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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: May 28, 2019, 3:12 pm 
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Joined: December 24, 2007, 5:11 am
Posts: 1307
Location: Seattle area
That is confusing. That's pretty much what I bought from them and that's a touch more than twice what I paid for a pair! That was 10 years ago but I don't think the price shouldn't have increased that much.

Good luck.

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PostPosted: June 2, 2019, 9:22 pm 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
Posts: 260
Location: Delaware
Tunnel cover on. Also have the nose cone on with 4 1/4 turns and some alignment guides that hold the lower lip tight against the radiator support. Brackets for the 1/4 turns are slotted since the nose is pretty good but not perfect. Tunnel cover and brackets use M5 rivnuts.

Attachment:
trans tunnel cover.jpg

Attachment:
nose spring 1.jpg

Attachment:
nose spring 2.jpg


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Last edited by hfmaxi on August 16, 2020, 8:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: June 16, 2019, 9:26 pm 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
Posts: 260
Location: Delaware
Put together some brackets I ended up needing for the shock to clear the rear wheels. A bit hard to see since it's all painted. Also having some paint wear issues with a few parts, unknown why as I've have good luck with the paint I used in the past.


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PostPosted: June 30, 2019, 8:16 pm 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
Posts: 260
Location: Delaware
Working on the front upper firewall while the correct size oetiker clamps show up in the mail. Had to cut the piece in two to fit in my bender and then welded it back up with the wire feed. Managed to not warp it too bad. Steering column / pedal access cover would be done had I not let a friend borrow most all my rivets. Firewall profile started with the standard scuttle drawing that is linked a number of times on this board and then was trimmed to fit the nose profile. Also made an mounted the boot parcel shelf / brake and fuel line mounting plate.

Attachment:
firewall 1.jpg

Attachment:
firewall 3.jpg

Attachment:
firewall cover.jpg


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Last edited by hfmaxi on August 16, 2020, 8:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: July 1, 2019, 9:57 am 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
Posts: 5326
Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Nice job on that cover. It looks very professional.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: July 10, 2019, 8:08 pm 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
Posts: 260
Location: Delaware
Running rear lines so I can tie up the boot area and put the roll hoop back on. I had some subaru brake / fuel line hangers that were re-purposed for the job. They are mounted to some 3/4" AL square tube so that they are flush with the tunnel ID. Prop valve did not end up where I originally thought but it should be out of the way in normal operation, it's mounted via some AL rod that is tapped on both sides and hung so the fuel line doesn't touch. Apparently the Wilwood prop valves are not designed to be bulkhead mounted. All fuel lines are -6 and brake lines -3 fittings. I had also planned on having the fuel filter mounted forward/aft but with all the fittings it really stuck out too far on either end.

Attachment:
fuel filter install.jpg

Attachment:
prop valve install.jpg

Attachment:
boot without bulkhead.jpg

Attachment:
trans tunnel brake lines.jpg


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Last edited by hfmaxi on August 16, 2020, 8:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: July 10, 2019, 11:45 pm 
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Joined: August 8, 2014, 6:08 pm
Posts: 1238
Location: Green Bay, WI
hfmaxi wrote:
benny_toe wrote:
I bought my fronts from F & M. They were high but not what I would call crazy. What did they quote you?


I was quoted $160 each for a 9x25x12 flat top (although I asked for round top) in aluminum. I was thinking just buy oversize and cut to suite but perhaps I need to call them with numbers closer to my final sizes. Otherwise a wet lay fiber glass is looking very price competitive or maybe someone else would like to share shipping costs from kit car direct?

Nice build going on. Pretty clean. Check out Martin and see if there’s anything you like. I think I paid $175 with shipping from UK. He does great work. http://bathoscars.simpl.com/

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782


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PostPosted: July 11, 2019, 7:51 am 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
Posts: 260
Location: Delaware
Tundra 7 wrote:
Nice build going on. Pretty clean. Check out Martin and see if there’s anything you like. I think I paid $175 with shipping from UK. He does great work. http://bathoscars.simpl.com/


Thanks and thanks for the link, they seem to make really nice stuff. At this point with the low GBP I'm thinking about ordering from mksportscars (kitcarsdirect) or making my own but have really been focused on other things.


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PostPosted: July 11, 2019, 8:15 am 
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Joined: April 23, 2006, 8:26 pm
Posts: 6410
Location: SoCal
Tundra 7 wrote:
... Check out Martin and see if there’s anything you like...

Not that there's anything wrong with that...

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/


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PostPosted: July 12, 2019, 7:22 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
Posts: 1879
Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
hfmaxi
Check your Delaware state inspection requirements. Some states do not allow brake bias adjustments inside the cabin area. You may have to by-pass it, or simply remove the knob to pass the inspection. Davew


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PostPosted: July 12, 2019, 8:06 am 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
Posts: 260
Location: Delaware
davew wrote:
hfmaxi
Check your Delaware state inspection requirements. Some states do not allow brake bias adjustments inside the cabin area. Davew


Afaik it shouldn't be an issue. My rally car had one and a hydraulic handbrake with a big yellow lever and never had an issue with inspection. Delaware is mostly an exterior safety plus a rolling brake test and emissions. Kitcars are also listed as being emissions exempt. There is actually very little info on kitcars in DE as most of the special inspections are related to street rods. The SEMA site is several years out of date as the street rod cut off is now 1972. From talking to the one locost owner I've seen in DE it's pretty straight forward. I will also talk to the fine gentlemen that run Alderman machine and Mid-Atlantic Caterham (now closed) how they've handled them in the past.


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PostPosted: July 28, 2019, 8:15 pm 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
Posts: 260
Location: Delaware
Big day here. Gave the roadster its first breath of fresh air. Needed to get it out to bend the parts for the scuttle, got one done and ran out of time. Still pretty darn cool to have it out even if it doesn't have an engine or anything useful installed. The short 30ft trip did turn up a little play in the steering pinion so will call Woodward and sort that. Car also has plenty of steering travel. I don't think I'll need all the lock for most things.

Attachment:
outside roller.jpg


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Last edited by hfmaxi on August 16, 2020, 8:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: September 23, 2019, 10:00 pm 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
Posts: 260
Location: Delaware
Got around to getting the scuttle together. Pretty happy with how it came out. Started with bending the front hoop on the frame, attached that to the chassis and then bent and attached the rear scuttle frame to match visually looking down the nosecone. Made a paper template and transferred that to a poster board template before marking and cutting the .040 AL sheet. There are some sheet tabs that will need to be attached at the front of the cockpit eventually. You'll also notice that the scuttle is long: I prefer the short cockpit look and didn't want the steering wheel looking like it's hanging out in space.

Attachment:
scuttle wide angle.jpg

Attachment:
scuttle attached.jpg

Attachment:
scuttle frame.jpg

Attachment:
scuttle fitting 1.jpg

Attachment:
scuttle template 1.jpg



Side note: if anyone is looking for a build table I will be looking to divest mine at some point before the end of the year (hopefully).


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Last edited by hfmaxi on August 16, 2020, 8:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: September 26, 2019, 12:11 pm 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
Posts: 5326
Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Congrats on the scuttle. It turned out very nicely.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: November 15, 2019, 8:25 am 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
Posts: 260
Location: Delaware
roadster at the end of sept just prior to the forum crash. a bit of progress made since then: had to adjust the diff mount and clearance the frame for the driveshaft rear u-joints a bit. Bonnet is done for now and won't come out until it time to add hardware and clearance the cam adjusters. firewall has been modded to hide an air filter and I'm half way through the heaterbox, just need something to control the mixing flap. picts to come.


BIG thanks to dhempy for restoring what he could. This forum is a great resource and an excellent community.


Attachment:
roadster 27 sept.jpg


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