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PostPosted: September 20, 2021, 10:50 am 
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Nice work on V1 of the taillights.
Friend has a Creality. Didn't realize there was material that was translucent enough to use for 'lenses'
Might have to look into this for the future. Was already planning on having him print me a 'cover' for the Racepak digital dash, for when parked in the sun.

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PostPosted: September 20, 2021, 12:21 pm 
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Thanks guys!

Tom, I used Harley Davidson "Texture Black". It's the same coating that you see on the engine cases of Harley's. Applies like any other rattle can paint - very easy.

Jamador, Yep there are many different colors available - search for translucent filament. This was Overture brand translucent PETG and is not quite as red as I would like, got a bit of pink in it. Atomic makes a Ruby Red translucent PETG that’s reported to be very red. I'm planning to give that a try for V2.


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PostPosted: September 20, 2021, 12:45 pm 
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RTz wrote:
Thanks guys!

Tom, I used Harley Davidson "Texture Black". It's the same coating that you see on the engine cases of Harley's. Applies like any other rattle can paint - very easy.
Thanks Ron. Perfect!!

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: September 20, 2021, 2:23 pm 
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Cool, I've been keeping a 3d printer on the fence for a while.
Parts fab could push me over the top, already have a Pi to run it.

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PostPosted: September 20, 2021, 3:51 pm 
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I was too, for several years. Prices have come down so much that they're getting hard to ignore. If you have modeling experience (and some patience - they can be finicky), they are a cost effective and useful tool. Do it! :lol:

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PostPosted: September 29, 2021, 1:12 am 
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Ron,

Re the Harley 'texture paint'. Does it develop the texture under normal conditions? I used VHT's wrinkle paint and couldn't get it to wrinkle at first. Research pointed me to heat both the paint and material to be covered.
Take care when heating the paint in the can. I put the can in a bowl of hot water, popped the material to be painted (plug valley cover) in oven at no more than 200*.

After the failures I was surprised how well it wrinkled.
Attachment:
IMG_0535.jpeg


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PostPosted: September 29, 2021, 10:40 am 
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Hi Larry, I've used VHT wrinkle a few times. My experience has been that the wrinkle is proportionate to heat, more heat = more defined wrinkle. I normally use a heat gun to manipulate how much wrinkle I want. The Harley texture paint is far easier, more consistent and no fussing with heat. Just spray it on like any other rattle can paint, let it dry for 15 minutes, and spray a second coat. Ambient temp for this piece was middle 70's and I think that sort of temp is about right. I've used it on past projects as well with consistent results. The finish isn't wrinkled, it's more like having the appearance of fine sand in the paint.

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PostPosted: September 29, 2021, 1:24 pm 
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Had the skins laser cut from 3003 aluminum. Tool paths were created from the CAD model and printed to scale on paper to verify fitment before pulling the trigger. The paper templates fit up well as-is so the order was made. I didn't take many progress pictures but here's a walk around video of partial progress… https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_URfgo0R3I


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Last edited by RTz on November 7, 2021, 11:43 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: September 29, 2021, 6:42 pm 
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Hi Ron,

The Harley paint sounds like it's a bunch more forgiving than the VHT. I didn't know about it when I was paint shopping. Too soon old, too late smart. Could have avoided the harsh comments from my wife when I popped the valley cover into the oven.

Just watched the walk around video of your chassis. Very nice! And execution is top notch!

Cheers!

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PostPosted: October 8, 2021, 10:43 pm 
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Sides & rear apron are riveted/bonded. Rear fenders hung. They’re heavily used Caterham fenders and have unfortunately been damaged and repaired multiple times and no longer symmetrical or true to the original shape. Gives me a good excuse to order new CF fenders :) Time to start start sorting out the nose.


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PostPosted: October 9, 2021, 9:46 am 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Nice job on the aluminum panels.

The joint where the arc of the panel under the rear fender meets the side panel looks practically seamless. Did you weld it?

Where did you find the Caterham rear fenders? I'm wondering if they'd cover my rear wheels (wider that usual due to Mustang live axle) should you decide to replace them.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: October 9, 2021, 12:22 pm 
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:) Thanks, not welded, just lapped. Doing them two-piece was the key, you can leave extra material in the patterns to lap over each other at the miter whereas you don’t have that luxury with a one-piece panel. Also, as you can imagine handling/forming these two pieces separately is far easier and a little more forgiving. As a side note I was finishing up forming the last upper skin, got a little overzealous annealing and made a highly unintentional puddle of aluminum GRRHHH! Had to start over with a new upper pattern which was much less aggravating than if I had to re-do an entire side panel. Wall of shame panel below.

I would make you a killer deal on the fenders, they’re 12” wide if that suits you. Let’s talk offline - I’ll PM you next week with more information.


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PostPosted: November 9, 2021, 9:17 pm 
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Couple items to check off the list:

Slit the nosecone to spread 2" wider at the rear and leaving the front original width. Still needs finishing and mounting.

The scuttle wall has been a temporary piece of galvanized sheet since the beginning, so that finally got replaced with aluminum. Affixed the top with a radiused aluminum angle 'seat' and gasketed for the scuttle top and hood to seal to.

Scuttle top laser cut, rolled, and fastened.

Tunnel cover broke-up, nut-serted, and installed. Added a standard cigarette lighter port along with battery maintainer port.


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PostPosted: November 10, 2021, 11:25 am 
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Very nice work, looks great.
I've got to learn some fiberglass skills as my nose is split down the middle & will need to be bonded back together.

Might actually have some free time this weekend & hope to make it into the garage for a bit.

Might set up a large table & start sorting through the wiring hairball.

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PostPosted: November 10, 2021, 1:09 pm 
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Hi Ron,

Everything is looking great as usual.

I was wondering what the purpose of the scuttle "dog ear" is at the rear. I've seen this on Caterhams too, but I don't really understand its purpose.

Cheers,
Attachment:
Scuttle Dog Ear.jpg


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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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