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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: October 8, 2018, 11:14 pm 
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Very beautiful collector. :shock: And how long is the channel turned out? (from the flange to the point of convergence of the channels)

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PostPosted: October 10, 2018, 7:56 am 
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marafonets wrote:
Very beautiful collector. :shock: And how long is the channel turned out? (from the flange to the point of convergence of the channels)


about 130mm from the convergence to the outlet and the merge bullet tip is about 60mm from the outlet. The merge collector is from Cone Engineering http://www.coneeng.com/collectors.html


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PostPosted: October 10, 2018, 10:08 am 
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I apologize for incorrectly formulated the question. I meant the length of the cylinder head flange to the place where all 4 pipes converge into one.

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PostPosted: October 10, 2018, 10:29 am 
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marafonets wrote:
I apologize for incorrectly formulated the question. I meant the length of the cylinder head flange to the place where all 4 pipes converge into one.


primary pipes are 24" long and 1.75" in diameter.


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PostPosted: October 10, 2018, 10:34 am 
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wow, Did you use formulas to calculate the length?

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PostPosted: October 10, 2018, 11:03 am 
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There are a couple online calculators that I found that are based purely on displacement, primary size and max rpm. I don't have the cam profile so it's more of a back of the envelope guess comparing it to what is on the market for mk3 Focus headers. 1.625" primaries may have been a better choice to not push the power band too high but we'll see where these end up and see if any drastic changes need to be made.

here is a good link: http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculating-header-design.185/


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PostPosted: October 19, 2018, 9:38 pm 
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Driveshaft! Thanks to the nice folks at Moxley's in Street, MD for putting this together for me.

Slip Joint: PTI 2603-22
7260 U Joint
Weld yoke: PTI 2651-60
Weld yoke: Neapco N2-28-277
1310 U Joint
Flange Yoke: PTI 3102-192

Attachment:
driveshaft.jpg
driveshaft.jpg [ 981.15 KiB | Viewed 1218 times ]


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PostPosted: November 18, 2018, 8:04 pm 
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Location: Delaware
For my continued procrastination on pulling the engine and trans to complete the chassis fitment mods I've been making progress on some other items. First I've been cleaning up the engine wiring harness and double checking that the ford racing loom I bought will work the first time. A couple observations: the loom that shipped with the NA ecu was still wired for the ecoboost but they share most pins with the ecoboost having a couple extra circuits that I'll probably remove after things are up and running, ford wiring manuals are cheap ($12 on ebay), the Lear connector catalog is easy to find but cross referenced poorly so I'll probably be leaving any intact harness the length it came in. All the work for me was pulling the automatic plug out of the harness and freeing the O2 sensor wiring so it can be relocated in the harness.

Attachment:
wiring clean up.jpg
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Also got around to making the lower radiator mount which is inspired by Randy's build. Not a lot of room for the nose cone, looks like I am going to have to raise it about 1/2" in to clear the radiator cap.

Attachment:
radiator lower mounts.jpg
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Attachment:
nose lower clearance.jpg
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Attachment:
nose upper clearance.jpg
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Here are the grommets I used for the Honda radiator.

Attachment:
radiator grommets.jpg
radiator grommets.jpg [ 1.19 MiB | Viewed 1071 times ]


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PostPosted: December 3, 2018, 11:02 am 
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Nice - I had to tilt mine back to get the clearance on the top. The intercooler is tilted in the same fashion to butt up against the rad. I think eventually I'll get a radiator made with the Civic dimensions but no cap, then just fill via the overflow tank.

That exhaust manifold is awesome looking!

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PostPosted: December 9, 2018, 10:11 am 
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RandyBMC wrote:
Nice - I had to tilt mine back to get the clearance on the top. The intercooler is tilted in the same fashion to butt up against the rad. I think eventually I'll get a radiator made with the Civic dimensions but no cap, then just fill via the overflow tank.

That exhaust manifold is awesome looking!


Thanks. For the clearance it's not a bad thing that I need to space the nose up. The engine I am using is tall enough that I need to do a scoop and I'll get a bit more room around the engine with the bonnet.


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PostPosted: December 9, 2018, 10:25 am 
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Got the ebrake sorted. Calipers are mk4 Golf as are the cables. I thought I had a subaru ebrake in my parts piles but I didn't. The handle is from a 04-05 SRT Neon. Only reason I ended with this one is that it looked like a flat mount and was cheap on ebay. Interesting note is that the neon handle has an auto adjuster. I found the adjuster good and bad. The bad part is, with the auto adjust spring, you need to balance the spring force between the handle and the calipers which might limit cable length and overall mounting options. The VW calipers have a plus in that they can use helper springs to return the piston completely. So I have a couple of those on order.

Handle is mounted on the side through some spacers into some weld nuts on the frame.
Attachment:
ebrake profile.jpg
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Attachment:
ebrake top view.jpg
ebrake top view.jpg [ 851.87 KiB | Viewed 761 times ]


The tubes are a similar method to how VW routes the cables in the golf.
Attachment:
ebrake rear tubes.jpg
ebrake rear tubes.jpg [ 913.21 KiB | Viewed 761 times ]



I made a small aluminum spacer to help center the rotors and tapped the subie hub for a set screw
Attachment:
ebrake rear rotor.jpg
ebrake rear rotor.jpg [ 874.9 KiB | Viewed 761 times ]


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PostPosted: December 9, 2018, 10:45 am 
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Nice fab.

Did you consider swapping sides to put the rear calipers at the front of the upright? This may have allowed you to use the cables without adding the tubing.

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PostPosted: December 9, 2018, 10:57 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Nice fab.

Did you consider swapping sides to put the rear calipers at the front of the upright? This may have allowed you to use the cables without adding the tubing.


I never really thought about it. The cable housing stops at the ends of the tubes and since VW runs through tube I just kind of went for it. I didn't want to have to shorten the cables and the run back and over the diff worked to get the length where I needed it and out of the way. The tubes can be removed if I need to.

Image


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PostPosted: December 9, 2018, 1:34 pm 
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Nice clean routing IMO.

MV8, my forward-mounting caliper was b-e-a-t-c-h to fit and get the ebrake functional. My donor's OEM setup interfered with the frame in that orientation. Part of the interference problems was driven by me not wanting to have the rear fenders wider than they needed to be. Therefore I made the axle length/upright location as compact as I was able to. I should have looked at mounting toward the rear like hfmaxi's. Instead, I took the hard route. I had rebuilt the ebrake br@ckets and mechanism inside and outside of the caliper and swapping internal pieces of the caliper left and right to get things to fit and work properly. My point is that there are lots of ways to skin the cat. hfmaxi's is not too bad a solution at all IMO.

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PostPosted: December 10, 2018, 9:24 am 
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HFmaxi
Yupper you get bonus points on the diff mounting design and fab work :cheers:

I had the same problem as Chuck did, with a sharp turn in the E-brake cable routing. I was trying to using 30yr old cables and calipers. No amount of lube was going to work.
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