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Hey y'all, Jordan hear in Charlotte NC. Started my build In January, here's the run down so far; Stretched the 442e frame 4' in the drives compartment (I'm tall). Bottom frame rail is 1x2 11ga., nose section is a mix of 1x2 11 and 16 ga this added another 1" to the length, hence 942e. This is a hefty frame, but it must be for the v8 power and any vehicle of mine is going to leave pavement at some point. Ground clearance will be higher than an average locust. I'm kind of envisioning building something like a Pikes Peak hill climb car, toned down for the street.

Power will provided by Ford Motor Companies' 5.0 small block, Carbureted by a Holley 4bbl. Ford explorer 8.8 axel 4.11 gears trac-loc. I have these laying around, more on that later...

As far as the gear box goes, I want a top-loader, but they went and got high dollar. I may have to settle for a t-5 (yuck). The New process 435 I usually run just won't work in a locost.

For suspension, I'm going Mustang2, theres a big hotrod culture around here, and lots of aftermarket support/ adaptability.

Yo! Westside!
Thought I'd stop by and trashy up the place a bit...

That Ford "Five-Oh" is a good engine. Lotsa torque, good power. I'm lovin' mine. All three of 'em so far... Now that I've actually "built" a motor instead of stuffing a used one in there, I think we're gonna have some good times with it.

The T-5 isn't bad, really. It's no top loader, durability and overall strength wise, but it doesn't take arms like PopEye to shift it either.

Interesting idea, a "rally locost". No reason it can't be done and it ought to be a potent machine with light weight and the V8 power. Modifying the "usual" suspension design for the ground clearance and travel might take some re-design of the front end, but nothing you can't figure out. In the rear, it sounds like you're using an 8.8 stick axle from an Explorer. Is that right?

In the Slotus, everything in the front except the steering rack is aftermarket Mustang II parts. Modified the LCA's to have heim joints instead of bushings. Most of the other bits are just bolt-ons. You are correct, there's plenty of choices from the street rod community.

I'll be watching your progress, this should be an interesting build! Good luck with it!

Oh, by the way, before too much longer, somebody is gonna say, "Pictures, or it didn't happen!"


JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Welcome aboard, yes, I like pictures, lots of pictures

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Batchin' it tonight so did some work on the car. Going to try to run the ES150R tie rod with a 3/4 16 threaded coupling and jam nut as an upper ball joint for the mustang 2 spindle.



Made some brackets for the lower A arm to mount to the frame, I'm going to try mounting the lower A arm beneath the frame rail to gain ground clearance for the rest of the chassis, I haven't seen this done before so it may not be desirable. I'll give it a try the worst that can happen is I have to cut the whole thing apart again. The bushing is energy suspension 9.9111.

Jordan
Some sexy brackets
My guess is that you will be able to align your brackets, a hell of a lot easier mounting them on the under side of the rails. A straight shot with an alignment rod. Dave W

Thats right gonzoracer. A friend and I originally got this axle from the pull a part for his Jeep XJ, than realized the " Jeep thing" was bankrupting him, sold the Cherokee and moved on. So I've had the axle stashed the backyard for about three years. One thing I learned looking at dozens of Explorers in the junk yard; don't trust the codes on the door jamb, only trust the tag on the diff cover. This axle is over kill, but it has disc breaks, 4.11 gears, Track Loc, and 31 spline axle shafts. I cut the factory brackets off with a torch a couple weeks ago. One problem I've found is that the pinion flange is off-set from center about three inches to the passenger side.

Jordan,
I'm Likin' Your Build. It's important to fit and be comfortable. With the offset axle just offset the engine to the passenger side. The 4.11 gears might be a little too much. I would think a close ratio gear set in the transmission would make it drive a lot better. The close ratio toploaders have a 2.32 first gear. That might be a good choice. How tall a tire do you plan on running?

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Jim Zag

Thanks for the encouragement guys! Been staying out in the garage way to late the last couple nights working on this thing, but I'm loving it!



I haven't nailed down what transmission I'm going to use yet, searching Cl and the auto fair is coming up soon, I may find a deal. If I have to set up different gears Westside Garage has the technology.

Just finished my first A arm, in 12 years of welding this is the first one I've designed and build from scratch. I mocked up the lower control arm brackets beneath the frame rail and it wouldn't work because the steering arms would be at to steep an angle. It is my understanding the lower A arm and steering arm must be close to parallel as possible. So I made new brackets and positioned them on the side of the frame. This puts the pivot axis of the lower A arm at a 15degree angle to the centerline of the frame. I know this isn't ideal but lots of cars have there lower control arms at weird angles. Also neighbors seem concerned that I'm looking under their cars. More pics to come.

Tubing is .090 HREW, Mopar threaded ball joint from speedway.

Welding done with my little Miller MaxStar 150 inverter, lift arc no pedal.

My thought on the T5 is that before it breaks from torque your rear tires will probably be lit up. Unless you're using wrinkle walls? Especially with a 4:10!! I'm wondering if you'll ever use those first 2 gears?

From what I hear, fast shift slamming the "stop" at the end of the throw is the other issue?

Did Ford go thru their "Non World Class" versus "World Class" thing like the GM/Camaro guys did?

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.

I'm going to have to do some homework here. My automotive hobby background has mostly been with trucks, Jeeps, and GM muscle. I tend to dodge anything made after the '70s. I'm making this up as I go along, and I'm learning a lot. It's very likely I will end up using a T-5.

As far as the world class thing goes I know there's a difference between T-5's behind a 4 or 6 cylinder and the ones behind a v8. I say that from personal experience because everyone snatches up v8 t-5s from the junkyard and leaves the others.

Now on line I read the difference has to do with the bearings used on the gear shafts, I've also read there is no difference at all. I have to do more homework before I spend money on a questionable transmission. I'll pick peoples brains and stare blankly at gear boxes set on cardboard at the Auto Fair at Charlotte Motor Speedway in a couple weeks.

The 4 cylinder T5's from Ford have a really low first gear, I think something like 4.13:1, so not really ideal for a sports car. I did find a chart at one time, might have been posted in here somewhere, that compared the various T5 versions that came in Fords, and the later V6 ones were basically the same torque ratings and gear ratios as the world class versions. I remember thinking that it would be useful to remember that tidbit because it might be an easier find in a junkyard.
Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172

This may help in identifying usable T-5 transmissions. It is an article from British V-8.

http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Borg- ... D-Tags.htm

Red

That will help a lot, thanks! I like the names of the cars in other countries; 'Panther Solo" ha what a ridiculous name for a car!

The Camaro T5 has the same flange bolt pattern as the Ford, but I think that the difference is in the shaft length / pilot bearing area (maybe 5 mm difference between Chevy and Ford?). The nice part is that the tail stock puts the thing 2" rearward versus the Mustang, about where your steering wheel will be -- so no extender necessary. As you can see, the Camaro people also tilted the thing, probably for space concerns.

The T5 is a lot lighter than the T6, a lot smaller, and probably considering all of the compromises, a good choice unless you're running a drag car or really intending on slamming the shifts?

Here is a pic of a Camaro 60-degree V6 bell -- notice the Ford bolt pattern? Or so I'm told it's a Ford bolt pattern.

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.

Hey guys, don't count me out yet. I haven't got much done fabrication wise, long story short, it got warm out. So that means I'm doin' stuff. Still searching for a transmission... of course I have to use a mustang T5, what was I thinking; top loader . The infamous 5.0 still has a cult fowling down here and I no about to spend more than 200 buck on a stinking' 20 year old transmission. There are concerns about wheel travel, gearing, tire size, just what the heck am I doing here.. any way pics; My little V8, but still a V8, 5.0 out of a 86 cougar xr7, seventies truck heads, not really hot stuff but hey its what I've got sitting around. The good; I've rebuilt it.. .030 bore .010/010 crank, new pistons rings bearings, and its BALANCED!! I did all this several years back when the auto hoby was still kind of cheap. The bad; It's been sitting for like ten years, I'm thinking about tearing it down greasing up everything, porting the heads,(for what its worth). Oh yah, there no cam and all the tin has vanished.

To better understand west side garage; the shop truck helping out the forest service with other volunteers. Keeping the trails open at Uwharrie.

S-10 T-5 I Know it won't work behind my ford, but i never real trust anything before i've torn it to bits. Returned it to my favorite little junkyard in rock hill, said it was broken, and it was the firts gear roller bearings were obliterated and it was half full of water. But anyway it think its a respectable little tranny, but good god don't pry on the gears they'er brittle.