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PostPosted: December 30, 2016, 12:56 pm 
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carguy123 wrote:
How you going to connect the diff to those uprights?

Also how do you tell if that diff is a 1 wheel or 2 wheel driver?


was just going to build a "U" hanger and weld some brackets to the rear box, probably a hard mount, nothing fancy, I still need to confirm that the dry fit height is correct.

for the LSD or not, there's no reliable markings on the torsens. beyond memorizing the cars that should have a lsd the easiest method is to pull an axle and turn it the diff, if they turn opposite directions, it's open otherwise if they turn the same direction it's probably lsd. just make sure to add some drag to both sides when checking.


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PostPosted: December 30, 2016, 6:32 pm 
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I was thinking more along the lines of the axle connection from the diff to the upright. Custom axles?

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PostPosted: December 30, 2016, 7:35 pm 
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carguy123 wrote:
I was thinking more along the lines of the axle connection from the diff to the upright. Custom axles?


ah, going custom rear hub carriers and stock early impreza axles using a '06 legacy bolt on rear hub. shooting for a stock impreza rear track which is about 57.5" according to the manual I have.


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PostPosted: December 30, 2016, 9:27 pm 
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I have the same pieces but was thinking of going a Miata diff to make hook up easier.

Or see what else might be a simple swap with same splines. I can get 3.9 gears out of certain model Miatae, but really wanted 3.7ish. I'm not sure what gear ratio my diff is, it came out of a 77 Z, but I'm thinking it's 3.55ish.

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PostPosted: January 7, 2017, 9:48 pm 
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got the rear suspension/roll bar mounts together. plan on adding in the triangular piece once the mounts are tacked in and the 3/4" tubes added. happy with how the boxes came out but ended up with more spatter than I would have expected.


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PostPosted: January 13, 2017, 2:16 pm 
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was poking around the article on the new birkin relaxed fit and saw that they are using subie diffs. I knew the ultralites has subaru parts but not the birkins and that got me thinking about other ways to hang the diff. Also note that the diff is offset so the pinion is centered. am going to look into axle lengths again and see if there is an ots option for that.


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PostPosted: January 13, 2017, 3:53 pm 
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Subie diffs are the R180-200 Nissan.

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PostPosted: January 25, 2017, 4:03 pm 
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Finally got around to finishing the triangulation on the rear suspension. This is how I plan to leave the boot for a while, ie won't be making up the hoops until the frame is welded up and the running gear is in. Also, a pict of the modified steering rack. Sleeve is a slight press fit, planning on Locite 648 to keep it all together.


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PostPosted: March 7, 2017, 10:30 pm 
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the book kind of glosses over seat mounts and I don't like the "just mount it through the sheet metal" style so I made up some mounts with 1 x 0.5 in tube and some threaded inserts. I do have a slider but set the drivers side to mount without it since I'm still not sure about using it and gaining the 1.25" of height that it ads to the driver seat. Once the panels are on I'm not really sure if I'll ever have access to the back mount on the driver side but will cross that bridge when we get there. also pictured are some of the additional trans tunnel bracing just laying in place for the time being.


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PostPosted: March 24, 2017, 10:05 pm 
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Progress on welding the thing up now that it's getting warmer out and I can crack the garage door without letting a chill in. bought some 3/4" round for the rear hoops that I am going to attempt to sand fill bend, got a spare just in case.

Attachment:
frame welding progress.jpg


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Last edited by hfmaxi on August 16, 2020, 12:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: March 29, 2017, 8:07 pm 
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got the bathroom scale out while I was flipping the frame to weld the bottom; currently at 135 lbs or about 61 kg since it is a Haynes chassis.


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PostPosted: June 9, 2017, 9:00 pm 
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Perhaps I am getting a little ahead of myself but in the process of sorting out the steering and tie rods and maybe getting around to making the jigs for the front suspension I am working on sorting the brakes on paper as well. Subaru has a 24mm thick rotor that comes in a couple different sizes. I run the 10.25" rotor on the rally car so that I can use 14" wheels. It was decided a while ago due to the lack of performance 14" tires that I would run 15" tires on the roadster. I thought about using mk4 golf calipers on the front to match the mk4 rotors and calipers I plan on using for the back but VW uses a leading caliper vs the trailing that the miata uprights want. I am not using a subaru caliper due to the difficulty of of making the subaru bracket work with the miata upright. Ideally I would use something like a narrow dynapro radial mount and make life easy in regards to making the bracket but the initial cost is a little much. So I settled on the Dynalite-M caliper which is under $150 and has a number of different pads available. Unfortunately the dynalite-m is a lug mount type and will not work with the subaru 10.25" disk and the miata upright. So I spent a bunch of time and effort and money fabbing up a test rotor for the next size up subaru 277mm rotors. There is probably no real need to go that big on such a light car but that seems like what will fit at this point in time and won't cost too much.


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PostPosted: August 6, 2017, 3:32 pm 
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Making some more progress on odds and ends, got up to see what my father has been up to (rear uprights and arms) and worked on some other items while I was visiting. Got the jig for the suspension brackets made (something I have been putting off) and got the subaru steering column cut and welded for a jegs quick release steering hub (6 bolt). Also test fit the rear uprights with calipers and rotors. The uprights are made for Legacy bolt on rear bearings, VW mk4 5x100 rear rotors and VW rear calipers.


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Last edited by hfmaxi on August 16, 2020, 1:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: August 10, 2017, 7:34 pm 
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Nice work so far on the uprights. I like how you were able to get the caliper mount integrated into the plate.

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PostPosted: August 11, 2017, 10:07 am 
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Thanks. We got lucky that the vw calipers clear the legacy wheel bearings. The caliper mount is cut about 1mm into the bracket to get the alignment correct.


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