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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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 Post subject: Re: Rolvotus Se7en
PostPosted: October 30, 2017, 11:06 am 
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Joined: May 22, 2017, 7:36 am
Posts: 163
You know, I agree, I feel like I know people on here better than some of my family in England.

As long as you guys don't mind my daily babbling and photo updates, i would prefer to stay on here.

You guys rock :cheers:


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 Post subject: Re: Rolvotus Se7en
PostPosted: October 30, 2017, 11:34 am 
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Location: Gainesville, Mo.
With an off-roader like a Jeep, torque is really what you're after. How about a small diesel? A lot of people have been putting VW diesels in the Suzuki/Geo 4X4s with good result. Here are a couple of links you might find interesting.

http://www.acmeadapters.com/store_engine.php

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-x/32925-vw-diesel-engine-swap.html

Good Luck! :cheers:

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 Post subject: Re: Rolvotus Se7en
PostPosted: October 30, 2017, 11:51 am 
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ngpmike wrote:
With an off-roader like a Jeep, torque is really what you're after. How about a small diesel? A lot of people have been putting VW diesels in the Suzuki/Geo 4X4s with good result. Here are a couple of links you might find interesting.

http://www.acmeadapters.com/store_engine.php

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-x/32925-vw-diesel-engine-swap.html

Good Luck! :cheers:



Hmmm. Very interesting, thanks for the links. I was planning on using a B18 motor because I have 3 of them sat in the garage, and one is over-bored to a 2.0

My rational is that they used the B18/20 in the ww2 Valps and 6x6 trucks. Volvo C303 etc.

But I will definitely look into the options, thank you.


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 Post subject: Re: Rolvotus Se7en
PostPosted: October 31, 2017, 6:00 am 
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Joined: May 22, 2017, 7:36 am
Posts: 163
Did a little work on Rolvotus yesterday afternoon. Pulled the carb tops off and adjusted the floats, also found that the pump jet was leaking a tad, so tightened that up.

With that out of the way it was finally time to attack the ignition and timing, I replaced the complete distributor with a newer model, here is a pic of the older model, not at tdc:

Image

I'm still battling with cooling issues, especially the oil, i'm looking today to putting a larger oil cooler in and also a larger fan.

Ran the engine for a while, shut it down, then restarted then whoooosh!

Image

Dumped a radiators worth of coolant all over the drive.

Never mind :shock:

In See-Jay news, i've picked up a donor vehicle, another '59 CJ5, hopefully i'll make one good 'un out of the two.



One of those pre-packed Pasta 'Voila' garlic chicken things. - i'm getting lazy again.



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 Post subject: Re: Rolvotus Se7en
PostPosted: October 31, 2017, 8:41 am 
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Joined: January 1, 2012, 12:44 pm
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Location: Boise, Idaho
Have you put a new thermostat in it? It's a dual stage unit, so if there's none in it or if either stage isn't functioning you get whoooosh.


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 Post subject: Re: Rolvotus Se7en
PostPosted: October 31, 2017, 8:56 am 
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seven13bt wrote:
Have you put a new thermostat in it? It's a dual stage unit, so if there's none in it or if either stage isn't functioning you get whoooosh.


In the engine? I have put a new 160f tstat in the engine. Dual stage? Could you explain that to me please. Late 70's 12a if that helps.


Oil cooler currently does not have a thermostat in it, it's a generic oil cooler. The one I intend to put in today is the thermostat kind.


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 Post subject: Re: Rolvotus Se7en
PostPosted: October 31, 2017, 9:25 am 
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Location: Boise, Idaho
Yes, the engine coolant thermostat. There's a bypass hole in the bottom of the casting where the thermostat goes. The t-stat body has an extension on it that covers the bypass when the engine warms up. For racing, the thermostat is removed and the bypass hole gets tapped for a pipe plug. Takes longer to warm up, but greater flow rate.


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 Post subject: Re: Rolvotus Se7en
PostPosted: October 31, 2017, 9:51 am 
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seven13bt wrote:
Yes, the engine coolant thermostat. There's a bypass hole in the bottom of the casting where the thermostat goes. The t-stat body has an extension on it that covers the bypass when the engine warms up. For racing, the thermostat is removed and the bypass hole gets tapped for a pipe plug. Takes longer to warm up, but greater flow rate.


Do you have any links or pics of this setup?


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 Post subject: Re: Rolvotus Se7en
PostPosted: October 31, 2017, 10:05 am 
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Joined: January 1, 2012, 12:44 pm
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Location: Boise, Idaho
I can scan a page from "How to modify your Mazda RX7" by Emanuel and Downing, if you'd like.


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 Post subject: Re: Rolvotus Se7en
PostPosted: October 31, 2017, 10:18 am 
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seven13bt wrote:
I can scan a page from "How to modify your Mazda RX7" by Emanuel and Downing, if you'd like.


If it's not too much trouble that would be great, please and thank you.


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 Post subject: Re: Rolvotus Se7en
PostPosted: October 31, 2017, 10:27 am 
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More $0.02:
Taking a look back at the radiator plumbing, it appears that you may not be able to purge all of the air from the upper portion. Maybe remove the hose clamp at the top tank and insert a small screw driver so that air can bleed out there when filling. Also, the water pump inlet hose needs a spring in it to keep it from collapsing.


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 Post subject: Re: Rolvotus Se7en
PostPosted: October 31, 2017, 10:53 am 
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I'll reiterate my recommendation to go with larger/more oil coolers.

The oil is where most heat is dumped by the Wankel, since it's what cools the inside of the rotors.
Maybe put a fan on the oil cooler you have?

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 Post subject: Re: Rolvotus Se7en
PostPosted: October 31, 2017, 10:58 am 
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Page regarding t-stat mod:


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 Post subject: Re: Rolvotus Se7en
PostPosted: October 31, 2017, 11:39 am 
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I wonder how that coolant bypass mod works for street driving?


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 Post subject: Re: Rolvotus Se7en
PostPosted: October 31, 2017, 11:54 am 
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It will take longer to warm-up, but you could put a generic single stage t-stat in to control engine temp. Are you going to have a thermo controlled fan? If so, you could try leaving out the coolant t-stat. I have the block-off plug and no t-stat, so I manually switch rad fan as needed. It takes 2-5 minutes to warm up so that it's drivable depending on if it's 75F or 35F, respectively.


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