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Nice work. How is the swaybar attached to the upper control arm? I've been wondering how to do the swaybars on mine. Your solution looks really good!

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

Randy,
The drop link attachment to the upper A-arm is to a threaded coupler that was welded to the clevis piece of the A-arm. I had to straddle the attachment nut for the clevis because that's the location dictated by the length of swaybar arm I'm going to start with.

Ron

Experimenting with adapter panels to place the clamshell fender where it needs to be. (this car has a wider track than the S3 chassis it was made for)

I think that looks better than the stock placement.

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Looks nice. I can envision that adapter panel extended to become a heat shield for the muffler. I was always leery about gawkers burning themselves right after I had good run.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Carguy123 and Chuck, thanks for the feedback and ideas.
Chuck, your idea is one that I used in an early version of the EMod car. The panel swept back from the end of the clamshell and flared out to the outer edge of the rear fender so that it also served as a cone guard.
I decided to proceed with the extended clamshell design ( I won't even show the other cardboard fiber alternative that was taped on briefly). I made the forward support struts from 1/2" steel tube and in conjunction with a lower strut from the bottom of the car up to the outer edge of the adapter panel at the front, vibrations are damped rather well (only track time will tell).
I hadn't thought about the heat protection or the cone protection from the clamshell to rear fender panel yet, but thanks to you Chuck, it's now on the TDL.

Ron

Nice solution. Keep posting.!

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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356

OK, more posting.
With all of the panels underneath fastened by bolts now instead of clecos, the springs/shocks and wheels/tires were installed and it was put on the ground, ride height set and taken out into the light of day.
The new fuel pressure regulator was adjusted (the weber jet restrictor was only temporary) and the engine was warmed up. I couldn't resist taking it up and down the street once.
Wahoo!

Nice.

15" wheels?

What's the tire made for?

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Honey anyone?

The wheels are 13 x 10 and the tires are formula atlantic fronts.

I dug out the remnants of the Cat rear fenders and stuck them together with some new aluminum and there are now some workable rear fenders on the car. After some glassing-in of the previously hacked out areas and some body filler they'll work for now.
A month ago, I made a mandrel for making louvers for the hood. The first product wasn't acceptable due to the amount of hammering that was done to shape the corners. Well, I revisited the plan and made a second mandrel to perform the corner shaping. Much better. So, a set has been made for the cold air inlet that will surround the air filter. There will be other sets inset into the hood ( and maybe some in the side panels) to exhaust the hot air from the rad.

Nice work on the louver form. What is your process for actually forming them?

That looks like pretty thick aluminum sheet. What gauge is it?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Lonnie,
The aluminum is 0.050 5052 H32.
Process:
1) Cut coupon to size.
2) Put a 45* bend, 1/4" in from one edge.
3) Clamp the piece into a jig with the bend at the base of the mandrel.
4) Bend the exposed material down against the mandrel with something stout that spans the entire length. I use a piece of 1/4" steel plate and a hammer.
5) Position the corner mandrel and whack it with the hammer to form the corner bends.
6) The leading edge of the piece is distorted at the corners, so file them for a straight leading edge.

Ron

One down, half a dozen to go.

Love your build and amaze at the speed this is coming together. Thanks for sharing how your getting those lovers done...

Watching you and Locofin go at it is motivating .e to pick up my build that I put aside these last few years.

Cheers
Fred