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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 11, 2018, 11:26 am 
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Location: Delaware
davew wrote:
That is nice work :cheers:
What the wt difference, about half compare to stock?
Dave W


weight difference is unknown. I never really considered using the subaru upright. I had looked at how some others have used the subaru uprights and also how factory five is using them on the 818 and decided to use the Haynes design and adapt it to the subaru bearing. I didn't want the drums plus disk e-brake setup on the subarus. The VW disk is also smaller in diameter than the subaru rear disk.


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PostPosted: April 13, 2018, 9:36 am 
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Location: Delaware
Weight of rear upright plus bearing is 14.4lbs (will post stock weight soon)

A couple updates but not too much progress as I spent a good bit of time getting most of the subaru junk that I've collected over 10+ years of racing packed it up and sold it along with the rally car. Kinda bitter sweet but I've been thinking about not racing for a little while. Big reason is not having to take time away from the house. So now I'm back in build and parts collect mode. Picked up some pretty good looking 2005 Legacy axles off ebay for $35 each, the paint is still nice and green so I don't think they are the original to the car they came off. Also confirmed that the axle boots clear the uprights which I only knew by measurement before. Steering rack extensions have been shortened and rack placement is looking good enough to tack it in and move on to getting the diff and suspension in.


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PostPosted: April 19, 2018, 7:59 am 
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Location: Delaware
got my rear suspension all tacked in and mocked up. went way faster since the rear is all square. Axles I am using are from a 2005 Outback and look like they are going to work out. If I end up needing to reduce the rear track I can always swap them for 2001 outback axles which are about .5" shorter. I would have bought the 2001's in the first place but it was missed on my axle search, oh well. Tire in the pict is a 205/50r15 for reference. also looks like I need to use a 15/10" rear shock. need to take the seats out and get the pinion angle set before making up the mounts.


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PostPosted: May 13, 2018, 6:56 pm 
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Location: Delaware
Rear diff mount together and tacked in. made some spacers to center the bushings and added a couple small tubes to support the mounting brackets. brackets and bushings are the same 14mm through bolt wrx bushing that I used everywhere else on the suspension. front mount for the diff is going to utilize the stock mount cut down and hung off some threaded inserts and something else I haven't quite come up with to put them in double shear. Never mind the square tube on the diff bolts, I didn't have any hardware short enough to get everything tight.

plan once the diff mount is in is to finish up the boot area and then move on to getting the engine and trans in. atm i'm thinking about making my own fuel tank with a yet to be build diy metal brake and maybe an AL setup for the trusty Miller 130xp that has put a lot of time in on this build.


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diff rear mount 1.jpg
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diff rear mount 2.jpg
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PostPosted: May 18, 2018, 7:57 am 
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Location: Delaware
Diff front mount made up with that single shear I was talking about. Everything is where is should be but the mount didn't come out as straight and square as I would have liked. You can sort of see the part that is mounted to the diff is turned a bit. Oh well, once it's in you can't see it.


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PostPosted: May 31, 2018, 9:32 am 
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Location: Delaware
Getting the boot fitted for welding. added that caterham drop to the top. realized that I need to turn my table around 180deg to get the engine lift underneath.


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PostPosted: May 31, 2018, 10:36 am 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Your build is looking very nice.

I too plan to add the Caterham "drop" to my build. On a Caterham, it's actually a nice, subtle, 3D curve of the top rail if you look at the totality of it from front to back and side to side. However, yours looks to be straight as seen in profile (I believe) and it looks very good. Not having a tubing bender, I was debating if I wanted to find someone to bend it for me, or try doing it by hand with a conduit bender.

Maybe straight in profile is the way for me to go too? How did you bend the curves at the rear?

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: May 31, 2018, 10:47 am 
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You are correct, I just angled the tube down vs the nice large radius that caterham does. Besides the looks it's probably functional for any collected moisture going out the back as well. I bent the corners with a Woodward Fab branded SP Bend Kit https://www.tooltopia.com/woodward-fab-spbendkit.aspx think I paid $150 shipped. I had tried some sand filled bends around a wooden die but was having issues with them being uniform in radius throughout the bend and consistent across multiple pieces. The woodward tool seems to work well for what it is.


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PostPosted: May 31, 2018, 11:04 am 
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Thanks for that tool reference. I haven't actually seen it before. Too bad they included 1" square, but not 1" round. I have planned to use 3/4" round all along for the rear section, but having the ability to bend 1" round for projects would have been a very nice feature.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: June 15, 2018, 9:44 am 
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Location: Delaware
Put a modified oil pan baffle together. Not the best looking thing around but it should work. Scientific method used: copy what I could buy for the Focus ST. Engine can probably be replaced twice for the cost of a raceline sump even if it is so very very nice.


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PostPosted: June 30, 2018, 8:50 am 
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Location: Delaware
Working on getting the trans fit in the frame. I followed the haynes tunnel measurement and expected to have to modify it for fit. My approach is to notch and reinforce the tubes as needed. The tube by the bell housing will be relocated a couple inches back. Slave cylinder will probably need some clearance too so that's on order. I also cut a number of tabs off the tail shaft housing.


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bell housing.jpg
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almost.jpg
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reinforcement plat.jpg
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side clearance.jpg
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PostPosted: June 30, 2018, 6:47 pm 
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Location: Delaware
Got the ecoboost oil pan installed on the engine and test fit some other items. Oil pick up pict: top is CP9Z-6622-A for a normal focus, middle is CM5E-6622-A the stock, and bottom is EJ7Z-6622-A for the 2.0 ecoboost. The ecoboost pickup does not fit the 2.0 with the ecoboost pan as the pickup and pan interfere. It seems that the oil pump is different for the turbo and NA. The CP9Z pickup gives me 3mm at the lowest point between the pickup and oil pan so I went with that. Next I test fit the coolant elbow: looked good from the back but then on the exhaust side it presents todays challenge. Solution will most likely be cutting off the tube then tapping the part for an npt elbow with a barb.


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which oil pickup.jpg
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coolant elbow rear.jpg
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coolant elbow interferance.jpg
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PostPosted: June 30, 2018, 8:24 pm 
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Location: Delaware
That water bard is actually the water feed for the turbo.... time to block it off.


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PostPosted: July 8, 2018, 9:08 pm 
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more time with fitting the engine. i definitely made the choice to modify the frame after it's built to fit the engine/trans versus the build the tunnel around it route. so far so good I guess. The diagonal on the trans tunnel had to come out to get the engine 3/4" off center to match the differential.
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trans tunnel mods.jpg
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engine off center.jpg
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trans tunnel alignment.jpg
trans tunnel alignment.jpg [ 1.04 MiB | Viewed 628 times ]

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drive shaft length and angle profile.jpg
drive shaft length and angle profile.jpg [ 1.25 MiB | Viewed 628 times ]

I got the engine placed so that the slave cylinder bolts were still accessible but after sitting in the seat and shifting through the gears I felt it was a bit too far away.
Attachment:
slave clearance initial.jpg
slave clearance initial.jpg [ 984.21 KiB | Viewed 628 times ]


I had >20mm of safe clearance on the intake manifold so I moved the engine back and now the slave cylinder needs a bit more work done to make it fit. There's a diagonal in the way of the clutch fork too but I'm not going to do anything with it until the clutch is in and I can measure the throw required.
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intake clearance.jpg
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slave cut clearance.jpg
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slave cut clearance 2.jpg
slave cut clearance 2.jpg [ 909.81 KiB | Viewed 628 times ]

The ecoboost oil pan has a cut out for some reason. My plan is to make a reinforcing tube to go across under the engine. Maybe I'll even do a fancy elongated X and tie the open trans tunnel with the engine mounts.
Attachment:
sump clearance.jpg
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PostPosted: July 26, 2018, 10:06 pm 
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Location: Delaware
Made some engine mounts. I used Jaguar xke mounts like a lot of other folks use, still need to order the correct length M10 hardware to actually attach them to the block and hang the engine but it all fits like it should. Trans mount is next and working on sourcing a driveshaft, shops either don't want to deal with someone else making it before they balance it or it seems to cost more than I was expecting (almost $400).


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engine mount front.jpg
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engine mount drivers 1.jpg
engine mount drivers 1.jpg [ 1.24 MiB | Viewed 426 times ]
engine mount drivers 2.jpg
engine mount drivers 2.jpg [ 1.15 MiB | Viewed 426 times ]
engine mount pass 1.jpg
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engine mount pass 2.jpg
engine mount pass 2.jpg [ 1.38 MiB | Viewed 426 times ]
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