I did not weld the bottom, because I did not want to have to grind the welds to get the tubes to lay perfectly flat on the table.

Its 6 of one, half dozen of another.

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