LocostUSA.com

SkinnyG is a member here too. He didn't have a build log here but did an update in 2008, if that is possible. http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3527&p=33117&hilit=lethal+locost#p33117

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I didn't think about pedal clearance. Are most pedals directly against the firewall? I'm about 5'9". I'll have to do some measurements to see if I fit. What I'll probably end up doing is looking at what my legs+ pedal box needs and adding a few inches of extra length.

The brakes are another question. What I'm thinking is to run a depowered miata master with the pedal fulcrum adjusted to suit and a bias knob for the rear brakes. Although I do worry that the master cylinder diameter will just not work in a depowered fashion.

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There is no replacement for displacement... Except for turbos

What dimensions do you need from that nose cone? I have a nose that I was told was a splash from a Lotus S-2.

Does this look like what you need?

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Mike - Read my story at http://twinlakesseven.blogspot.com/

ngpmike
I would assume that the dimensions in your nose (being that it is for an s2) will be similar to the nose that i am looking at in most ways exept for the difference in height.

The drawing is viewed from the bottom. If you can understand what I mean then you can post A=...B=...etc



It's not the best drawing and it might be sideways since I'm posting from my phone. I can do a similar thing in cad when I get a chance and it will be much better.

The main things I'm concerned about is fitment to the upper main chassis rails and radiator clearance.

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There is no replacement for displacement... Except for turbos

Well, here are the measurements on my nose cone. A= 24.75", B= 22.125", C= 19.875", D= 10.75", E= 13.75. There is a 1.25" long recess that is about 1/16-1/8" deep all along "A" where the hood (bonnet) sits. This is not included in the in the lengths of "D" & "E". All of these dimensions are probably +/- 1/8-1/4" due to my having to wrestle with this thing by my self to measure it. Hope this helps!

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Mike - Read my story at http://twinlakesseven.blogspot.com/

So I finally had some time to work on things.

In the digital world, thank you ngpmike for measuring your nosecone. I made a model in solidworks based on solids but it doesnt quite seem right. Im working on another using surfaces which will be much better, I just haven't used them before so I have some trial and error to go through.

My donor car has been moved inside to a 2 post lift and the tear down has begun. After removing the engine from my daily miata to service it it took about 4 hours to get the engine out and the actual removal process (torsion bar bolts out to engine clear of the bay) took about 3 minutes with two people, thanks Zack.


Other thing I did was pull the front calipers off to clean / rebuild. The outsides were super rusty but luckily the bores are nice and clean. Only problem is now I have to decide what color to powdercoat them after I sandblast them (and the rest of the car to match)...

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There is no replacement for displacement... Except for turbos

If I ever do another one the nose cone will be one of the first things I buy. Not to say I wasn't happy with the fit but it could have been a little better had the cone been available during design and construction (aka I probably would have designed the chassis to fit an available nose versus widening one).

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-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

I've actually been debating buying my nose for that reason. I'll go ahead and do that.

Anyone familiar with Miata calipers? I fear I may have damaged a little piece of rubber that appears to be bonded to the caliper mount and I don't think that service kits come with it and I can't find it anywhere.



Is my only option to replace the bracket with a remanufactured one? Is the rubber part purchasable? Could I substitute a different material?

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There is no replacement for displacement... Except for turbos

that looks to be a caliper bushing. Check http://www.rockauto.com/

Yoyopup,
Great start to a well thought out build. Something you might want to consider. The original 7s angled the top, side tubes (N1, N2) down toward the rear. This gave some much needed elbow room.

It's possible that with the dash/ steering wheel back 4", you might need the extra open space.
Ron

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"Age is an issue of mind over matter. If you don't mind, it doesn't matter." - Mark Twain
In my defense the moon was full and I was left unsupervised

So I just got some brake rebuild parts in and I don't think that the rubber that I'm worried about comes with the kit. There doesn't appear to be a caliper bushing for this bolt available. Also it seems like the bolt/pin actually a slip fit with the inner surface of the caliper bracket.

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There is no replacement for displacement... Except for turbos

I ended up going with a nose from kinetic vehicles. I also bought a custom radiator kit from northern radiator (drill and weld the hose bungs on). The measurements online meant that it would either fit perfectly or be slightly too big for the nose. Thankfully. It fits just fine.



I'm going to 3D scan the nose and add it to my model, make some final chassis adjustments and start on cutting, jigging and welding.

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There is no replacement for displacement... Except for turbos

Welcome! When you go to cut those flanges go water jet. Laser will warp 1/2" anything (carbon and stainless) as it gets too hot. Do you mind if I can get a copy of that file? I want to start making Subaru headers as they are pretty expensive and hopefully I can make a cheaper option for the guys.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

I wish the laser I have access to could cut 1/2 inch (max is .125 steel). Even some parts at this thickness warp. I was going to probably CNC mill the flanges since that's what I have. Briggs, whenever I get to my laptop I can send you the flanges. What file type? Dxf?

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There is no replacement for displacement... Except for turbos

I am back. FSAE has kept me busy the past few years. Still have 2 more FSAE cars to go. I also started a machine shop.

My prowess with solidworks, welding and CNC machining has improved drastically.

I redid my chassis model to integrate the roll bars / partial cage. I also changed it such that the weldments are all based of of centerlines. This makes it so easy to change tube locations in my model. I highly recommend working this way.

After a few nights of modeling I have this what you see below. More updates to come soon.

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There is no replacement for displacement... Except for turbos