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PostPosted: July 27, 2018, 8:07 am 
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Suggestion number 423. Completely cut out the sectioned trans tunnel diagonal tube and just run it from the opposite corners. You should consider adding local internal reinforcements in those cut down tubes. DaveW


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PostPosted: July 27, 2018, 8:15 am 
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davew wrote:
Suggestion number 423. Completely cut out the sectioned trans tunnel diagonal tube and just run it from the opposite corners. DaveW


I've thought about it. Waiting on fitting the driveshaft to make sure it will clear the universals before I make any other changes. Where the cut out is I can't just sister to the top or bottom of the existing tube without interfering.

Plan for the clutch fork is to move the diagonal away from the node to the rear most pedal mount cross piece. Will add a gusset for good measure plus I need a reason to use the dimple die I made.

Yes on the boxing the notched tubes. I just didn't show a picture of it.


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PostPosted: August 5, 2018, 7:39 am 
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playing around with a couple header designs using some pipe insulation with a piece of heavy wire in the adhesive while waiting on the header parts to come in from Cone Engineering. Will probably end up doing the normal collector on the outside style. I'm rather go out the side vs the top just to avoid making cuts in the bonnet.


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PostPosted: August 5, 2018, 1:11 pm 
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The curvy header looks a lot sexier :cheers:

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PostPosted: August 5, 2018, 7:33 pm 
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kinda a hybrid of the two. aside from looking cool my understanding is that you want about the same amount of curve and overall length or should be calculating the effective length of individual curves and making the pipe effective lengths the same. still a fun visual before committing to cut stuff.


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PostPosted: August 5, 2018, 9:25 pm 
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Productive weekend, also go the trans mount put together and the frame side tacked in. It's not the prettiest looking but it should work. Mount is a 1995 LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 3.9L V8
ÜRO PARTS STC434.

Attachment:
trans mount.jpg


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Last edited by hfmaxi on August 16, 2020, 2:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: August 6, 2018, 8:16 am 
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Suggestion number 424.
Change the exhaust header mounting studs to bolts. Your current design will not allow enough clearance to move the header flange over the studs to be able to remove the exhaust.
Yupper :( How come the packaging always Looks like the old 10lbs into the 5lbs bag.
You mat want to consider a couple slip joints in the design just so you can extract the headers.
DaveW


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PostPosted: August 6, 2018, 8:38 am 
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davew wrote:
Suggestion number 424.
Change the exhaust header mounting studs to bolts. Your current design will not allow enough clearance to move the header flange over the studs to be able to remove the exhaust.
Yupper :( How come the packaging always Looks like the old 10lbs into the 5lbs bag.
You mat want to consider a couple slip joints in the design just so you can extract the headers.
DaveW



thanks for the suggestion. I was planning on making the merge collector a slip joint and was thinking that I might need to split the primaries at the head flange but it really hasn't gone beyond the "huh, I wonder if I can even get this out"


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PostPosted: August 6, 2018, 8:39 am 
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I wonder if this would be a useful case for wrapping the foam tubes in FiberFix or something thereby making a rigid model to use for the metal version?

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PostPosted: August 6, 2018, 2:00 pm 
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A little after the fact, but you might want to look at a bolt in top diagonal tube. I also had to make a header system with a hard right turn at the bottom, with the slip joints at the exit, just before the engine bay body panel, so I could remove the exhaust. DaveW


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PostPosted: August 6, 2018, 2:14 pm 
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I was planning on using v-bands for the header to mid-pipe connection with the turn after the collector in stainless and the primaries in mild steel and pointed down so nothing collects. They v-bands are a bit on the pricey but having used them on other projects totally worth the expense. If it goes header, cat, muffler which one is the mid pipe?


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PostPosted: October 5, 2018, 7:37 pm 
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The more I've looked at the cool curvy mock up headers and thought about getting them in and out I am going over the frame instead. Here is the current mock up with an oil extractor standing in for a muffler since it's about 6".


Attachment:
header final mock up.jpg


Also been busy with some other odds and ends: completed the lower steering shaft, made the intake tube with a mount for the maf and got some help making my caliper mount ears. The caliper mounts will get a bridge piece welding in at some point to help keep the caliper but trying to flex and just make it easier to install.

Attachment:
caliper mount fabricated.jpg

Attachment:
steering linkage.jpg


Next up is getting a drive shaft fabricated and installed to check for any more frame mods and then maybe finish those up. I had gotten a quote from PTI to do the shaft in aug but calling back to actually order it they weren't sure why they quoted me for this combination. I had already bought the DOM I need so I'll just do it and there is one place semi local that will actually balance home made shafts since the half dozen other localish places I called didn't really seem that interested.


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Last edited by hfmaxi on August 16, 2020, 2:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: October 6, 2018, 4:58 pm 
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cut and taped up and ready to start welding. merge collectors are double slip joints.

Attachment:
header ready to weld.jpg


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Last edited by hfmaxi on August 16, 2020, 2:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: October 8, 2018, 11:39 am 
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Heads up on your cold air intake - I tried the same thing on a regular Duratec and had resonance issues serious enough to stall the engine. I had to make the stock airbox work since it included a resonance chamber.

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PostPosted: October 8, 2018, 9:54 pm 
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a.moore wrote:
Heads up on your cold air intake - I tried the same thing on a regular Duratec and had resonance issues serious enough to stall the engine. I had to make the stock airbox work since it included a resonance chamber.


Thanks for the heads up. One of the notes that came with the ECU is that the engine HAS to be tuned if there are any changes to the intake so I am expecting to take some time with that. I'm not all that stuck on the design was going more for a what fits atm although I don't think it's too far off from what the mk3 focus crowd is putting on their cars.

Spent some time getting the primary tubes welded and the welds ground down (a bit of vanity) but only after running out of mig wire at 8pm on a sunday. This is the first set of headers I've made and I'm pretty happy with how they've turned out. Hopefully they actually work too. Need to finish up the welds at the flange and add the turn down after the collector and an O2 bung. Then I'll spray it with some primer so it can be painted properly some other time when it's not >80% humidity (see most of the summer-current this year in the mid atlantic) and the car is running to cure the header paint.

Attachment:
header primaries welded.jpg

Attachment:
header primaries welded 2.jpg


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Last edited by hfmaxi on August 16, 2020, 2:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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