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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: October 30, 2017, 10:06 pm 
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Joined: January 11, 2017, 11:06 pm
Posts: 74
Not a programmer, but still hoping I can get some use out of the book. The second looked like it would be useful given the frame pictured on the cover. :) But yeah, I know I already have fixed dimensions in the spindle geometry, but I'm confident I can compromise around any issues that come up. I mean so far, I'm pretty happy with it.


Cold day here, but I managed to finish up the control arms tonight:

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PostPosted: November 9, 2017, 12:36 am 
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Few minor things arrived.. New front hubs, and pads/rotors all around.
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Been fiddling quite a bit with the suspension and steering geometry. Found a good place to get a custom rack built, so I have been working on the steering geometry too. Not quite ready to start welding yet, but so far the numbers are encouraging. 5" of rack travel will get me a very nice turning circle (still need to decide on a steering ratio though). Getting 4 degrees of caster with plenty of adjustment plus/minus. With 1deg of static camber, I am getting the outside to be at 0* in a hard turn, and the inside wheel has 1-2* of -ve camber. I think I can live with that. Added a bit of anti-dive, but might put a little more. I also had to put the rack slightly back of the centerline between steering pickups on the spindles, but that has a nice side bonus of, amazingly, basically perfect ackerman. And essentially no bump steer. So if anyone asks, I meant to do that......
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Next step is to decide on wheel rates and spec out some shocks!


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PostPosted: November 9, 2017, 9:42 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
As light as your Seven will be you could easily reduce the anti-dive by half. Heavy sedans with soft springs and a heavy motor run that much anti-dive. Your typical Seven is sprang pretty stiff.
I'm running about 1.2* I would also kick up the caster, unless this is a track only car.
Most Seven's are set up with about 5/8 to 3/4" frame rake, which effectively reduces the caster.
Dave W


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PostPosted: November 9, 2017, 4:15 pm 
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Joined: January 11, 2017, 11:06 pm
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Hm, interesting. The book I linked above suggested the anti-dive angles should cross at the center of gravity. I thought that was excessive.. will do more research.

It will be a track-only car but I'm sure I can get more caster if need be. What's the reason for the frame rake? I hadn't factored that in at all.


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PostPosted: November 10, 2017, 9:02 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
The frame rake is typically used to as a way of adjusting wt transfer on the rear.
Being a track car, I would suggest that you look at running RU1&2 tubes horizontally Vs at an angle. That way you can mount the pandard rod lower. i.e. a lower roll center.
Also for a track car you may want to look at increasing your ackermann.
Dave W


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PostPosted: November 27, 2017, 11:32 pm 
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Joined: January 11, 2017, 11:06 pm
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Good advice, thanks. RUs are already welded in and to be honest I really like the look, so I will leave it as one of the few concessions to style.

Had a rough day at work today so decided to test fit my axle. Strongarmed the thing in there on my own. So far so good, I think. The trailing arms will be level with the car at ride height, I just didn't have any wood the correct thickness.

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You can also see how I figured out the panhard rod. The chassis-side mount will be on the opposite frame rail. Hopefully that LCA bolt stud doesn't hit the frame at full droop. Don't think it will, but need to check. If it does, I will put a hole through the panhard bracket so I can feed the bolt in through that side. It's fully boxed so I'd have no concerns. Also, I am just using standard nuts for test fits, don't want to wear out the nylocks.

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Really hoping to start on the front suspension soon. Though I may focus on getting the engine mounted first, because then I can get a driveshaft and build a tunnel for it.


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