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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: December 3, 2016, 7:51 pm 
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Joined: July 4, 2016, 8:40 pm
Posts: 78
Hey Dismantalus,
I am really thankful for your help and thorough explanation. What you have offered sounds the most reasonable and most necessary for this build. I will be going with a CWI and a boiler welder. My father in law kept on pressing me to get the thing x-rayed but after both of us reading your post we have decided to go the way that you have recommended to. Thank you very much again.
Alex


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PostPosted: December 3, 2016, 8:09 pm 
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Joined: February 9, 2016, 8:46 am
Posts: 392
Location: New Jersey
No problem Alex. It's what makes this forum better than most. I hate to see people spend money on something that gives minimal or no return for the money spent.

Build on!

Eric.

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Dismantalus, Fabricatus, Assemblus.....
Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!


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PostPosted: December 4, 2016, 3:04 am 
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Joined: July 4, 2016, 8:40 pm
Posts: 78
Hello again guys,
I have been sitting inspecting the car and just going over some measurement of the frame this evening and ran into a dilemma. I am not sure on where to make my 40 pounds of dead weight, which is the optima... Could you guys come up with some suggestions? Below are 3 pictures where i have "found" space to place it. The picture where the bater is in front of the scuttle would elevate the vehicles center of gravity... The picture with the battery in the passenger footwell takes away the space and is a bit hard for me to fit in it (and hides the billet aluminum battery tray). And the picture with the battery in the back hides the billet aluminum again... The picture below is the battery tray that i have decided to use.
Suggestions please???
Alex


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PostPosted: December 4, 2016, 3:15 am 
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Joined: April 19, 2012, 9:43 pm
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Location: Colorado
I like next to the fuel tank. Low, to the back, and to the passenger side, all of which helps weight distribution and center of gravity. Downside is longer cable to get power back up to the front.


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PostPosted: December 4, 2016, 5:18 am 
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Joined: December 24, 2007, 5:11 am
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Location: Seattle area
One of, if not the best, handling sporty cars in the '50s was the Alfa Giulietta. They located the battery exactly where yours is. I had a couple back in the day. Great autos.

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PostPosted: December 4, 2016, 5:21 am 
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Where would that be? In the trunk?
Alex


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PostPosted: December 4, 2016, 5:29 am 
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Location: Seattle area
Right rear corner. Just ahead of the tail light housing. Hard starting in cold temps that I always blamed on the long cable run.

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PostPosted: December 4, 2016, 5:33 am 
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Ahh now that is clear. I believe i have made my mind and i shall be putting the battery in the rear of the trunk. it makes the most sense after all. Thank you fellows for all of your help!

About the cold starts, that is very interesting. Never thought that the length of the cables would affect cold starting. Every foot of cable has a certain amount of resistance i know, but i was sure it couldnt have been that much. I do have 800 CCA so that should be plenty to turn the engine over.
Thank again guys for the help
Alex


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PostPosted: December 4, 2016, 11:33 am 
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Joined: April 15, 2014, 1:54 pm
Posts: 470
Use a welding lead for your long battery runs. It should flow a lot of amps.


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PostPosted: December 7, 2016, 9:03 am 
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Joined: July 4, 2016, 8:40 pm
Posts: 78
Hello hello,
I have switched over to do my wiring now and its coming along quite nicely. I am just needing to stock up on some more parts like the heater core and wiper motors, but otherwise I believe i have everything and i just need to find the time to do the work. The passenger side will be the place with all of the electronics, and the only nice place to put it was as you see it in the pictures below. The ecu and CD ignition box needs to be separated a bit, i am trying to do everything to eliminate noise. I need to find out the wire going to the coil and the alternator and put those wires as far away as possible. In Vancouver some snow has finally fallen on the ground, and my daily driver is on pilot sport cup 2's and i cannot get any metal from metal supermarkets to start to make my engine mounting surfaces. I don't have much else to update on otherwise. Until next time.
Alex


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PostPosted: December 7, 2016, 12:20 pm 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
That's a nice idea, stacking the EFI & Manifold in "engine position" to do the wiring. Man, it sure looks like there's a lot of it. It looks good, though.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: December 7, 2016, 3:16 pm 
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Joined: November 21, 2016, 4:33 am
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It is looking very impressive 8)


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PostPosted: December 9, 2016, 5:43 pm 
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I agree. Looking very impressive.

I've run a small,light dry cell battery in the cars that I've built. They weigh 13.5lbs. I've run SBC and LS engines and never had a problem. Dyna Batt is the name.


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PostPosted: December 10, 2016, 2:42 pm 
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Joined: February 8, 2014, 10:47 pm
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Location: Cornelius OR
Having the coil right next to electronics is not a good idea.

I would separate the ECM from both the MSD and the coil.

I have found it best to mount the coil on the motor.

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Honey anyone?


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PostPosted: December 11, 2016, 12:40 am 
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Joined: March 30, 2011, 7:18 am
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Location: central Arkansas
Bobber wrote:
Use a welding lead for your long battery runs. It should flow a lot of amps.


Any shop that can crimp hydraulic hoses can crimp the lugs onto the welding wire.

Don't run any other wiring alongside the battery cable. Particularly anything running to a computer.


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