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Tundra 7
PostPosted: May 11, 2018, 11:11 pm 
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Location: Green Bay, WI
cheapracer wrote:
I had a look at the poly bush today, and it seems to have set to what i think is close to final, it is a little sticky still.

I put it in my little press just to get a feel for it's compliance, and to my surprised after a bit of initial resistance, the center bush slid through, and then I pulled it out mostly by hand, with vice grips helping a little.

I have seen an experience guy on Youtube do this, for which he then used Superglue to permenantly fix the bush to the outer housing. he mucked up with one and wasn't fast enough and it go stuck 3/4s the way in! So if i decide to do that I'll use 5 minute epoxy I think.

I think it would be best to use a square tube for the outer tube to avoid any chance of turning in the housing. I have also got to figure how to contain thrust now I know the center tube will slide.

So is this design supposed to act like a torsion trailer axle works?

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cheapracer
PostPosted: May 12, 2018, 2:43 pm 
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Tundra 7 wrote:

So is this design supposed to act like a torsion trailer axle works?[/quote]

No, just a bush with compliance.

I just mentioned the square outer tube for the sole purpose of not allowing the poly bush to turn as it might in a round housing.

Torsion trailer suspension requires both inner and outer tubes to be square (or other combo of shapes) that offer a dynamic reduction of area squeezing the bushing.


Last edited by cheapracer on May 13, 2018, 1:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Tundra 7
PostPosted: May 12, 2018, 4:53 pm 
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cheapracer wrote:
Tundra 7 wrote:

So is this design supposed to act like a torsion trailer axle works?


No, just a bush with compliance.

I just mentioned the square outer tube for the sole purpose of not allowing the poly bust to turn as it might in a round housing.

Torsion trailer suspension requires both inner and outer tubes to be square (or other combo of shapes) that offer a dynamic reduction of area squeezing the bushing.[/quote]
Ah.... ok. Thanks

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cheapracer
PostPosted: May 15, 2018, 7:40 am 
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Last week while I was drawing up floors, tunnels, bulkheads etc I decided there was enough there to make a simple monocoque, so I did.

Attachment:
mono.jpg


Turns out not to be as simple as I might have hoped, and a big problem was losing almost 2" of footwell width, although I definitely learned a few tricks for future projects.

I did however retain the interlocking floor, crossmembers and tunnel for the current tube chassis and threw them together today for a result I am pleased with.

Attachment:
tunnel and floor 1.jpg


Attachment:
tunnel and floor 2.jpg


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Last edited by cheapracer on May 15, 2018, 7:53 am, edited 1 time in total.

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cheapracer
PostPosted: May 15, 2018, 7:50 am 
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Another shot.

Keen eyes will note the arm rest area is being attended to as well.


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TRX
PostPosted: May 15, 2018, 8:29 am 
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cheapracer wrote:
I decided there was enough there to make a simple monocoque


[confused] You mean a structural center tunnel? It's early this morning, and my brain has apparently set the snooze alarm and gone back to sleep.
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Tundra 7
PostPosted: May 15, 2018, 8:33 am 
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I was curious what kind of metal your using its shiny like galvanized.

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cheapracer
PostPosted: May 15, 2018, 9:00 am 
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TRX wrote:
You mean a structural center tunnel?


Semi structural.



Tundra 7 wrote:
I was curious what kind of metal your using its shiny like galvanized.


Yes it's gal, because it's simply cleaner to work with, and of course stays clean during the time it takes sorting out the design.
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cheapracer
PostPosted: May 15, 2018, 9:28 am 
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Maybe this helps.


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cheapracer
PostPosted: May 18, 2018, 12:46 am 
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After a long winded process to get the pickup into my name, I might be able to start removing some bits this weekend and continue on.

One item it has that's not wanted, is a great big heavy steering box, so after a few days research I have located this Chevy steering rack that comes in left and right hand drive versions.


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cheapracer
PostPosted: May 18, 2018, 6:47 am 
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This morning lasered and folded the inner rear armrest plates. They need a twist in them so need the aid of a couple of G-clamps to afix in place.

Attachment:
inner rear armrest panel.jpg


Today finally resolved the pickup licence transfered to my name.

...and what do you do with a perfectly good pickup that you got for free? Well you pull it apart of course.

Measured up the brake cylinder, and now will settle in at home with my new friend, the steering column, and get them both into 3D, and then where to fit them in the chassis of course.

Attachment:
steering column.jpg


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horchoha
PostPosted: May 18, 2018, 8:52 am 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
cheapracer wrote:
I have located this Chevy steering rack that comes in left and right hand drive versions.


Clean looking build :cheers:
What vehicles and years did the good looking chevy rack come from? It looks like a very easy rack to shorten if need be.

Build on!

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cheapracer
PostPosted: May 18, 2018, 9:28 am 
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A few hours later, and my brakes and steering are in 3D. Anyone who wants the 1990's Toyota Tacoma/Surf/4Runner 3D parts, just let me now. They are in Sketchup, but there are converters out there for other formats.

Attachment:
steering and brake.jpg




horchoha wrote:
What vehicles and years did the good looking Chevy rack come from?



Current Chevy N300 small people mover, sold in just about every country except America (but available in South America) :-) It's also China's largest selling vehicle under the GM Wuling brand.


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cheapracer
PostPosted: May 18, 2018, 11:42 am 
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My rough measurements while the components were in the Pickup were pretty close, I will have to change out the box lateral for a smaller round tube for better knee egress though. An easily done thing.


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cheapracer
PostPosted: May 20, 2018, 11:14 am 
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Sunday leisure job, rear axle out and into the computer.

Attachment:
diff out.jpg



As well as spending some time designing the steering and brake mountings ..

Attachment:
steer booster.jpg


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