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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 18, 2018, 1:21 pm 
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Yes, a 13" wheel does fit. Note the first pic on Jan 11th post shows the 13" wheels mounted on the suspension.
EPS was one of my considerations when I decided to address the 4.25" scrub radius on the heavier car. The cost was about the same as the wheel/susp. components. The weight of the unit wasn't a problem, but it was the space required to locate it under the cowel that detracted from that option. It needed to be where the ECU and data logging unit are and they couldn't be relocated easily.


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PostPosted: January 18, 2018, 8:14 pm 
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Several steps of progress to share. More triangulation was added in the front and a major diagonal across the "passenger" area. Also, a dash frame, a steering column, a pedal assembly and a fabbed gas pedal.


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PostPosted: January 20, 2018, 10:54 pm 
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Well, I've put all of the structural bars in the frame that were in the plans, so it was time to torture the chassis to measure the torsional stiffness. The front of the car ( in the plane of the shock mounts) was clamped to the trailer and the rear was placed on a steel plate with a 3/8 diameter rod placed between the plate and the trailer so that the back of the chassis is free to rotate. Then with a 81 lb engine block hanging from a beam 57 inches away from the centerline, the deflection was measured from a different arm extending from the other side of the chassis. Loading and unloading was done three times to make sure the deflections were repeatable. After the number crunching, the torsional stiffness is 2830 ft-lb per degree. Not as good as the EMod car (3700), but it has a full cage. This will be acceptable since the wheel rates will be 190 to 200 lb/inch.


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PostPosted: January 21, 2018, 11:34 am 
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:cheers:

:yay:

Thanks for showing us that measurement! We've had a couple of threads by designers of kit cars and I've mentioned to them it's not hard to do this measurement. They usually drop off the forum pretty soon after that, too bad. You don't have to put thousands of foot pounds of force into a frame to measure it's springiness.

With a modest force like that you can probably test some modifications just by clamping a piece of stock to the frame to add a diagonal across the passenger seat or whatever else.

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PostPosted: January 21, 2018, 1:10 pm 
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That's very interesting.

As far as your setup goes:

1) Is the lower frame rail adjacent to the engine block sitting on the black steel piece(s)?

2) Are both sides of the front clamped down to the steel on the other side?

3) I take it you're constructing a right triangle on the left (driver's) side using the bottom leg as measured from the centerline to the center of the vertical axle and your vertical leg is the distance shown on the gauge?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: January 21, 2018, 2:14 pm 
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1) The frame rails are not sitting directly on the black steel frame of the trailer. There is a 3/8 steel rod directly on the trailer frame. On top of the 3/8 rod there is a 1/4 steel plate upon which the rear frame rails of the chassis rest (see pic).

2) Yes, both front corners are clamped to the trailer. But, there are 3/8 steel shims under the chassis to elevate it so that only the clamped points contact the trailer.

3) Correct.


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PostPosted: January 22, 2018, 11:44 pm 
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Looks like a plan!

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: January 23, 2018, 12:44 am 
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It would be informative to re-run the test after attaching the floor and other panels.


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PostPosted: January 23, 2018, 6:46 am 
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That's a good suggestion, TRX. I'll do that.


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PostPosted: January 27, 2018, 11:45 am 
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Well, most of the chassis is complete, so a coat of paint was applied and it's time for some wiring now.
I'll be using an Electromotive TEC-1, 4-cyl / twin-plug ECU that was previously on the rotary EMod car. It has hard-wired GM coils so a spark plug wire set for a Saturn SC2 was found with the right length and ends. As was done in the rotary application, the second tower of each coil is sent to ground.


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PostPosted: February 1, 2018, 7:16 am 
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The wiring is ongoing, but here's some of the progress. I still need to get a tach, a wideband gage, a datalogger with a sensor interface to add the accelerometers and a couple more indicator lights.


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PostPosted: February 1, 2018, 8:20 am 
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Looking good!
Making up the wiring harness (for me it was stripping the OEM harness that was everything not Locost) was one of the most relaxing part of the build. Stripping unwanted wiring, soldering shortened wiring, terminating connections, there's nothing better :cheers:
Then turning the key, listening to the engine crank, and fire up........wait for it.........priceless

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PostPosted: February 1, 2018, 10:35 am 
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I realize you have some prior experience with the data logging elements, but what did you use for guidance the first time you did it? In my case, I'm no where near actually wiring things up, or even selecting components. However, I'd like to make sure I leave space, and "infrastructure" to mount sensors, run wires, etc. Is there basic information on how to lay out a system, and what's needed somewhere?

The key concerns I have now is knowing what general arrangement of sensors I'll need, the specific locations where the sensors should go, and making sure there's a suitable place to mount and connect them.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: February 1, 2018, 11:55 am 
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Lonnie,
The first experience was just using the capability of the injection system we happened to be using at the time (Electromotive TEC2, late 90's). Since then the aftermarket capabilities have expanded substantially. In your case, (wanting to stay with OEM ECU) look in detail at the Moates QuarterHorse literature. I think it can log all of the engine sensors and ECU outputs. I don't know if it has optional analog inputs available for such things as accelerometers (just a 0-3 volt or a 0-5 volt signal depending on unit). A step beyond the factory ECU to consider is the Stinger Performance stuff for Ford. It's based on MS3 and is plug-and-play with the factory wiring harness. Has built-in SD card logging and has three optional analog inputs available.
So, the only additional space necessary is if you add your own accelerometers. The pic of the current datalogger in the EMod car shows the one square inch needed for it (the red circuit board from Spark Fun iirc). For reference the green connector bar is 2.25" long.
We won't touch the stuff that comes with digital dash/ECU's because you've already indicated that you want to use the Mustang instruments that you have.


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PostPosted: February 1, 2018, 2:52 pm 
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Thank you very much, Ron. I was expecting components to be much larger and more complicated. Just the info you supplied is a nice little mini-education. I'll take a look at the Moates QuarterHorse stuff and also the Stinger Performance products. I'm very much encouraged. It looks quite manageable.

Thanks again,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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