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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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 Post subject: Re: Long-term +2 build
PostPosted: February 23, 2018, 2:26 pm 
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Joined: May 27, 2006, 9:46 pm
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
I was thinking of, maybe, a hole saw, but the smallest I have is too big. What I may do is start with a small hole (perhaps with a step drill - they make nice clean holes in thin material) & carefully enlarge it with a needle file, or maybe a tiny Dremel grinder bit.

No matter which way I do it, it's going to be spooky :shock:

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 Post subject: Re: Long-term +2 build
PostPosted: February 23, 2018, 3:18 pm 
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I have drilled hundreds of holes in fiberglass, never been a big deal. I am referring to around 9/16ths and under.

I use masking tape, and I use the size drill I am going to need first up, eg; don't drill a step hole first because I have found it catches on that smaller holes edge and can tear.

I generally keep the speed up too and light pressure so it doesn't grab.


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 Post subject: Re: Long-term +2 build
PostPosted: February 23, 2018, 3:40 pm 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
Okay, thanks! Good information! I did recently buy a new set of drill bits, so the ones I use will be new & sharp!

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http://zetec7.webs.com/


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 Post subject: Re: Long-term +2 build
PostPosted: March 2, 2018, 5:45 am 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
Okay, so I tried several different methods of wiring up those single filament lights as combination signals & running lights. All of the methods worked, but none of the performed all of the functions I required (signals only, running lights only, running lights + signals). I could easily get 2 of the 3, with "signals only" being the one I couldn't manage if I still wanted the option of having running lights. I might have been able to do it if I'd been willing to use multiple relays at each front corner, but that would be waaay too complex, and probably prone to failure. There's no easy way around the fact that the relay which breaks the circuit to give brake lights needs power to operate, which comes from the running lights. If they're not on, the signals don't work. If I planned on using the running lights as DRL's it would have worked fine, but at this point I'm hoping to avoid that.

In the end, I gave in & bought different front (dual filament) signals/running lights. They're factory replacement lights for a Suzuki GS550 (among others). They're a bit larger than I was hoping for (but not quite as big as they appear in the pics - wide angle lens, pics taken very close, tends to exaggerate stuff at the middle of the frame), and not as rounded as I really wanted, but they work extremely well, and are very bright from all angles.

I made wedge-shaped rubber bases to correct for the side taper in the nose, so the signals face dead ahead instead of being cross-eyed, and the rubber lends them a little "give". The lights are very light weight, so there won't be any strain on the nose.

I was very careful in positioning them (measure 6 times, drill once :roll: ) to meet the inspection regulations - a minimum of 4" vertical or horizontal separation from the headlights (I have 5"), and a minimum of 15" above ground (I have 18").

For the record, after drilling 1/8" pilot holes, I used a brand new step drill to open up the holes in the fiberglass nose to the required size. I was pleased with the results - very clean holes, with no chipping at all around the edges.

Attachment:
signals smallc.jpg
signals smallc.jpg [ 394.26 KiB | Viewed 740 times ]


Attachment:
signals small 2.jpg
signals small 2.jpg [ 396.29 KiB | Viewed 740 times ]

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Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/


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 Post subject: Re: Long-term +2 build
PostPosted: March 2, 2018, 10:49 am 
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Joined: August 11, 2011, 12:38 pm
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Location: Akron, NY
Nice job that turned out really good. I actually prefer the looks of turn signals mounted to the nose instead of up by the headlights. I have headlights that have turn signals built in, but I am also going to mount motorcycle turn signals to the nose like you did. I have a set from I believe a 1980s ish Sportster.


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 Post subject: Re: Long-term +2 build
PostPosted: March 2, 2018, 1:07 pm 
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Joined: March 19, 2011, 10:22 am
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Looking good :cheers:

One step closer to being finished.....

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O.
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build, The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered


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 Post subject: Re: Long-term +2 build
PostPosted: March 2, 2018, 1:35 pm 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
Yep! Only about 43,967 steps left to go! :shock: :roll: :cheers:

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http://zetec7.webs.com/


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 Post subject: Re: Long-term +2 build
PostPosted: March 2, 2018, 7:56 pm 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
zetec7 wrote:
Yep! Only about 43,967 steps left to go!


Yeah, but you know you're going to be a 10%er, that's huge!

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O.
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build, The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered


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 Post subject: Re: Long-term +2 build
PostPosted: March 5, 2018, 3:06 pm 
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Joined: February 23, 2017, 12:45 pm
Posts: 41
Location: Austin, TX
For the lights a trailer harness adapter might work. They make it so you can run multiple inputs to one light. They're solid state too so failure rate is much lower than a mechanical relay.

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tekonsha/119178.html


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 Post subject: Re: Long-term +2 build
PostPosted: June 6, 2018, 2:48 pm 
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Joined: December 4, 2011, 6:19 pm
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-bump-

Mike, what's happening? Why have your posts stopped? Enquiring minds want to know!

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Bill H
Winnipeg, MB, Canada


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 Post subject: Re: Long-term +2 build
PostPosted: June 7, 2018, 2:26 am 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
Bill -

I apologize for my lack of posting, and I appreciate your interest! Currently my work schedule has exploded. I'm normally a casual, but one of the two people I fill in for tore his Achilles tendon & is off for 2-3 months, so I'm working full time in his place, plus lots of extra hours & days besides. Last week I worked 72 hours and, at my age, that's a lot! I'm getting only 1 day a week off, and that's taken up with chores, house maintenance, looking after our 16 rescue critters, etc.

Even so, I'm still managing to squeeze in an hour here and there on the car, which at this point consists of slowly blowing the car apart in preparation for frame paint, after which of course comes body paneling. I've taken a couple of hundred pics as I go, so I have details of brake, fuel, wiring etc. routing, as well as precise fitting of some of the adjustable components.

This is the part where I'm really appreciating the extra time & effort I put into design. For example, removing the fuel tank took less than 30 seconds total. I designed it so the tank rests in a cradle welded to the frame, and is locked in position by two 1/4-20 screws. Remove those, tilt the tank forward, and lift it out. Simple!

As far as frame paint is concerned, my buddy is using 3-step prep, with two undercoats, followed by a 2-part epoxy paint, followed by a UV coat on top. I, on the other hand, am planning on using simple rust paint (Tremclad). I might even get fancy and use Tremclad undercoat first, if I decide to get fancy. I think it unlikely that I'll be driving the car in salt/snow conditions ( :shock: ), so this should probably last, oh, 30-40 years or so. Certainly longer than I'll last! Plus, touch-ups are a breeze - not so much for my buddy's multi-step epoxy system.

Anyway, a couple more months and I'll be back to "regularly scheduled programming".

As for the rest of you, keep up the great work & hold up the side until I'm back in the saddle again!!

:cheers:

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Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/


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 Post subject: Re: Long-term +2 build
PostPosted: June 7, 2018, 2:11 pm 
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Looking good.


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