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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: November 30, 2017, 5:26 pm 
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Joined: November 13, 2017, 7:35 pm
Posts: 47
Hey all, I figured that I would make my builders log since I got my shop mostly setup and will be starting on my build table and disassembling my donor car when I get back from Merced CA next Thursday. My love for the locost's started a few years ago when a co worker of my brothers built a book frame. Ever since then I have wanted to build my own. Now I have the space (kinda) and a wife that is allowing me to spend countless hours out in my "shop" I feel it is the right time to get started.

So far the plan is to pick up a T5 tranny (ratio and model unknown atm), adapt it to the 190hp 2.4L Volvo 5 cylinder engine and use as much of the running gear as possible off of the wagon. Hoping to get 300HP at the crank which is easy as pie to do as they are 190Hp stock at 5 pounds of boost. I plan to be running 20 psi out of a k24 turbo with a tuned factory ecu for now, with power being sent through a 04 s60 r clutch into the T5 tranny going back to the Volvo 3.31 ratio rear end with locker. Other engine mods will include Na cams which are good for a proven 10-20 hp depending on other mods, 3" intercooler piping (stock is 1.75), 3.5" turbo inlet piping, 3" throttle body (stock is 2.25). Hopefully the factory parts with a track width of 61.4" will be about right for my build, and if my little math I have done is right it should be. I plan on building all my A arms out of DOM and heim joints, as well as upgrading the brakes to the factory s60r brakes. As soon as I figure out an easy way to get pics off of my phone onto my laptop, I will add pics of the progress. The car will be used mostly for street use, with the occasional auto x day and maybe a couple of drag days.

Wish me luck as this is the biggest car adventure I have embarked on so far! Tips, tricks, and advice is all welcome.


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PostPosted: December 1, 2017, 8:33 am 
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We are Slotus!
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Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Yo, Loki-
Welcome to the gang! Glad you decided to check yourself in. (But you can never leave...)

Interesting plan, turbo Volvo 5-cyl and a T5. I'm sure it can be done, but I don't recall anyone in here doing it. *Standard Disclaimer* I ain't no enga-neer! However, I'd recommend NOT using duct tape as an adapter. Other'n that, you're on your own.

Send us some pictures when ya do something interesting and if ya have questions, ask! Some of the Smart Kids in here will surely help you out.

:cheers:
Peace, Love and Swedish 5-Bangers-
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: December 1, 2017, 11:18 am 
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Joined: November 13, 2017, 7:35 pm
Posts: 47
Snagged a couple pics of my work space. Its not much, but I think it will work. Got started on my build table last after work. Got the frame for it built. Next is build legs and the shelf under it. Found a pic of a Volvo 5 cylinder powered locost. if I remember correctly it was built in Sweden.


Attachments:
File comment: Volvo powered locost in Sweden
t5 locost.jpg
t5 locost.jpg [ 81.84 KiB | Viewed 3040 times ]
File comment: "shop" if we can call it that
File_000.jpeg
File_000.jpeg [ 191.87 KiB | Viewed 3040 times ]
File comment: frame for build table
File_000 (2).jpeg
File_000 (2).jpeg [ 174.52 KiB | Viewed 3040 times ]
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PostPosted: December 1, 2017, 4:03 pm 
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Joined: December 17, 2010, 1:24 pm
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Location: Gainesville, Mo.
GonzoRacer wrote:
Yo, Loki-
Glad you decided to check yourself in. (But you can never leave...)
Peace, Love and Swedish 5-Bangers-
JDK


Gonzo, please try not to scare off the newbies before the rest of us even get a chance to talk to him! :wink:

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PostPosted: December 1, 2017, 4:16 pm 
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We are Slotus!
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Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
ngpmike wrote:
Gonzo, please try not to scare off the newbies before the rest of us even get a chance to talk to him! :wink:
Who, ME???
Attachment:
predator.jpg
predator.jpg [ 76.09 KiB | Viewed 3019 times ]
Nahhh, I'd never scare anybody... :rofl:

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: December 1, 2017, 5:25 pm 
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Joined: June 15, 2010, 8:29 am
Posts: 553
Location: Duxbury, MA USA
Wasn't the 190 HP version low boost because they did not drop the compression ratio of the NA motor (165HP)?
What was the compression on the "R" vs the low boost motor?
We are an extended Volvo family. I also know of too many of the low boost motors with blown head gaskets although a Type R gasket should fix that.
All of that aside, I love the sound of half a V10!

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PostPosted: December 1, 2017, 6:28 pm 
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JPS Europa wrote:
Wasn't the 190 HP version low boost because they did not drop the compression ratio of the NA motor (165HP)?
What was the compression on the "R" vs the low boost motor?
We are an extended Volvo family. I also know of too many of the low boost motors with blown head gaskets although a Type R gasket should fix that.
All of that aside, I love the sound of half a V10!


From what I have found the compression ration on the "LPT" motor (2.4L xc and awd turbo) is around 9-1/9.5-1 with 5 pounds of boost, and with the higher boost motors (2.3L t5 and R) the CR is 8-1/8.5-1 and 10-12 pounds of boost. The only motors that I have heard that have problems are the 2.5L newer R motor. They tend to crack the cylinder liner.

My brothers daily is a 98 LPT awd v70 running 15 pounds of boost with all the mods I'm planning for my locost build and he keeps up with my 18 PSI 98 t5 with the exact same mods.


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PostPosted: December 1, 2017, 7:07 pm 
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Joined: February 9, 2016, 8:46 am
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ngpmike wrote:
GonzoRacer wrote:
Yo, Loki-
Glad you decided to check yourself in. (But you can never leave...)
Peace, Love and Swedish 5-Bangers-
JDK


Gonzo, please try not to scare off the newbies before the rest of us even get a chance to talk to him! :wink:

Mike, I think that anyone that has the Cajones to join this site, and start a build, already knows what they are getting into! I know I did. My kind of crowd!
Welcome aboard, Loki, you're in good company!

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Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!


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PostPosted: December 30, 2017, 11:51 am 
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man its been a while since I updated this! A lot has happened. Im just about at the end of my shop build. so far I have wired in 10 120v outlets, lights, a 220 outlet for the welder which is getting converted from flux core to shielded gas today. My 8' workbench has a shelf below it for storing bigger parts and my welder. It also has 2 shelves above it for storing smaller items like oil, grinding discs, cutoff wheels, etc. My toolbox is the bigger red harbor freight tool cart with the side stand. I don't have much room around the build table on the sides but I cant really expect much from a 12x18' work area. This is why I am building a cutting table that will be attached to the wall and will fold down out of the way when it isn't needed. All my steel will be stored above the work table suspended in a chain loop attached to the ceiling. Out in my car to install this weekend hopefully is a 8' long 220v baseboard heater that will be wired in. Hoping the baseboard heater will be able to keep the temp above 50 all winter long and will allow me to crank the temp up to 60is when I want to work in the shop. I will try to get some pics today or tomorrow. It feels good getting to be this close to being done. Wanting to get started on my actual build here in the next week or two.


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PostPosted: December 30, 2017, 6:40 pm 
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Joined: March 30, 2011, 7:18 am
Posts: 1556
Location: central Arkansas
Don't throw your flux core wire away. Where tubes meet at an acute angle, it's sometimes easier to use flux core than plain gas shielded wire.


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PostPosted: December 31, 2017, 12:07 pm 
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Joined: January 1, 2012, 12:44 pm
Posts: 407
Location: Boise, Idaho
Glad to see that you've been making rapid progress on your shop.
Sent you a pm.


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PostPosted: January 11, 2018, 12:52 pm 
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Joined: November 13, 2017, 7:35 pm
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Thanks for having me over seven13bt! it was nice to see a mostly completed chassis in person. Added to my confidence. Beyond my last post not much has been done. My parts cars are still sitting, and i actually acquired a better donor car (still Volvo) so now i have 2 cars to pull parts from. I acquired the pedal box out of a manual Volvo and also a custom tuned ecu that will work better than the one i have currently. As for the shop work, I picked up an 8' electric baseboard heater that should keep the shop comfortable during the winter, just need to wire it in. When I find a better way to resize and edit the pics I will add a few more.


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PostPosted: January 13, 2018, 12:05 pm 
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Joined: November 13, 2017, 7:35 pm
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Figured i would post my build page on Facebook here. Feel free to like, comment and share ideas on it!

https://www.facebook.com/T5locost/


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PostPosted: January 15, 2018, 10:29 am 
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Joined: November 13, 2017, 7:35 pm
Posts: 47
This weekend I should be picking up some steel! For the majority of the frame I am going to go with the standard 16ga 1". What I am thinking of doing is using a 1x1.5" 14ga turned up on edge for the bottom of the frame.


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PostPosted: January 16, 2018, 9:23 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
If you are worried about beaming loads in the chassis, you should actually design/fab the 1x1.5" sq tube as the top rail, which is under compression. [which will fail at a lower load] Typically the lower rail is under tension. The larger tubing on the bottom will require a pedestal for the rear lower control arm bracket if going with the standard inboard mounting. Davew


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