Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Imho:
1) I would make the head flange port hole id the same as the primary od and bevel the head side opening for welding instead of welding on the primary side. Then you just machine the surface flush.
2) I'd leave the center flange hole the nominal size for the bolt to locate the flange, make the rest over size and splitting the flanges for expansion and contraction without cracking and no weight reduction relief in the flange.
3) Primary tube should be as thick as practical so it will act less like a heat radiator to the compartment and last longer, especially if wrapped. For turbo manifolds, the heavier the better.
4) Use a stainless base gasket and grade 12.9 fasteners metric or grade 8 sae as large as will fit the holes in the turbo flange and nickel anti-sieze.
5) If this is a product, you might consider making it to fit the large flange, with a separate adapter plate for the smaller pattern. The 300zx has a good stainless gasket for the larger pattern.
6) Adjust the primaries to maximize clearance to the 1/2 inch drain hose plus fire sleeve for most direct routing to where the pan fitting will be. Hot oil takes a special hose.
1) I thought about this but I decided I would machine the cross section transition from slot to round into the flange.
2) I could add a sleeve to the center bolt to accomplish this. Do you mean cut a slit to each hole from the outside or separate each runner?
3) I'm using 321 SS Pipe that is Schedule 10 and 1.25 in nominal diameter.
4) I will definitely do this.
5) Not a product but it is easy (and inexpensive) enough for me to adjust and relocate the turbine inlet flange if I chose to do so. It looks like the 300zx uses a turbo with a more common T3 or T4 pattern. Honestly I would prefer this over the weird TD04 flange but its what I plan to use.
6) Is there a type of hose or tubing recommended for this purpose? Does anyone know what kind of temps the oil will reach?