LocostUSA.com

Time to decide.

Rod ends for the inside ends of the A arms or the Kugel Component parts?
Price is very similar.
The Kugel ends would have some compliance for street use and may last longer.

https://kugelkomponents.com/product/7510701-5-8-rh-multi-angle-adjuster-with-1-2-sleeve-plain-finish/

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If I must be a one-man PC free zone, so be it!

You can rotate the bolt pattern 9 degrees as shown on the left or if therte is not enough flange width, make the flange wider and bend the red plates as needed, with the flanges sticking up as ribs. Adjust the coilover mount as needed to clear the ribs. I also boxed the ends with 1/2 inch strips.

I prefer bushes for longevity.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

I have no complaints with the Rod End Supply LX from Kinetic. The ride was very nice IMO. Others also thought so. Those Kugel Components parts at $50 per, is WAY more expensive than the LX. Like $40 more expensive per. I could find better ways to spend the extra $640.00. Also 5/8" threads are bigger than needed for a 1400# car. Most here use the 1/2" rod ends. But hey, it is your vision, your build and your money. I see nothing wrong with them technically. Except, is the pivot screw 3/8"?

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I agree with Chuck on the rod ends. My suspension is rod ends and it isn't harsh. Steering is very "connected".

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

The 9º is built into the Alfa lower BJ so long as I keep the bottom edge of the casting flat to the lower plate.

Rod-end prices are all over the map, higher quality does seem to carry a higher price.
Several I looked at were @ $50.00 each +- in 5/8".
The Kugel joints are now $55.00 each in plain finish.

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If I must be a one-man PC free zone, so be it!

Began cutting some steel today.
Used cheap 1.0" tube as practice and mock-up.
Seems the lower plate can be one piece.
Upper has a minor complication as I need to put a shallow bend into it.
Outer end of the BJ mount is taller by .250".

Did some MIG practice, OK looking welds but not completely satisfactory for penetration.
I will try the TIG next.

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If I must be a one-man PC free zone, so be it!

If you are new to welding, focus on MIG first. 99% of my car is MIG.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

Not new to welding, just a bit intermittent, been doing a lot of Stick on heavy steel lately.
The suspension will be thinner than what I usually do too.
With the shut-down even buying steel is a PITA, so I've had to make 1.00"x1/8" from larger plate.
Ridiculous, but the only way to keep moving forward at the moment.

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If I must be a one-man PC free zone, so be it!

I have never used them, but Metalsdepot.com ships metal. I use Metal supermarkets in my area, it is a franchise so there might be one near you. SC isn't as locked down as other states though.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

Only needed $7.00 worth of steel.
Cannot buy locally.
Shipping cost too high for such a small amount.
Over $100.00 gets me free shipping.
Need to configure a larger order.

And practice TIG.

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If I must be a one-man PC free zone, so be it!