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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: September 10, 2016, 7:20 pm 
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Location: Delaware
some real progress! build table is almost done. 2x4 frame with castors and leveling feet. top is melamine with 3/4" particle subfloor screwed to the bottom. Still need to decide the best way to attach it to the frame, probably just screw down through the top. Also had the first casualty of the project, I accidentally moved the engine on the dolly while measuring the clearance needed to put it under the table and the dip stick insert broke and dropped into the block; good thing I haven't changed the oil pan yet. Even with the engine as low on the dolly as I can get it, still doesn't quite clear, just need to set it up on the levelers a bit.


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PostPosted: October 9, 2016, 11:23 am 
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Location: Delaware
One thing I had not seen mentioned when working with melamine was how poorly sharpie pens (not permanent sharpies as I'm told by my resident writing implement expert co-driver) work on the surface. Unfortunately this was noted only after drawing the lines out. oh well, at least it's easier to start over when you are just at step 1. Turns out a permanent sharpie works just fine.


Last edited by hfmaxi on October 14, 2016, 7:36 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: October 9, 2016, 10:25 pm 
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Joined: March 19, 2011, 10:22 am
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
That's a good idea, leaving an end open to store components within the table.
The one thing I've always stressed when building a table is to make sure that you can insert your engine lift under the lower horizontal bracing of the table. You should be able to do this from the ends and the sides of the table. This really helps when using the engine lift to lift the frame off the table or insert the engine into the frame while it's on the table.

Build on! :cheers:

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
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Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O.
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PostPosted: October 10, 2016, 10:09 am 
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Location: Delaware
another fun challenge from the weekend. My dad is helping out (since he has a 10" lathe and I don't) converting the miata front uprights to run subaru rear 2wd hubs and 5x100 bolt pattern. we had done a quick check on clearance with the ways but hit the saddle beneath the cross feed. out with the grinder!


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PostPosted: October 15, 2016, 7:35 pm 
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Location: Delaware
Picked up most of the chassis steel, all in A513 from Metal Supermarket outside Baltimore. Using 1" round for the passenger compartment side and some other place. Did not buy the roll hoop tubing or the rear .75" round.


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PostPosted: October 27, 2016, 7:42 am 
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It's vertical. The process so far has only involved squaring what I thought was a square horizontal band saw (kalamazoo 7A), reattaching a pulley and weighting the pulley assembly on my metal converted craftsman 103 vertical bandsaw, and fixing the gun on the welder so I don't have to fight it anymore (was not happy with how the spot welds were going)... all good things I suppose as they are now working great.


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PostPosted: October 27, 2016, 9:03 am 
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If you haven't already taken a grinder to your lathe. Extend your tail stock out so you have room for the carriage to take the length of cut you need without interfering with the steering arm, and mount a left handed boring bar (the bigger the better) in the tool post and extend out to were you want to cut. You will have to take lighter cuts because of the reduced rigidity but it can work.


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PostPosted: October 27, 2016, 9:24 am 
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WelderLee wrote:
If you haven't already taken a grinder to your lathe. Extend your tail stock out so you have room for the carriage to take the length of cut you need without interfering with the steering arm, and mount a left handed boring bar (the bigger the better) in the tool post and extend out to were you want to cut. You will have to take lighter cuts because of the reduced rigidity but it can work.


ended putting the spindle in the mill and removed the issue.


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PostPosted: November 25, 2016, 6:20 pm 
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Coming right along (pict below). Got the diff offset marked and soft fit the seats. was thinking about using a modded subie pedal box but the mock up had the master cylinders where the top rails are, will revisit when it's time to figure that out. In the mean time got the frame turned around on the table to start on the rear suspension.


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PostPosted: November 29, 2016, 5:16 am 
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Looking great. Will be watching the build, hope it is going well ( kind of interesting to think that while "you" are in your shed building your locost, there are people doing the same thing in other parts of the world)


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PostPosted: December 4, 2016, 9:57 am 
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Ewcarb wrote:
Looking great. Will be watching the build, hope it is going well ( kind of interesting to think that while "you" are in your shed building your locost, there are people doing the same thing in other parts of the world)


thanks. I've learned a lot from other peoples builds so trying to keep mine detailed and up to date.


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PostPosted: December 6, 2016, 8:28 am 
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sometimes I clamp things.


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PostPosted: December 18, 2016, 9:09 pm 
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And together.


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PostPosted: December 30, 2016, 10:40 am 
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Got a nice surprise when my parents came to visit; a set of front control arms and 5x100 converted miata uprights my dad had been working on. control arms are Vodou style built to saturn specs (because things aren't complicated enough right?). also started dry fitting the diff to make sure the trans tunnel works with the 3/4" pinion offset that the subaru r160 has. current plan is to finish up the rear suspension parts but leave off the boot and tack in the trans tunnel and then weld the entire thing up.


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PostPosted: December 30, 2016, 12:05 pm 
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How you going to connect the diff to those uprights?

Also how do you tell if that diff is a 1 wheel or 2 wheel driver?

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