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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 24, 2018, 6:25 pm 
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Location: Boise, Idaho
I had hoped to start the engine yesterday, but the fuel pump I had on hand worked once and then died. Got a new one late in the day, so it was installed this morning. After it wouldn't start, the problem was identified as low fuel pressure. My first thought was to order an inline Aeromotive unit and wait until Tuesday to proceed. That lasted about two minutes and I decided it was worth a try at putting a "pill" in the return line from the high pressure filter. After trying various restrictors that got it above and below the target 45 psi, a Weber 150 air corrector was just right.
It's snowing and 33F outside, but I just hooked up gutter drain tube to the exhaust and routed it outside, opened a window and a door, turned on some fans and put my painting mask on.
In the video, it's not Darth Vader in the car, it's me and the painting mask with black mechanics gloves on. :D

http://youtu.be/SdTZPtaAziY


Now I'll have to wait for some good weather (in a couple of weeks) to get it outside and do some tuning.


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PostPosted: February 24, 2018, 7:25 pm 
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Hooray! It's alive! Good going.

And you're not in the video I saw.

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PostPosted: February 26, 2018, 8:43 am 
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We are Slotus!
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Well done, Lord Vader! :mrgreen:

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: February 26, 2018, 10:35 am 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Yeah, the breathing makes the video, Darth. :mrgreen:

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: February 26, 2018, 3:28 pm 
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We are Slotus!
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Lonnie-S wrote:
Yeah, the breathing makes the video, Darth.
Proof that Lonnie has gone over to the "Dark Side"... Note that he and Lord Vader are on a first name basis!!!! :mrgreen:

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: February 27, 2018, 12:14 am 
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Such a fast build, it's inspirational! Awesome work sir


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PostPosted: February 27, 2018, 12:19 pm 
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Location: Cornholio OR "Where the magic happens"
Image

The radiator cap needs to be at the highest point in the cooling system so you can get all the air out of it.
A happy cooling system has no air in it.
A bleeder valve can be employed but they are not automatic.
A bleed line to a surge tank would be automatic.

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Yaaaaaaay! The profile link is fixed!


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PostPosted: February 27, 2018, 1:49 pm 
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Location: Boise, Idaho
Hey BW, thanks for keeping an eagle eye on our progress here.
The photo that you correctly analyzed was taken before the expansion tank had been delivered. It was installed before the initial startup. Here's a current pic of the expansion tank ('85 Vanagon). I may move it to the back of the engine.


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PostPosted: March 5, 2018, 6:39 pm 
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Progress has been made on the hydraulic systems. The clutch line was fabbed and the system bled. It works fine, but the pedal travel is longer than I like, so the MC may increase in diameter in the future. The brake MCs were installed and the lines run out to each corner. But, since I don't have calipers yet, that's all that will be done for now.
I assembled aluminum panels for the pedal box and decided that they will be bolt-in so that the clutch slave cylinder can be reached easily(?). Note the yellow circle in the pic highlighting it's hiding place.


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PostPosted: March 6, 2018, 1:03 pm 
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Location: SW Wes Consin
Thanks for the real world numbers for chassis stiffness. I've seen some pretty amazing numbers posted here but how they are arrived at wasn't posted.


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PostPosted: March 13, 2018, 8:27 am 
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The diff being used was previously installed in the Caterham with the stock (Datsun 510 station wagon) drum brakes. For this car, I want disc brakes. So, adapter plates were fabricated from 1/4" stock to mount the Wilwood Dynapro Single calipers that will be used. While the label says "single", they're actually an opposed two piston caliper.
Also added timing marks to the timing chain cover. It's recommended to double check the actual spark timing relative to what has been put into the controller's advance table. Using the factory Duratec timing tools, it was noted that the third tooth to the right of the gap on the stock timing wheel lines up with a prominent rib in the timing chain cover. So, that was marked as TDC and other marks were added for 10, 20 and 30 degrees BTDC. Engine running test confirms the table values, so no need to add any mechanical offset to the advance table. In the pic, the timing mark is at 20* BTDC.


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PostPosted: March 21, 2018, 12:25 pm 
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Just as A.Moore did with his Duratec oil pan, I removed the lower 1.5" and had a 1/8" plate tig welded in. Only one brake caliper arrived, so I was able to fab one of the caliper mounts. The other three are supposed to arrive tomorrow. (Thats OK, I have an engine to install.)
At the back of the chassis a 1/2" coupler was added and some additional triangulation so that this point can be used for the tie-down loop and as well as the rear jack point. The belly pan and diffuser panels aren't good surfaces to push on with the quick jack that I use, so a round-head 1/2" bolt goes into the coupler and becomes the point of contact for the jack.
It's finally time to put the car on the ground (I need the trailer to take the EMod car to an autoX in ten days). So hopefully that will happen with enough time left to prep the old car for some zoom-zoom. :D


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PostPosted: March 21, 2018, 6:51 pm 
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Always Moore!
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Location: Fort Worth, TX
Your aluminum welds look a lot prettier than mine! Nice work.

What is your plan for the oil pickup?

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PostPosted: March 21, 2018, 7:49 pm 
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Andrew,
First, I can't accept the credit for the tig welding. I worded it that I "had a 1/8" plate tig welded", meaning that I took it to my friend Jeremy who owns J and M Fabworks. I agree, he does nice work.
In answer to your question about oil pickup, I shortened the stock tube to give it 1/8" clearance above the bottom and added transverse dams to the windage tray, about 2" for and aft of the tube and put swinging gates in each one to trap oil near the tube under braking and acceleration.

Ron


Last edited by seven13bt on March 26, 2018, 6:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: March 26, 2018, 6:33 pm 
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The brake calipers have been installed and all the lines bled. The car was levitated with the engine hoist and the build table was removed from beneath the car. Then the wheels were put on and the car lowered onto the trailer. Today, the car was rolled off the trailer and onto dollies so that it can be rotated 90 degrees easily for efficient garage packing every evening.


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