LocostUSA.com

As a side observation, I think that for these cars bigger isn't better - bigger is just heavier.
I've driven a single seater that was at roughly 1520 lbs with me in it and the thing didn't even have vented rotors, it was solid rotors all around that were small enough to fit under 13" wheels.
With reasonable amount of ventilation (which the locost should have no problem with) and an aggresive pad (I was on Hawk blues) the thing had more brakes than I managed to take advantage of and was no evidence of reduced performance due to heat.

Made me re-think going with the smallest miata front rotor (vented, off the 90-93) rather than adapting a solid rotor and take some extra weight off.

Moti

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Moti

My R1 powered Locost build log

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Yeah I agree. A lot has to do with proper master sizing to go with the piston size. Hawk Blue's are pretty aggresive pad's mind you but always want to have more then less brakes. The wheels being open to the air as they are on any open wheel/7 might actually be a disadvantage as the pad's will not be able to get up to operating temp especially on a cold day. I alway's drag the brakes the first lap that I go on track to try to get some heat in them.

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Deman Sr7 build turning laps once in a while

The e-brake seems to work fine, but I'll update you when I have wheels and tires on the car and it is half way down my driveway. My driveway has about a 15-20 degree slope to it.

Well, thats just crazy talk.

todays update from last nights work.

1. I removed the wiring harness from the car and tore it right apart. All the loom and electrical tape came off to expose a complete mess. The harness worked fine but there were so many issues with how it was put together I don't have time to list them all. I would have taken pics but the camera in my iphone seems to have $hit the bed. It might have something to do with me constantly dropping it on the floor.....or not. Anyway, I have made some headway in removing approx. 20 something wires from the harness. I have removed all relays and switches and tagged all the loose ends that I plan on reconnecting. Next step will be mounting all the switches, relays, and connectors and properly routing the wires to hook it all back up again.

2. Mitch installed the two upper tunnel covers using rivenuts. he also helped me with tagging loose ends on the harness.

I'll be chasing more wires tonite. Hopefully I will begin putting it all back together soon. And with fingers crossed everything will work and the engine will run.

We're talking about brake rotors, right?

Moti

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Moti

My R1 powered Locost build log

Visit the Blackbird Fabworx Facebook Page!

Yeah I don't like the way our wiring is but I'm too affraid to do anything about it lol.

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Deman Sr7 build turning laps once in a while

Well, we have been getting some work done on the car in the last couple of weeks since my last post. Still working on the wiring. We are making headway and I think the end is in sight. It sould be running again on Saturday and properly loomed and routed by Sunday.

I received my eBay Hayabusa shifter parts and started mocking up the shift cable and mounting brackets. From what we have accomplished I can see Moti's point on my thin paddle shifters. .125 is not good cut it. Plus the paddles are way too big. With them installed I couldn't get in or out of the car. I'm gonna cut up what I have and see what works before I draw up a new pattern and have it cut out of .250 aluminum.

I won't be touching the car again until saturday, I hope i can report that it is running again and that all is well.

I have a short list of things left to accomplish.

Clean, paint and mount exhaust pipe.
Install rims and tires. still waiting for the rims to arrive.
Mount all 4 fenders on the car.
Mount the hood. I may build a new hood out of aluminum. Mine is slightly deformed and damaged.
Finish the shifter. Modify/build new paddles.
Fill the diff with oil, install diff vent.
bleed the brakes.
Mount fire wall on scuttle.

This will get me test driving the car. I will need to add head lamps, stop & signal lamps minimum to get it registered.

Wiring is time consuming. Needless to say it isn't finished and today I'm at work training for a new position. Whoo Hoo !! Soon to be on 7 on and 7 off!!!!

What brand are your seats and where can they be purchased from?

they came with the kit. I believe they came from England. There are no markings on them.

Hi from Australia!

Can you please tell me what rear end assembly Deman supplies in their kits. It appears to be a complete assy from a production IRS with OEM uprights.

I have e-mailed Deman, but not received any reply; their kit looks the goods and from their web site & your build, it justifies attention.

Great work.

Kind regards

Brian

Hi,
Deman is no longer doing business in its original form. Dan had sold the rights to someone else and I haven't heard anything of them for a couple years. I did a bit of work for them and can fill in a few details. The rear end is from a lincoln. I can't recall the exact years. The front spindle is fron the same car and uses the sway bar attachment point at the upper ball joint and the rest was cut off.

Been awhile since I've been here. The car hit the back burner in the shop when spring came. LOL. Time flys when it's not raining. I changed positions at work in May. I'm now working a 7 and 7, 12hr shift. It's great!! But I always seem to be taking road trips and going places instead of working on my car.

I bought a Triumph Rocket III touring in June. I also bought a Kawasaki Ninja ZX7R a few days ago.

I've made a commitment to haul my Jeep down to Moab Utah next April. It needs a ton of work. So after hunting season I will be on that full time til it's done.

The rear diff is an 8.8" out of a Ford T-bird, same with the cv shafts, rear knuckles and hubs.

The front uprights are out of a T-bird as well. 91-93 I think.