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Well here is my build log. Like the title says Im working on a Haynes build with a Miata donor, which I dont have yet. So far have built a welding cart.For practice welding. Finished my table. And have started cutting and laying out the first pieces.

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John Jacobsen
Taylor, TX (near Austin)
Haynes frame Miata bits and pieces

Welcome to the "Gang", John. I'll be keeping an eye on your build as I'm also planning a modified Gibbs/Miata. Check out Chris (FieroReinke) Reinke's build If you haven't already. He's building the same thing, and is fast approaching completion!

viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15663

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Mike - Read my story at http://twinlakesseven.blogspot.com/

We also have a couple of members here who are doing a hurried reduction in their stash of Miata bits...

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.

Howdy, John and welcome!
Looks like a good start. Anything broken or fell off the welding cart? No? Good... You'll be fine...

Like Mike said, Fiero has a good build log going, similar to yours. There is also a lot of general knowledge about Miata powertrains in here as well as suspension wizards and even some real, bona-fide enga-neers.

Me? Welllll.... Somebody's gotta bring up the rear...

Looking forward to your progress. Keep us posted. (And don't fergit th' pictures!!!)


JD

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Made Jenga blocks.
And secured the frame in place.

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John Jacobsen
Taylor, TX (near Austin)
Haynes frame Miata bits and pieces

Hi! Hopefully I'm right behind you. I noticed you didn't create a sandwich with your build table. How did you connect to the metal studs? When I see them in HD they seem very flimsy. Based on my current "life" I expect a long build so don't want to start wrong. On the other hand would rather put money into steel and other cool parts instead of wood.

Diagonal tension wires with turnbuckles can "tune" a build table to a reasonably true flat. Retune as necessary.

I screwed the metal studs to the MDF and then shimmed that to the table frame. Maybe should have sandwiched it, not sure the metal studs did much to keep the MDF straight. Its straight now though.

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John Jacobsen
Taylor, TX (near Austin)
Haynes frame Miata bits and pieces

The turnbuckle idea should work if the top develops a warp. I may have to rethink the type wood I use. I'm in Florida on the coast so moisture in the air is a normal thing. MDF may not stand up. Exterior grade plywood with a finished side is something to consider.

I used turnbuckles and wire in some places on my table. I had lots of structure underneath it, so wasn't' worried about warping. I just wanted it true and flat.

If moisture is a concern with the MDF you could seal it right now with a water proofing treatment like Thompson Water Seal or similar. Even a good coat or two of outdoor white primer or paint would help a lot. You can always put some steel or aluminum angle iron underneath in strategic locations now while it's flat too, if you're worried about future bending or warping.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Thanks Lonnie. Good suggestions. Do you think there would be adverse effect when welding if the top is treated.

I charred my table a few times, and it warped a little. The good thing is, you really only need a flat table when you're laying out the bottom dozen tubes, and also the rear bulkhead (O tubes). A flat table is nice to have throughout the build, but once the basic structure is in place you can take your measurements/angles/sightings directly off the frame.

Not really. It would certainly stink if a tack weld or welding arc burned the coating, which it will on occasion. I had that happen a few times. But, you won't be doing a lot of finish welding near the MDF surface, so you should be OK - no significant welding contamination or anything like that.

Which reminds me, you can get cheap, but effective fire extinguishers at Home Depot or any similar home improvement store. I took the recommendation of my favorite welding reference book and put one at each door of my garage along with a big stick on sign (comes with the extinguishers) above each one. I haven't needed them yet yet, but it's wise to have them available.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Metal framing studs..... And use MDO it is sealed 3/4 plywood for concrete forms.

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Honey anyone?

I use a piece of copper flashing on a stick to keep the table from burning.