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Hey Alex, Those side pieces are normally done in one piece. If you can’t I would overlap the front panel on top of the rear panel and rivet them with counter sinks on the vertical tube at the end of your foot well. That’s all going to boil down to personal preference. When you lay out your templates see what looks best. I left my front panels off for cooling. I like the way the Stalkers look so I took on a bit of that.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

For the possibility of future needs (never happened) and possibly for best use of the bare sheet aluminum panel, I made them as Steve mentioned. Forward piece overlaps the rearward piece. I didn't bother with countersinking though. Here is a picture of my car in that area. I felt it was fine aesthetically. YMMV. You are building your car.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Happy new year folks.
Here is an update with the latest progress.
All of the panels forward of the bulkhead have been fastened.
I have decided to bend the panels between the engine and cockpit sections and then trim them to keep the curvature similar to the scuttle and the cockpit sections.
The brake lines have been added and fastened and are all braided.
I am going to try to work on the cooling system next after getting some hoses and might delete the front sway-bar mounts. This may also require modifying the radiator. I haven't decided yet if I will be rewelding the radiator as I would like to keep it easily interchangeable. Some thinking might have to be done first.

Looks very nice.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Alex
You have a very nice clean build going there. Workmanship and build quality is awesome.
LOL, I'm still amazed at the view from your build room, I enjoy looking at the view just as much as your build!

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

I can just imagine the comments in the building across the street soon. "Why are there car headlights facing our office at eye level?"

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

Your attention to detail is incredible! And you have to have the best "workshop" ever! I think Boeing could take some lessons from you right now!

Thom

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Thom

Hello folks. Thank you all for the compliments.

Thom: I wouldn't want Boeing to hold me liable if they copied my methods in any way

So today the radiator got mounted(ish). Some rubber insulation in the form of strips will need to be added between the mount and the radiator itself. The lower outlet seems like it will work, but the upper one is a different story. I am going to try to order in a 90* upper hose and shorten down that inlet, as well as re-roll it. As for the filler neck, I am thinking of cutting it off and tapping a thread into it so I could seal it off with a aluminum plug. Also, the way it is now and if I add a cap, it will make contact with the nose cone. The way I am proposing would enable me to easily burp it and all of these mods would not make me have to weld aluminum, making repairs simple when not having access to a welder at the track or elsewhere. The filler neck i would mount on top of the thermostat, making that slightly lower than the heater core.
Any suggestions on alternatives are welcomed.

Also, the fuel lines have now been routed and fastened in the rear section.

Lastly, I have started working on the grille, and have thought of making it out of 304 SS 1/4 inch brake line. The wall thickness is only 0.032 and i do have a tig welder but have thought about brazing it with Silicone Bronze. Any tips?

Alex

My heater core is also the high spot in the cooling system. I used a "Tee" fitting from a cooling flush system and just installed it in the hose to the heater. It makes life a lot easier when trying to get the last drop into the system. Note I did keep the rad cap. Without it you are going to have another high spot in the system that will take several hot - cold cycles to complete fill the system, even if you have a remote reservoir tank. That's not a problem as long as you burp the system several times. Davew

032 isn’t too bad. Do you have a foot pedal and some spare tube? Time to learn a skill. Practice runs my friend. Set a safe zone on the welder like 30 amps, so you’ll use only up to that. Use 1/16 tungsten it takes much less energy to run and use 1/16 wire.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

I am adding a mid 60's Corvette surge tank mounted to the firewall. I can place it higher than the coolant level in my motor and use it to fill/burp the system. Speedway Motors has one for $190. I purchased mine some time back on ebay from a gentleman that wanted to replace his due to a few "blemishes" as he was restoring his car.



Also, noticed the engine hoist in the background juxtaposed with the chandelier- quite a contrast!

Thom

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Thom

This weekend has encompassed some tedious jobs but necessary ones. The brake reservoir is now mounted. The grille is finished after hours of welding, grinding, filing, sanding, and more of the above The stanchions are made, and I sketched these in Solidworks originally to have cut on the waterjet, but then noticed I had a sheet of 0.080 aluminum that they fit on nicely. Essentially, I ended up cutting them out by hand and having to weld in some bars for mounting them.
I looked more at the cooling system and I lowered the heater core by making some new mounts.
The upper coolant hose will just not work so i will have to look at some other options. Possibly a hose with a tighter bend, rewelding the radiator, or hose kit from Spectre (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spectre- ... 00302.html). Any ideas? The picture with the hose gives a perspective on how little room there is.
davew: I don't think I will be running into that issue now, as I will be mounting an additional fill neck in lieu of the water neck (the yellow arrow). So the highest point will be there now. The filler neck on the radiator would not be necessary anymore and that is why I though of cutting it off and taping a new thread into it to possibly burp the top of the radiator as there might be an air pocket.
Tundra 7: I didn't have a foot pedal but 1/16 rod and 3/32 tungsten worked out for me at 15-20 amps.
BostonWill: The engine hoist is not only there for show, its my metal brake as well!
Alex

Looks like it worked out well. Turned out nice.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

That's all great work as usual, Alex.

I have this sort of silly thing going on in my brain with respect to who has the most tolerant Locost spouse or partner. We've seen some excellent examples with guys doing fiberglass work on the dining room table, motorcycles stored in the living room for the winter and so on. However, if you have a partner, Alex, he or she is definitely on the top of my list. I mean doing your whole build in the living room of a beautiful high rise has got to be the best example of domestic tolerance so far.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

I'd be willing to bet there is zero chance Alex is married Lonnie. Any takers? Other than Alex, you can't play this game cause that would be cheating.

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Trochu Motor League