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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: July 6, 2016, 4:12 pm 
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Joined: March 2, 2016, 8:39 pm
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Location: SW Missouri
STranger 7 wrote:
Tell me it's just my failing eye sight,but... from the pictures posted it doesn't look like the mill scale has been removed from the tubes where they are welded/tacked together. just my eyes, right?
Ron


One rusty tube gets cleaned as I go, the rest gets cleaned just around the weld area.

It's all good.


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PostPosted: July 6, 2016, 4:18 pm 
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Location: SW Missouri
Found some time in the shop this morning, made a little progress.

Made some mounting plates for the rear hoop, and a gusset below.

Got the rear hoop squared and tacked in. That felt good!

One little step closer. Drawing out how I want my front hoop, then will cut that in.....


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PostPosted: July 6, 2016, 9:55 pm 
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Location: SW Missouri
Kept going and got the front hoop in.

Now I'm ready for a break in the house.


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PostPosted: July 17, 2016, 8:22 pm 
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Location: SW Missouri
Worked a bit on the rear of the chassis. Spent some time on mocking up the rest of the cage. Not sure on how I want to do the rear or top braces.

Any good ideas?


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PostPosted: July 17, 2016, 9:42 pm 
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Joined: December 7, 2012, 8:28 am
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For the roll cage supports you need to think about what is going in the space at the back. What rear end do you have or plan to use and how much space will that take. Is your fuel tank going back there if so where. Once you know some of the components it is easier to decide where the bars go. I would probably leave them until much later in the build. Get your diff, rear suspension and fuel tank etc laid out and then you can fit the bars easily around everything else. It's much easier then trying to fit everything else in around you bars.

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PostPosted: July 17, 2016, 10:36 pm 
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Location: SW Missouri
wrightcomputing wrote:
For the roll cage supports you need to think about what is going in the space at the back. What rear end do you have or plan to use and how much space will that take. Is your fuel tank going back there if so where. Once you know some of the components it is easier to decide where the bars go. I would probably leave them until much later in the build. Get your diff, rear suspension and fuel tank etc laid out and then you can fit the bars easily around everything else. It's much easier then trying to fit everything else in around you bars.


Great info, thank you.

I'll definitely leave the rear braces till later. I'm thinking of using a spare S2k diff I have. I can start the mount on that and go from there.


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PostPosted: July 18, 2016, 10:56 am 
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Location: Gainesville, Mo.
For ideas on the top braces, take a look at KB58's Midlana. Very nicely done!

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PostPosted: March 5, 2017, 7:49 am 
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Location: SW Missouri
Got a donor 1992 Miata home.

I'll be tearing it apart soon and getting a real start on the 7.

Looking forward to some fun in the shop


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PostPosted: July 26, 2017, 5:34 pm 
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Location: SW Missouri
I've worked on my shop this last week. Added two circuits.
One row of 6 outlets, added three LED floodlights, and added a
Dedicated 20 amp outlet for the 120volt welder.


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PostPosted: October 23, 2017, 4:27 pm 
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Location: Indiana
A little each week is good. Try to get one thing accomplished. I stopped and started too many times and lost efficiency and focus occasionally. Good luck!

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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
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http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356


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