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PostPosted: August 18, 2018, 12:34 pm 
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Yoyopup wrote:
I also changed it such that the weldments are all based of of centerlines. This makes it so easy to change tube locations in my model. I highly recommend working this way.


What does that mean?

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PostPosted: August 18, 2018, 1:54 pm 
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Node to node instead of basing the model off other dimensions which would change with tube cl to tube wall distance changes.

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PostPosted: August 28, 2018, 7:23 pm 
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Yoyopup wrote:
I also started a machine shop.


What kind of work are you doing?

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PostPosted: March 21, 2022, 11:21 am 
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Man it has been hard to find time for personal projects but I am going to try to make some progress on this one.

I am going to tackle header design and manufacturing. Some quick CAD work and I have a decent flange designed fir the 1.8 Miata engine.


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PostPosted: March 21, 2022, 11:22 am 
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a.moore wrote:
Yoyopup wrote:
I also started a machine shop.


What kind of work are you doing?


I do low quantity work for local companies. Primarily making robotics, aerospace and automotive parts.

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PostPosted: March 22, 2022, 1:02 pm 
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Rate my headers.


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PostPosted: March 29, 2022, 6:49 am 
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That flange is excellent . Would be interesting to see how that's machined . That would definetely make welding the tubes to the headers much neater .


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PostPosted: March 29, 2022, 10:12 am 
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Just a bit of a question......I see 4 header tubes of the same diameter merging into a collector with an outlet tube the same diameter as one header tube. Is that not restricting flow of expanding ex gas or am I missing something? Ahhh.. unless thats needed for a turbo?
BTW the header looks great.

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PostPosted: April 4, 2022, 3:57 pm 
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horchoha wrote:
Just a bit of a question......I see 4 header tubes of the same diameter merging into a collector with an outlet tube the same diameter as one header tube. Is that not restricting flow of expanding ex gas or am I missing something? Ahhh.. unless thats needed for a turbo?
BTW the header looks great.


The header ID is 1.44 in. The TD04 turbo inlet ID is 1.77 in. So it is slightly bigger.

It is certainly possible there is some restriction occurring here but ultimately that is the diameter of the turbo flange so it will have to be that diameter. The way gases flow in an exhaust are also in pulses so you theoretically never have flow from all 4 runners hitting that at the same time. The goal with equal runners is to keep those pulses spread out as evenly as possible to minimize turbo spool times.

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PostPosted: April 4, 2022, 4:02 pm 
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niko wrote:
That flange is excellent . Would be interesting to see how that's machined . That would definetely make welding the tubes to the headers much neater .


I will be documenting the header manufacturing process for sure. Here is what I have done so far. Plasma cut and welded one part of the welding fixture.


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PostPosted: April 4, 2022, 6:41 pm 
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Imho:

I would make the head flange port hole id the same as the primary od and bevel the head side opening for welding instead of welding on the primary side. Then you just machine the surface flush.

I'd leave the center flange hole the nominal size for the bolt to locate the flange, make the rest over size and splitting the flanges for expansion and contraction without cracking and no weight reduction relief in the flange.

Primary tube should be as thick as practical so it will act less like a heat radiator to the compartment and last longer, especially if wrapped. For turbo manifolds, the heavier the better.

Use a stainless base gasket and grade 12.9 fasteners metric or grade 8 sae as large as will fit the holes in the turbo flange and nickel anti-sieze.

If this is a product, you might consider making it to fit the large flange, with a separate adapter plate for the smaller pattern. The 300zx has a good stainless gasket for the larger pattern.

Adjust the primaries to maximize clearance to the 1/2 inch drain hose plus fire sleeve for most direct routing to where the pan fitting will be. Hot oil takes a special hose.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: April 4, 2022, 11:12 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Imho:

1) I would make the head flange port hole id the same as the primary od and bevel the head side opening for welding instead of welding on the primary side. Then you just machine the surface flush.

2) I'd leave the center flange hole the nominal size for the bolt to locate the flange, make the rest over size and splitting the flanges for expansion and contraction without cracking and no weight reduction relief in the flange.

3) Primary tube should be as thick as practical so it will act less like a heat radiator to the compartment and last longer, especially if wrapped. For turbo manifolds, the heavier the better.

4) Use a stainless base gasket and grade 12.9 fasteners metric or grade 8 sae as large as will fit the holes in the turbo flange and nickel anti-sieze.

5) If this is a product, you might consider making it to fit the large flange, with a separate adapter plate for the smaller pattern. The 300zx has a good stainless gasket for the larger pattern.

6) Adjust the primaries to maximize clearance to the 1/2 inch drain hose plus fire sleeve for most direct routing to where the pan fitting will be. Hot oil takes a special hose.


1) I thought about this but I decided I would machine the cross section transition from slot to round into the flange.
2) I could add a sleeve to the center bolt to accomplish this. Do you mean cut a slit to each hole from the outside or separate each runner?
3) I'm using 321 SS Pipe that is Schedule 10 and 1.25 in nominal diameter.
4) I will definitely do this.
5) Not a product but it is easy (and inexpensive) enough for me to adjust and relocate the turbine inlet flange if I chose to do so. It looks like the 300zx uses a turbo with a more common T3 or T4 pattern. Honestly I would prefer this over the weird TD04 flange but its what I plan to use.
6) Is there a type of hose or tubing recommended for this purpose? Does anyone know what kind of temps the oil will reach?

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PostPosted: April 5, 2022, 8:46 am 
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I am suggesting separating the flanges from each other to allow for expansion and contraction. However, with long primaries, it may not be an issue. It is with short runner manifolds. I'd use prevailing torque flange nuts that are just tight enough to allow the movement.

Are you referring to 1.25 pipe for the primaries which has a 1.66 od, which has a 1.44 id / .109 wall in schedule 10? That sounds like a good choice.

The ideal hose would be low pressure for barb fittings and flexible with just foamed oil pouring through and capable of withstanding 250f lubricant and cost about $5/foot. I've not found it. Rubber hoses do not last and quickly harden and crack. There are silicon lined hoses similar to what is used for the air that are used for drains like this:

https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.m ... _Code=RUBB

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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