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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 6, 2017, 9:23 pm 
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Joined: December 29, 2007, 10:41 pm
Posts: 826
Location: Vancouver, BC
I was going to ask, did you have to dodge any Lambos or Ferraris when bringing the motor in? Every time I've been to the Pac Rim for a drink (or walking by en route to Mahony and Sons) there seems to be a bunch of high end cars parked out front.

Rod


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PostPosted: February 23, 2017, 8:56 pm 
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Joined: February 12, 2017, 7:57 pm
Posts: 42
Lambos will be forgotten when this is within ear shot. Hope all is well.


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PostPosted: May 6, 2017, 1:29 am 
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Joined: July 4, 2016, 8:40 pm
Posts: 67
Hello fellows,
My apologies for the infrequent updates on the build, university has been keeping me extremely busy. Some progress has been done over the last 3 months. I have managed to complete my rear knuckles, all that is left is to get welded them up now. The dash is now finalized and in my "spare time" i made a spot for storage. I have ordered in the T56 Magnum transmission, and in the meantime i picked up the bellhousing, and noticed i have some clearance issues with the trans tunnel. While fiddling around with that, i also noticed that the engine mass is bending the Q-beam (McSorely's Chassis) since it rests on the G1 and G2 braces, which then pull down on the verticals, causing this issue to occur (my C beam in missing a section in the middle for the transmission to clear. Just to avoid this problem entirely, i have thought about welding in a 1/4 inch plate instead of the cardboard template on both sides of the chassis (seen in the picture), and then adding in a crossmember that i found from Speedway, which will attach to the aforementioned plates. I believe that this would spread the forces which the engine creates under load to the outside, increasing the "fulcrum," thus making this a more solid construction. I believe that the crossovers that the plates will be welded to should be sufficient in strength. What are your thoughts since feedback will we greatly appreciated. Thank you!


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File comment: Dash lighting is all wired up
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File comment: Crossmember
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PostPosted: May 6, 2017, 5:43 am 
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Joined: March 30, 2011, 7:18 am
Posts: 1201
Location: central Arkansas
Instead of welding in a web, how about running a 1-1/2 or 2" square crossmember under the engine instead? Then just drop ordinary mounts to it.

The weight of the engine would then sit directly on the bottom rails instead of twisting the frame.

For extra points, shift the tacked-in X braces on the sides a couple of inches forward to triangulate across the crossmember.


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PostPosted: May 6, 2017, 1:59 pm 
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Joined: July 4, 2016, 8:40 pm
Posts: 67
That sounds great on paper, however, as the picture shows I only have around 3/4 of an inch clearance from the bottom of the oil pan to the top of the bottom rails. So in your method, i am still going to have to bend the crossmember tube. Why are you reluctant with welding in the web? I would be assuming that it there will be less frame bending occurring since the outer most sides are triangulated and should be able to take some load without bending


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PostPosted: May 9, 2017, 11:25 am 
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Joined: March 30, 2011, 7:18 am
Posts: 1201
Location: central Arkansas
Running a straight crossmember underneath would give you more header room.

Also, I believe the U-shaped round tube header would flex slightly with bumps and engine torque; it's designed to weld in between the C-shaped rails of a conventional chassis. Any flex in the crossmember will also flex the webs.

It would still probably last for the lifetime of the car, it's just that I get this peculiar twitch about stress cracks.


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PostPosted: May 9, 2017, 6:04 pm 
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Joined: November 13, 2009, 9:31 pm
Posts: 90
Location: Connecticut
The Speedway cross member should work fine. It is used a lot in Hot Rods both big and small block.
I think your web idea should work fine, but 1/4" plate is overkill.
I'd use 1/8" and set it flush with either edge of the chassis tube so your weld attaches it to the 'face' of the tube, like your template is sitting.
Sending the engine reactions directly into the side structure of the chassis will let it carry to the front and rear suspensions without flexing the rest.

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PostPosted: July 5, 2017, 5:14 am 
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Joined: July 4, 2016, 8:40 pm
Posts: 67
My apologies for not being consistent with the postings. A few updates: chassis has been welded; getting the floors mounted; indexing the engine, transmission, and flywheel; moving on to fastening the brake lines and wiring harness.

Duratec7, I decided to stick with a 1/4 inch plate for webbing. It is a more solid constructing while holding in 600 pounds. I would be comfortable with a 3/16 plate, but that wasn't available at that time.

When I was carrying the chassis out of the apartment, i had to cut off the steering column mount/support and I ended up fabricating a bolt on version.

Some gussets were added in to strengthen the chassis and i am very happy with the outcome of the upgraded and reinforced front shock mounts.

Rear control arms have been welded up as well, now i am just waiting for the heim joints.

Any DIY recommendations for bending the body work, especially the long angles for the top and bottom rails?


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PostPosted: July 19, 2017, 12:34 pm 
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Joined: June 5, 2012, 10:42 am
Posts: 67
Location: Bristol Vermont
Do we get to see pictures of it in the freight elevator? I am curious just how tight it really was. :D


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PostPosted: August 14, 2017, 7:32 pm 
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Joined: August 8, 2014, 6:08 pm
Posts: 520
Location: Green Bay, WI
This is the craziest thing I've seen yet. WOW!. How in the world do you get away with any sort of grinding?. Tig welding can see. I have to hand it to you the logistics of getting all that stuff up to your condo isn't easy. Wheeling around 680lb engine through restaurants and such is really funny. I love this build. Nice job on all of this.

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My build : viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17160


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